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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Centrury trex 600 gasser conversion muffler and air intake
03-05-2013 02:47 AM  5 years agoPost 21
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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It's aligned. I don't think it's a matter of getting the clutch to raise up. It looks like the whole bell housing and pinion assembly needs to come down about 1mm. But the way the nut holds the bearing in place inside the bearing block, I don't see a way to lower the bell any.

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03-05-2013 02:58 AM  5 years agoPost 22
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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@ Harve28

Check your favorite blades for the root width. 600 grips have a 12mm spacing while 700 grips have a 14mm spacing. Most economical 690, 700 blades have a root of 14mm which will not fit. For example maverick blades. The higher end 700 blades like SABs 710s, have a root of 12mm which you can use on 600 grips.

Just check your blades and get 12mm roots. Some of the blades will come with bolt spacers as well

Jz

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03-05-2013 03:06 AM  5 years agoPost 23
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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@daytimer

Try to loosen all the screws that hold the clutch bearing block, motor sides and front. Remove the spark plug from the engine. Line up the engine as much as possible while slowly tightening the screws very little at a time. Pull on the pullstart to make sure everything is rotating smooth on the clutch bell. If its out of alignment it will be very noticeable when you pull the engine. It took me a while to get everything lined up on mine.

Jz

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03-05-2013 03:12 AM  5 years agoPost 24
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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Looking at the pic. Looks like you have enough clearance over the top of the frame and clutch bell but you need to push the clutch bell forward just a bit to clear that frame. Remove the two screws that hold the fan shroud to the frame and try to lineup everything else. If it does you may just need to elongate those two holes on the frame. I remember I had to that to one of my birds. Just don't remember if it was the Radikal or the conversion.

Jz

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03-05-2013 03:39 AM  5 years agoPost 25
Markus

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Montreal

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NHP blades have all 12mm roots.

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03-05-2013 04:19 AM  5 years agoPost 26
harve28

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phelps ky

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What about the Matt bottas rail blades 12mm or 14mm root? Thanks

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03-05-2013 01:17 PM  5 years agoPost 27
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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So I sent an email to Century to see what they say. They said to check the bearings in the clutchbell bearing block. They are fixed in position though, so I'm not sure what could be changed.

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03-05-2013 01:26 PM  5 years agoPost 28
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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Are you using the metal or plastic bearing holders?

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03-05-2013 01:30 PM  5 years agoPost 29
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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Plastic.

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03-05-2013 02:19 PM  5 years agoPost 30
frgy28

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Santa Clarita, Ca.

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So I sent an email to Century to see what they say. They said to check the bearings in the clutchbell bearing block. They are fixed in position though, so I'm not sure what could be changed.
When I put my HWC conversion together, I did notice the spacing you are referring to on your Heli about rubbing the frame... So when it was time to loctite the clutch bearings I alinged the bell so it would not rub... Don't over tighten the nut as it will pull the hub up into the frames... Just tighten to where you fell its gotten butt up onto the part. I would recommend you use the metal bracket due to the vibs this Gasser produce.

As mentions above, loosen the the clutch hub and engine so you can mate them as you align both together, the gently tighten the bolts to the clutch and engine...once bolted down, loosen one at a time and loctite each.

Hope this helps.... There are a few pics of my HWC Trex 600G Conversion in my gallery.

( excuse any Typos....via my cell )

Also, make sure your Frames are Squared... It will throw off your alignment. a buddy of mine didn't have his frames squared and had a similar problem with the clutch bell rubbing...

YES... YoU puLL stART ! ~~~~ NO... it's NoT a FREAKN' Nitro !

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03-05-2013 11:22 PM  5 years agoPost 31
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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Here are some pics of mine. Also just FYI, I couldn't get the clutch to align straight with the motor so I had to put 2.5mm washers between the bottom frame and the front mounting, (see pic).

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03-07-2013 05:52 PM  5 years agoPost 32
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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Thanks for the continued help. I am still chasing this.
RC - It looks like my clutch lines up ok. It's just that the clutch bell sits too high. Looking at your pinion gear, yours fully meshes with your main gear. if you look at my earlier pics, you can see mine sits about 1mm high and doesn't fully mesh top-to-bottom with the main gear.
with the engine removed, the bell housing still pushes against the frame and the pinion gear still sits a little high. I even had a second bearing block (also plastic) that I tried and it had the same problem. So I know it isn't the bearing block.
That narrows it down to the pinion gear or frame....

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03-07-2013 07:56 PM  5 years agoPost 33
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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I run the 30 clutch on my Rad 20, had to take off some of the frame near the bell so as to line up correct... It want hurt to take some off where you have the green line showing the area..Doesn't take much, then you will see your pinion make full contact...

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03-09-2013 12:22 PM  5 years agoPost 34
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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Well, I found the solution. Apparently, my donor 600 had a rough landing life. The hex bolts in the bearing block had a slight upward bend to them. Just enough that when the screws were tightened, the center would bow up and pull everything up.
Son of a biscuit!

If some rain holds off, I might get a chance to spool 'er up this weekend!

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03-09-2013 01:36 PM  5 years agoPost 35
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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WOW I crashed my 600's many times but never bent those!

Good find.

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03-11-2013 01:39 AM  5 years agoPost 36
rctrooper1

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Brownsville, Texas

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Wow! That's some damage! Glad you found the problem! keep us posted how it goes on your maiden flight!

Jz.

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03-11-2013 01:06 PM  5 years agoPost 37
daytimer

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Joliet, IL.

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Century was glad I found that too! They were scratching their heads.
However, my trials and tribulations continue...
I ordered a 2nd spacer for the muffler. There is too much space to make up to tighten it down and "adjust" the muffler. I don't quite want to spend the $ yet for a tuned pipe for it, so i am going to see what I can do with a second spacer and gaskets.
I also found a problem with the receiver. AR7100. When I am at full negative pitch, full left elevator and full back elevator, the elevator servo will jump back and forth. I changed outputs and the problem followed the output of the rx, not the servo. the servos were not binding on anything. So, that's another rx on order....
This is turning into the project of projects! But, I am really interested to see how the gas engine runs. Since I'm not a stick banger, it should give me some long smooth flights.
The weather is getting nice, so it's close to time to finish projects and get out and fly!

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03-11-2013 07:22 PM  5 years agoPost 38
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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Stick with it, once in the air the pain to get it there is forgotten.

Don't use any exhaust gaskets, seal with Permatex Ultra Black RTV. It will seal better, allows for better heat transfer & less gasket compression so bolts don't come loose as easily.

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03-13-2013 09:45 PM  5 years agoPost 39
Chappy69

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Cedar Rapids, Iowa USA

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CONVERSTION
man I just reading threw the posts and this seems like allot of work, whats the price diff from just buying a Gasser vs converting??? I was thinking of converting my other 700n but I not so sure now.. I have 2 GSR260's other than longer flight time and size of the 800 size machine I prefer the smoothness and quietness of my 700e. I hope its worth it at the end.

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03-13-2013 10:50 PM  5 years agoPost 40
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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The conversions are not difficult. Bent doner parts made this one harder than usual.

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