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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › [SOLVED] - Engine Troubles
02-03-2013 05:52 PM  5 years agoPost 1
lewma

rrApprentice

San Diego, CA

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Guys

I'm hoping someone here can diagnose what's going on with my engine

New Bergen Intrepid EB with a BH Hanson G260PUH 3D Max engine. Stock air filter and Century Torpedo V5 muffler. Running 87 octane with 4oz Marine oil ( per hanson instructions ).

Both needles are set at 1 3/8 ( but I've probably tried all combinations betwen 1 1/4 and 1 1/2.

First flight of the day. 5 mins into the flight, engine RPMs begin to fluctuate, then progressively get worse. I land, test out the fuel plumbing, check needles etc. Now I can spool up fine, but at soon as I start to add collective and load the engine, the RPMs become very unstable and eventually starts to die.

I've ran the RC series of zenoah engines fine without trouble. this is the first hanson modified PUH that i've had.

Does anyone have any clues ??

thanks!
mark

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02-03-2013 06:23 PM  5 years agoPost 2
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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have you tried cleaning or using a new spark plug?

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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02-03-2013 06:41 PM  5 years agoPost 3
YSRRider

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usa

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air leak or something is stuck in the carb.

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02-03-2013 07:06 PM  5 years agoPost 4
lewma

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San Diego, CA

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I pulled the plug and attached a pic

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02-03-2013 07:55 PM  5 years agoPost 5
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Check to make sure your choke butterfly is Not Creeping shut -It's asking for either fuel or air.

Put a plastic washer from a piece of poly propylene - from a coffee lid " under the choke lever to add friction.

Pull the cover after one of these events and see where the lever is - if it is staying open

greyeagle

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02-03-2013 09:44 PM  5 years agoPost 6
geomecc

rrKey Veteran

Long Island ,NY

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use a zip tie or rubber band to hold the choke lever open if that does the trick then change the air filter to one without a choke. Ada racing makes a nice one for cheap. or my favorite is the k&n type from miniature aircraft which lets the engine breath like if there wasn't any filter. change ur needle settings at 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 on low and hi @ 1 1/2.

R I P Roman Jr. Team SKOOKUM SRW EFC

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02-03-2013 10:55 PM  5 years agoPost 7
lewma

rrApprentice

San Diego, CA

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I just dismantled the carb and saw this:

perhaps this is having an effect.

Thanks for the tips on the choke however I don't think that is the issue. The choke lever is stiff and does not appear to be moving at all.

Hopefully cleaning out the carb will yield better results.

mark

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02-03-2013 11:14 PM  5 years agoPost 8
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Is this a new or used engine?
I'm going to be in San Diego at the end of this months for a couple of weeks. If no luck by then you can bring it to me there and we can go out to the field and try it if you like and see what we can sort out.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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02-03-2013 11:30 PM  5 years agoPost 9
wrongler

rrProfessor

Brewerton, New York

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Some of that looks like metal

Bill Whittaker

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02-04-2013 12:13 AM  5 years agoPost 10
turboomni

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East of the Equator

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The clogged screen could certainly do it. I seem to have this happen once a season. All of a sudden you think you might have to start chasing needles and the heli is different rather suddenly. When this happens to me now I check all the plumbing and then the screen. I usually see that white film. Sometimes I can't see it unless I pull it out and shine light through it. I replace it and all is fine. It seems the white stuff is fuel tank plastic. Possibly from my old ceramic clunk rubbing in the bottom of the tank. I think this problem may have stopped since I went to the felt clunk. Do you use the porous rock type clunk?

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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02-04-2013 12:42 AM  5 years agoPost 11
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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A good carb cleaning may be the answer.

Check the vent line too, an engine will run good for a bit then lean out if the vent can't flow enough air. An easy test is it run a few inches of large fuel line straight up and see how it runs.

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02-04-2013 01:14 AM  5 years agoPost 12
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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+ clean out the carb...it may very well be starving your engine of fuel causing it to run a bit lean, plug seems (though hard to see the color of the ceramic) to also agree that you have a fuel starvation issue.,,it should be a bit more brown on the insulator (like milk chocolate and no build up).

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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02-04-2013 04:16 AM  5 years agoPost 13
lewma

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San Diego, CA

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thanks for all the help. I'm going to run it one lunchtime this week and see what happens. hopefully cleaning the carb is the trick.

Raja, this is a new engine, but thanks for the offer for when you're in SD. If I'm still having issues, I'll let you know!

mark

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02-04-2013 04:54 AM  5 years agoPost 14
turboomni

rrProfessor

East of the Equator

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replace or clean the screen and have a go ..if there are still problems try cleaning the whole carb.
The screen is there to protect the carb. It could have done it's job.

Setup is everything, All my heli's can fly far better than I can pilot them

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02-04-2013 05:25 AM  5 years agoPost 15
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Yeah I see the debris in the screen
But unless its completely blocked I don't think it will make much difference. The screen is there to prevent debris from entering small chambers in the carb and blocking them. As long as some fuel gets by the debris, the carb is good to go.

I've cleaned screens here and there, but honestly its never made a difference, just got a clean screen and that's it.

Can you post a video of what is happening? A picture is better than a 1000 words might be easier for me to diagnose.

FWIW set the low needle to 1 1/4 and the high needle to 1 5/8. Low needle is closer to the engine.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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02-04-2013 01:16 PM  5 years agoPost 16
Azalin

rrApprentice

Ankara-Turkey

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I have a similar problem with my G270RC. Power is very well in first 1 minute or so. After that it looses power and getting worse.

Helibug Trex 700 HB7-RC Gasser | TRM VX270TT | V-Bar silver line
Helibug Trex 600 HB6-RC7 Gasser

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02-04-2013 03:03 PM  5 years agoPost 17
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Power loss
I have a similar problem with my G270RC. Power is very well in first 1 minute or so. After that it looses power and getting worse.
That usually indicates a leak in the bearing. It happens when the motor case heats up and expands.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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02-04-2013 03:17 PM  5 years agoPost 18
Azalin

rrApprentice

Ankara-Turkey

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Hey Raja,

Do you mean the bearing on the top of the engine where the shaft comes out? Should I replace it?

Helibug Trex 700 HB7-RC Gasser | TRM VX270TT | V-Bar silver line
Helibug Trex 600 HB6-RC7 Gasser

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02-04-2013 03:24 PM  5 years agoPost 19
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Either
Yes either the top with the seal if its got one or 2 bearings there or the rear with the seal.

I would replace both sides if you're going to take it apart and put new seals in there.

what you take it out you can look and see if there is any leakage around the bearing as well.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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02-04-2013 03:41 PM  5 years agoPost 20
Azalin

rrApprentice

Ankara-Turkey

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aaarghh
Is there a way to be sure if there is a leak WITHOUT parting out the engine?

Helibug Trex 700 HB7-RC Gasser | TRM VX270TT | V-Bar silver line
Helibug Trex 600 HB6-RC7 Gasser

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