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HomeScaleAircraftHelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  MD500 TOW Defender Logo 500/600 Build
02-19-2013 05:11 AM  5 years agoPost 101
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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I have had the door handles for the rear doors made for a month or so and since the mechanics are still out, this was the time to grind down the lumps they put on to represent the handles and hinges. I would rather that they leave them off, entirely, and leave the installation up to the modeler or provide non-working scale copies. At least they got that right with the AS350. It came with scale molded-on hinges that are ok, but not as good as the ones I have for it now, but they are a vast improvement over the MD500. It even comes with actual handles, go figure, and they look great. I will give you a reminder picture and then the improved version. Take care.

Don

PS: I do love making this stuff, don't get me wrong.

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02-19-2013 07:22 AM  5 years agoPost 102
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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It's a scale thing, you know, that gnawing feeling that comes over you when you spot a previously ignored photo that has a tidbit of detail that can be done fairly quickly. Quickly, of course, is only in the eyes of the one doing it, not the guy sitting beside them, lol. I found another spot where I could make up some of those straps to fasten another piece of conduit with screws on the boom. I am now ready for bed and maybe the mechanics will go in tomorrow or not. I'm in no hurry as the weather is crappy up here, sigh. Take care.

Don

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02-20-2013 03:25 AM  5 years agoPost 103
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Today, I started to think about things that I should do before really taking this heli off the ground in flight. Hovering with a battery in storage mode is not an indication of the full potential of the heli. Also, I need to calibrate the GPS to the heli and doing that with a full body on it is not really fun. It needs to be done once so I thought to do it when I have a good day with lots of sunshine and some time to head to the club to do it. I could do it outside here but too many distractions can come up to me when I least want them, lol.

Another thing that has not really been done is to fly the heli in chassis mode only with everything on it and ready to install. I weighed the body and it is a bit of a porker at 6 pounds but not really out of line for a 600 body with an interior. I am sure that some Blackhawks weight more than that and no one has issues with them over the weight. So it was time to get it ready to properly test fly the mechanics. Really, flying the chassis with a two blade head and the tail flipped was not going to be enough to make sure of this conversion.

I modified the wood spacers by removing one of the back ones to put the head as parallel to the ground as I can get it, which it is in the body. The balance is now quite a bit different because of all the electronics added behind the main shaft. The removal of the nose also made some difference and I had to make a plate up to move both batteries further forward than they were when in pod and boom form. That was simple enough and it also gave me an indication that my bolts were not long enough in the first place as they were a bit loose showing me that the threads were not into the nylock nut far enough. I have longer screws so that will be addressed when the time comes.

One last mechanical issue came up and this one was indicative of some problems others were having with a four blade head when flipped to be on the left side of the boom. The Logo tail blade grips have arms on them with an offset to the right as you look at it from the hub. This is most likely to change the dynamics of the movement to favour mounting on the left side of the boom. Now, however, once on the right side, the offset reduces correction of the right and enhances it to the left, which is not desirable with the rotation going clockwise. If the main blades were rotating counter-clockwise, it would be great. The question was now how to correct it.

Changing the entire rotor assembly was an option as I have a couple of those floating around. The other was to leave the rotor and see if another linkage could change the movement around. I found that the Align pitch assembly can take the links from the Logo and vice-versa so that was one issue solved. The Align is much larger in diameter and metal, which is a plus but the two have their arms on the tail rotor housing at slightly different heights, and since the bolt was more than long enough (same thread, too), a spacer was placed under the pitch arm and the binding was gone.

So what I have now is a Logo rotor on the Logo tail housing and shaft, with an Align pitch linkage system. I guess if I knocked the one way bearing out of the main gear housing, I would be able to return to normal operation with the Logo parts (could do so in the future) but I think this is not the heli to try and get used to a counter-clockwise rotation head on. Maybe I can try it with my Jet Ranger but the tail would take too much work to change around. Not worth it right now.

Here you can see the offset of the arm and the Align parts in place

But this gets better every minute, lol. Just when I think I have it solved, manufacturers pissing contests rear their ugly head here. Align has two different ball sizes for their larger helicopters from 500's and on up. They can be 4.78mm for regular duty or for the biggest jobs, 5mm. Mikado had to make sure that they have something OTHER than those sizes so that you must get your spares for specialized components from them. The ball link on the pitch arm was 4.78mm, which apparently is a standard but the one on the slider, well let's just screw everyone up and make that one 4.9mm so they MUST come to us for spares. This came up because I noticed that the arm of the Align is 90 degrees and the Logo is something over 90, causing the Align arm to swing much further to the back vs. the Logo, which will have pretty much equal movement. I would love it if the two arms could just be exchanged but no, Logo will have nothing to do with it. If I used the Logo arm on the Align pitch lever, there is slop, lots of slop. Since the Logo pitch slider is plastic, they have a boss where the ball attaches to raise it above the slider body. The Align uses a boss on the ball to do the same thing. Now, in order to use the Align slider to offset the angled grip arms from Logo, a way must be found to raise the ball off the slider and not have a machine screw too long or too short. At least I found two sub-diameter washers that I stacked under the ball with another slightly larger washer from a 450 spindle screw. Now, the slider doesn't bind, the ball is matched to the arm it came with, and the offset of the grip arm is once again, solved. And I thought there was not much to do today. What a klutz I was.

