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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › PLS HELP: Burning Plugs on O.S. Hyper .50 SX-H
02-19-2013 03:36 AM  5 years agoPost 1
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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Hey Everyone,

I recently "dusted off" my old Align 600 Nitro and am having issues burning out glow plugs. I burned out a glow plug after one tank yesterday and burned out another one today after 1 1/2 tanks. I'm out of plugs. I was using 0.S. #8s, but I have Enya #3s coming soon via mail...

It's an O.S. Hyper .50 SX-H running 30% nitro with a Carb Smart and a Multi-Gov. If I remember correctly, the Carb Smart linkage is adjusted to enable ~3/4 - 1 1/4 turns on the fuel mixture.

The heli was running with good power, plenty of smoke and temps *seemed* good after flying. Both glow plugs had their filaments broken and the wire looked very white. This indicates LEAN, correct?

Heli has pretty new fuel lines and rear bearing was replaced less than one gallon ago. Total gallons through heli is ~4.

Can you please give me advice on how to address this issue? Could it be fuel that is too old? The fuel was perhaps ~2 years old. It was stored with cap on, but the gallon was less than half full.

I did just buy a new gallon and plan on using that next flights when I have new plugs.

TIA for your advice/suggestions!

Pete

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02-19-2013 05:46 AM  5 years agoPost 2
nabi

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Holmdel, NJ (central)

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You're going lean
Check your fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel tank leaks, fuel tank lines and pick ups. Usual suspect is an elongated fuel line pick up.

How was the fuel stored, was it new or used ?

Could be bad motor bearings too ...

______________
Stratus/YS91
Goblin 700 Nitro/YS96/Hatori/Xpert R2's/Vbar Neo/VControl Touch

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02-19-2013 05:52 AM  5 years agoPost 3
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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You're going lean
Check your fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel tank leaks, fuel tank lines and pick ups. Usual suspect is an elongated fuel line pick up.

How was the fuel stored, was it new or used ?

Could be bad motor bearings too ...
Okay, I will check. Fuel lines are pretty new actually...I replaced all of them when I got it out of storage a couple months back. What is an elongated fuel line pickup?

Thank you!
Pete

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02-19-2013 06:03 AM  5 years agoPost 4
nabi

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Holmdel, NJ (central)

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New fuel lines that are cut just the right size Tend to elongate in nitro, so the fuel pickup hits the back of the fuel tank and restricts fuel flow causing lean conditions.

Also check the head bolts to make sure they are not loose.

Leaks around the carb or loose carb could also cause lean conditions.

If you have run lean already, your rear bearing, rings and liner or piston could already be shot also.

Best of luck ...

______________
Stratus/YS91
Goblin 700 Nitro/YS96/Hatori/Xpert R2's/Vbar Neo/VControl Touch

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02-19-2013 06:41 AM  5 years agoPost 5
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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New fuel lines that are cut just the right size Tend to elongate in nitro, so the fuel pickup hits the back of the fuel tank and restricts fuel flow causing lean conditions.

Also check the head bolts to make sure they are not loose.

Leaks around the carb or loose carb could also cause lean conditions.

If you have run lean already, your rear bearing, rings and liner or piston could already be shot also.

Best of luck ...
Okay, that makes sense! I'm using an O.S. bubbless clunk so I think it would not be prone to that.

I did just go through my fuel lines and turns out I didn't change out the clunk line fuel tubing on the main tank or header tank so I did just change them. I will check the engine bolts...

Hoping my glow plugs come in soon so I can get this thing out again to see if I fix the issue...

Pete

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02-19-2013 08:03 PM  5 years agoPost 6
datidun

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N Ireland

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If its not your plumbing i would check the sensor on the Carb smart,research shows they go faulty causing problems,how accurate is the Carb Smart gadget,is it clearly designed to tune an engine by temperature,is that a good thing or not so good thing

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02-20-2013 04:41 AM  5 years agoPost 7
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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If its not your plumbing i would check the sensor on the Carb smart,research shows they go faulty causing problems,how accurate is the Carb Smart gadget,is it clearly designed to tune an engine by temperature,is that a good thing or not so good thing
Yea, I was thinking about that. But I believe if the sensor fails, it defaults to the richest setting. I'll have to check that; you just pull the sensor from the board...

The rubber going into my main fuel tank seemed a bit too pliable to me so I went ahead and replaced it. LHS did not have just the rubber so I bought a new tank also (which wasn't too bad $-wise). Got my Enya#3 plugs today so hopefully I'll be able to fly a tank through it soon to see what happens... If I still have problems I guess it'll either be the engine or muffler...

I will report back!

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02-20-2013 05:58 AM  5 years agoPost 8
viperonenl

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Lelystad

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Hi,

Another option is imminent bearing failure, small metal parts will also kill glowplugs in no time.

Cheers,

Mick.

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02-20-2013 07:25 AM  5 years agoPost 9
lightningrc

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UK

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Yes if it's been standing then bearing can corrode in no time then break up on first use

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02-20-2013 07:28 AM  5 years agoPost 10
lightningrc

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UK

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Also as well when if I strip an engine I use a thin smear of thread lock under the head gasket which gives a perfect seal , also use it between muffler and engine , as a leak there will cause it to be lean also .

