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02-01-2013 01:22 PM  5 years agoPost 1
BobOD

rrElite Veteran

New York- USA

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Just a little reminder as I imagine (hope ) many of you are getting your helis ready for the upcoming season.
I've seen this repeat time and time again where a heli goes up and suffers a loss of control. There could be many reasons but with servo draw going up and up and the increasing number of FBL setups and even the increasing main power, a lot seem to be from inadequate control supply.
So, here are some tips to ensure a safe and fun season:
1. Take guidance from a similar (exact if possible) setup of known good results. This is a good start but with so many new products can be impossible.
2. Determine the amp draw of all components at the voltage you will run and add them up. This can come from manufacturer specs or you should measure it. Typical and full lock current of servos.
3. Determine the amp capability of the source. Continuous and peak.
4. Determine the amp capability of all of the wiring, connectors etc. Continuous and peak.
5. Ensure all connectors and wiring are secure. No sharp edges, no chaffing, no wires flopping around bla bla bla. Basic stuff there.
6. Don't forget to set the failsafe.
7. This is the most important. Bench test. Cycle all servos at high speed and intermittently run all to full lock. Look for any ill signs. Loss of controllers, glitchy operation, hot components. If you find anything, it should not be considered airworthy. Check failsafe.
8. Second most important. If you experience an in-flight failure, it is not airworthy. Ground it until you find and correct the problem. Go over everything and do the bench test.

If you are copying or repeating an exact setup known to be well tested, 2, 3 and 4 are optional but the rest should be considered mandatory. Even if you are just replacing a wire, a complete bench test should be done. If in doubt, don't fly it. There's no excuse for losing control in flight. Keep that as yor belief and they'll be greatly reduced.

To be extra thorough, a flight recorder on the control is a nice to have to verify it's operating within limits.

Team POP Secret

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02-01-2013 02:07 PM  5 years agoPost 2
TomC

rrKey Veteran

Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia

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Looks like a good general checklist Bob. I'm going to print this out! Thanks.

Cheers,
TomC

Nqx,Mcpx-BL,300x,450x,500x,550x
Ion-x, 10s ,SS
TT X50E 10s, HC3-Sx

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02-01-2013 03:48 PM  5 years agoPost 3
GetToDaChopper

rrElite Veteran

Las Vegas , NV

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Thanks Bob, very helpfull !

    ▲
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▲ ▲ ▲ One of a Kind !!!

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02-02-2013 06:35 PM  5 years agoPost 4
BobOD

rrElite Veteran

New York- USA

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Wiring
It can be difficult to get information on servo wire and connections so I've put some information together to help.

First some basic rule of thumb figures.
A 6" 24AWG servo wire has a resistance of 26 mohm
A 6" 22AWG servo wire has a resistance of 16 mohm
Each contact has a resistance of 5.5 mohm
The wire resistance is proportional to its length so if you have an 8" wire, multiply by 8/6. The contact resistance obviously is the same.
v = i x r will give your voltage drops.

As an example, for an 8" 24 AWG extension wire with 10 amps, the following drops should be expected.
Contact voltage drop = 0.22 volts
Wire voltage drop = 0.35 volts
Total Drop = 0.57 volts

For 22AWG, they are:
Contact voltage drop = 0.22 volts
Wire voltage drop = 0.21 volts
Total Drop = 0.43 volts

And a final note on contacts. The above are based on gold plated contacts and pins. I don't believe the resistance of tin plated is very different when new. The difference is more that tin plated contacts start to degrade in about 8 to 10 cycles while gold ones last more like 75 to 100. Vibration would be expected to add to the degrading in a similar way but information on this isn't so clear. Needless to say, gold plating is a good thing on all contact points.

Team POP Secret

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