Don

Here is the now corrected linkage for the tail pitch slider and arm

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02-20-2013 07:53 PM  5 years agoPost 104
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Sometimes in the mad rush to get something done or more usually "oh, right, I'll get to that a bit later", simple jobs get forgotten or worse, left undone because of lack of interest. I was the first example and knew that this should be done but later was not soon coming. The job was finally done this afternoon and it was a simple, yet important job. A capturing plate for the anti-rotation guide. I will say that Mikado made these very strong and it would most likely never spread apart but never is a very long time.

I was originally going to run a simple flat plate up the back and tie it together with Hysol. I had a small piece of aluminium on my desk left over from the Airwolf and that is when it struck me to make it even more simple. Make a cap as there was more than enough room between the top of the guide and the doghouse. If there is no need to, I don't like seeing the doghouse with a guide sticking way up in the air as it really takes away from the looks. My Jet Ranger has the guide cut off and is right below the surface using two pieces of wood to stop any spreading and it has been working perfectly. This is an easy enough modification but drilling those .042" holes is "fun". Take care.

Don

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02-21-2013 09:42 PM  5 years agoPost 105
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Not much today but I did do a little improvement to the wiring of the tail lights. I got a good ribbing about the size of the connectors and at the time, they were fine and easy to install. However, even when painted, they really didn't blend in very well at all, so today I bought a pack of micro extensions from E-Flite and the size issue is now sorted. I also put a few more screws into the body to follow the actual pattern on the foot or hand hold (I don't have a clue what it is but I made it as I saw it) on the side of the doghouse. The screw count in getting higher, lol. Take care.

Don

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02-22-2013 01:34 AM  5 years agoPost 106
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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The long awaited video has arrived on YouTube. I said it was not much but what I LOVED was the sound of the blades spooling up to speed, finally. Nerves? Not many as I was more worried about blowing our weekly night out if the unimaginable happened. I didn't get it out of ground effect and the battery was not charged but in storage mode, lol. Oh well, here it is.

Don

Watch at YouTube

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02-23-2013 12:22 AM  5 years agoPost 107
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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A few more details added tonight. I know that the tail boom on this helicopter was equiped with a lot more than a communications antenna and I took a stab at what is in the rear coffin shaped housing. Sensors. I am going by pictures of TD's that are in a museum (deactivated) and in a graveyard. None of them are so equipped anymore but I did find a video on YouTube that gave me a clue that the housing was not just a junction box for wiring. It is only a short section of video and not very high res but I was able to spot the black looking circles on the rear of the housing. I had seen other sensor shots showing nothing more than a flat disk so that is what it became. Lot's more screws got used tonight and I have a couple more panels to make. I found it is easier to make the panel then paint it off the heli and assemble using the actual screws to hold it on. No mess and who knows, one day they may come in useful. Take care.

Don

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02-24-2013 08:46 PM  5 years agoPost 108
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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I took some pictures last night of some of the detailing and distressing I did over the last day or so. These are also from the replacement "Point 'n Shoot" camera I bought to let my wife have her's back where she is more happy about it. For 30 dollars, it was a great deal but I can't go by the rear screen as it has too much contrast and fools me into thinking I have greatly over exposed the picture with the flash. Tomorrow, I may get the chance to test the mechanics out, as it is still way too cold for my liking. Here's hoping.

Don

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02-24-2013 10:09 PM  5 years agoPost 109
doorman

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Sherwood, Arkansas

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Lookiing Good!!!!
Congrats on getting it into the air for the first time.. all looked good... your detailing really looks great... you have a new addition to your fleet that you can be very proud of...

Very nice... Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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02-24-2013 10:58 PM  5 years agoPost 110
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Thank you Stan.

I painted all the screw heads this afternoon and filled in some paint around the unit marker so it was not as roughed up, as shown in that picture, to the naked eye. I also sorted 25 bags of screws in anticipation of getting the canopy and other windows installed soon. Screws will replace rivets on the upper rear windows and it will take a few of them at 1/6" spacing (or near abouts, lol). Take care.

Don

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02-24-2013 11:27 PM  5 years agoPost 111
Larry '53

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Spanaway, WA USA

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Nice to finally see some air under the skids.

Your cameraman is very brave with other peoples toys.

"dosen't" is not a real word

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02-24-2013 11:44 PM  5 years agoPost 112
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Thanks. Considering the only thing he has seen me fly are my xCPX, mSR, 120SR, and T-28 micros, yes, he was pretty brave, lol. He was still behind me the entire time as I didn't notice anyone in my peripheral vision trying to get too close. I hope to get the chassis in the air in the next couple of days so I can get it back together soon. Take care.