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02-20-2013 04:00 PM  5 years agoPost 11
lovespicyfood

rrApprentice

Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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Also as well when if I strip an engine I use a thin smear of thread lock under the head gasket which gives a perfect seal , also use it between muffler and engine , as a leak there will cause it to be lean also .
I thought about this. I did rebuild the motor not too many tanks ago with replacement stainless steel bearings. I did not use any type of "sealant" on the head or muffler.

Isn't loc-tite heat senstive so not apropo for this use?

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02-20-2013 04:02 PM  5 years agoPost 12
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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Thank you for all the replies!

I'm installing my new tank/lines today and I have a few extra glow plugs now. Hopefully I can fire it up locally (near an industrial area) and see how it does.

I'll check temps and pull the glow plug after to see where we are at. If this doesn't fix it, I guess the next step is to pull the motor...

Pete

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02-20-2013 04:27 PM  5 years agoPost 13
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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Lovespicyfood, I think changing the fuel tank lines will solve your plug problem. Anytime I had a problem with plugs burning up quickly like you had, it was always the fuel pick-up line that had a tear, hole or cut in it which caused the line to suck in air and the engine to go lean for short bursts. This is enough to cause the plug to fail yet doesn't always show up as a lean, as in poorly tuned, engine. If it was a bearing problem you should be able to hear that right away.

The silicone tubing used in fuel tanks is thin walled to be very flexible. The sharp edges of the fittings or fuel barb will often cut the tubing while installing it. So even if you just replaced it, check it again. I have gone to the black neoprene fuel line tubing like Hayes or Du-Bro for this reason. If it gets a cut it will break completely, so you know immediately there is a problem instead it it being a hidden and intermittent problem like with silicone tubing. Good luck.

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02-21-2013 06:32 PM  5 years agoPost 14
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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BUMMER!

Tried to start the motor today and I got nowhere. It wouldn't turnover at all. Then I tried to turnover the motor by hand by turning the starter wand attachment. I was able to turn over the motor easily...there was no compression!

I'm going to try to drop the motor tonight and see what kind of damage there is.

Pete

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02-21-2013 08:27 PM  5 years agoPost 15
lovespicyfood

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Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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WOW, it's bad. I'm surprised at how much rust there is on the crank too!

I think I'm done with nitro. I like it, but there are too many challenges with it. Between finding a place to fly because of the noise, dealing with the cleanup, the cost of nitro and challenges of maintaining a motor, I'm just not up to it.

Time to finally build that EFL 600 PRO!

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02-21-2013 09:05 PM  5 years agoPost 16
datidun

rrElite Veteran

N Ireland

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Absolutely nothing wrong with nitro,no offence but you did not look after that engine,i think thats the worst rust i have seen,using Stainless steel rear bearings,running it dry after you fly and using after run oil would have prevented that,it also helps to take off the back every now and again to check things out,basically its called planned preventative maintenance

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02-21-2013 09:22 PM  5 years agoPost 17
lightningrc

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UK

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He said in earlier post its not been used for awhile .
To be fair on him it's probably from the moisture in the air or flying in damp .

In the pic of top of piston is there bits missing ?
Prob the new bearing had started to break up then went through the piston .

Unless you use the model regular you will get the rust as shown unless you run dry as said then spin it over with afew drops of after run oil then put it away .

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02-21-2013 10:18 PM  5 years agoPost 18
lovespicyfood

rrApprentice

Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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Absolutely nothing wrong with nitro,no offence but you did not look after that engine,i think thats the worst rust i have seen,using Stainless steel rear bearings,running it dry after you fly and using after run oil would have prevented that,it also helps to take off the back every now and again to check things out,basically its called planned preventative maintenance
I do take a little offense to your post. I do not think I bashed nitro at all, I just stated that it was not a good fit for me.

As for preventative maintenance and such, I'm a pretty detail oriented heli owner, especially with the big stuff. The motor had stainless bearings and I did run it dry after every last flight. I even topped off the tank with fuel to expunge exhaust gasses and then emptied completely. The one thing I was not religious about was using after run oil. And this heli did sit for a couple years. My bad.

I really do love nitro, the smell and sound are pleasing to me. But I live in southern California and it's harder and harder to fly the big stuff, let alone the nitro that is certainly more noticeable. Having a "plug in and play" heli will just make more sense for me. I flew 12 packs the other day in my cul de sac on my 130X, MCPX BL and Nano.

I appreciate everyone's help!

Pete

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02-21-2013 10:23 PM  5 years agoPost 19
lovespicyfood

rrApprentice

Westlake Village, CA- U.S.A.

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He said in earlier post its not been used for awhile .
To be fair on him it's probably from the moisture in the air or flying in damp .

In the pic of top of piston is there bits missing ?
Prob the new bearing had started to break up then went through the piston .

Unless you use the model regular you will get the rust as shown unless you run dry as said then spin it over with afew drops of after run oil then put it away .
Yea, there's a chunk out of the top edge of the piston. I couldn't get my fan off so I've yet to break it down completely.

I remember some rust on the crank when I installed the stainless bearings quite some time ago, but it was certainly not this bad.

Oh well, it was a great heli to me and was my first start into the big helis!

Pete

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02-21-2013 10:57 PM  5 years agoPost 20
lightningrc

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UK

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Don't blame ur self I rebuilt one of my butties Rossi 57 and it was as rusty as that inside .
He flies it every weekend but its been do wet over here in the uk so we put it down to the amount of moisture in the air

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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › PLS HELP: Burning Plugs on O.S. Hyper .50 SX-H
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