Don

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02-25-2013 01:23 AM  5 years agoPost 113
Larry '53

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Spanaway, WA USA

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Sorry Don - didn't mean he was too close, just that perhaps he was being a bit over eager with "spool it up" and "get it light" while you were looking to make sure all of the bits and pieces were staying where they belonged

"dosen't" is not a real word

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02-25-2013 02:47 AM  5 years agoPost 114
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Yes, I now see what you were pointing out. I really didn't intend to lift it off and wanted to take that opportunity to have a nice warm room to do the tracking in. I'm sure only one blade is not inline with the rest and I could probably find it by measurements but this way, I can check them all. I hope the turnbuckle is worth the money spent because it would be funny if only one needed to be changed with the 45 dollars spent for the three sets, lol. Oh well.

Don

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02-25-2013 06:53 AM  5 years agoPost 115
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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I've just about run out of things to do aside from adding the antennas on. It's still a bit early for that as there is too much handling going on right now during detailing and assembling. I added screws to one of the last places on the boom to be done. I also cleaned up some mistakes in aging which I did with an unusual cleaner for models. Hoppe's No.9. It cuts through well set acrylic or laquer and does not leave any trace once evaporated. I'm never without it for solvent related jobs that do not cut plastic or rubber. Great stuff.

Don

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02-25-2013 05:18 PM  5 years agoPost 116
doorman

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Sherwood, Arkansas

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Adding the antennas on!!!
I am one of the guys that can walk past one of my models and have something fall off :confusedafter I hit it)
So, a little trick that I learned is to mount all those little things that HANG OUT on the fuselage, is to use magnets to hold them on...makes them removable to clean the model and also, if hit you don't break the part.. it just comes off!!!
Just thought I would pass this little trick onto you...
Really a good looking machine!!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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02-25-2013 06:33 PM  5 years agoPost 117
coptercptn

rrElite Veteran

Mesa AZ. USA

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Nice to see it in the Air!!!!! stable... Great Job!!

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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02-26-2013 12:14 AM  5 years agoPost 118
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Thank you guys for the compliments and for the tip about magnetic attachments. Nice. I got it in the air as the chassis this afternoon and will post the pictures at the club and the one out of focus shot in the air that I got. More on that in the post later. Take care.

Don

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02-26-2013 01:21 AM  5 years agoPost 119
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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I made it out to do a bit of test flying today and it flys like a dream. What does get interesting is additional weight it has that I am not used to in the air and the anticipation of how far in advance an action must be started (like a high angle approach with a feathered landing), so that I don't fall out of the air or plow a trench coming in too fast. I was only able to take a couple of quick (not in focus because of how quick I shot them) snaps of the chassis in position hold mode. Since it was its first full flight, I thought I had armed the timer but apparently I did not, so I had a rather fast decent and landing as the ESC started the slow spool down. Yes, in one piece but it was close. I found my error and for the second flight, took it up for 4 minutes to see how much it used and it was only 2700mAH from the 4000 pack. I may get 5 minutes but something tells me I will be ordering a 450kv 5mm shaft motor and switching to 12s. Oh well, not all is lost.

After, I went to the local LHS and since they have a scale in there, I weighed the porker and by jove, it is a porker at 14.5 pounds. I had it in the air with 5.4 additional pounds of weight but the body weighed 6.4 minus the tail, so taking other things off the chassis that are not going to be there in the body, and adding the "T" tail, it works out to 6.5 pounds for the complete body with pilots. Maybe time to trim their bodies down to a skeleton rather than the very heavy full plastic shell they are. I don't care about what is under the clothing as long as it carries the look properly.

The last item is the video test I did downstairs in the parking lot after I got home as it was too cold out on the runway and I could duck into the truck if it really got nasty. As it turned out, it got warmer as the afternoon wore on and was near 5C when I did the vid test. I will try one more at 24fps as the movie cameras use to see what effect it will give the video. This is shot at 60 fps and then transposed to 29.97 fps (NTSC spec) so there are some things I will adjust in the video shooting as I spotted some unusual artifacts while watching the centre hub in other modes. At least the blades don't look like bent noodles, lol. Take care.

Don

Watch at YouTube

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02-27-2013 08:50 AM  5 years agoPost 120
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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I got some testing done indoors today and there is no question that the helicopter has lots of power but not enough battery power. I made up a new adaptor plate to take two batteries beside the frame. It will add weight but the batteries will run cooler as the pull with be half what it is now. The motor only gets to 125 degrees in flight and 135 after spool-down but the telemetry rotor speed is not correct. I had a tach and it was correct with it but wrong with the sensor so that will need to be looked at as it is off by 80 rpm or more. Oh well. Here are a couple of pictures of the new adaptor and the mess at the testing session. Take care.

Don

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