Ssz4 head too slow

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Home › ✈️Aircraft › 🚁Helicopter › HIROBO › Hirobo Turbulence › Ssz4 head too slow

07-30-2012 01:58 AM 8 years ago

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0Post 1

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Ssz4 head too slow

Hi
I have been flying my Freya + SSZ4 head for a while in no aggressive kind of flights. 2 months ago I bought a TRex 700 nitro to learn in a cheaper way ;-) and now I am getting mad with my expensive Freya because the head is so slow (in roll it is the worst) compare to the stock TRex!
I have the stock setting for the ssz4, the 535mm flybar and the stock palette with the medium extension and 690 Radix blades. I am at the maximum rate for the cyclic (around 7deg) and I can not get a fast and crisp rolling reaction.
Now I prefer my $800 TRex than my $2000 Freya!!! Please help me, what is wrong in my setup ???
Thanks

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07-30-2012 03:39 AM 8 years ago

0Post 2

Bugcatcher

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Perth, Australia

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Hi,

It might be easier to help if you posted some close up pics of your head. That way we can see your current setup and assist with your settings.

You should be getting more than 8 deg cyclic easy and +/- 12.5deg of collective without any problems. What headspeed are you running?

Andy.

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07-30-2012 04:28 AM 8 years ago

0Post 3

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Hi
I will post some pic tomorrow. But the setting is exactly the same as the stock one and the head speed is 1950 rpm (os105). However I can definity not reach 8 deg for the cyclic. Do you think that it could be linked to the fact that I am in HPM ?
Thanks

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07-30-2012 01:19 PM 8 years ago

0Post 4

ttrip06

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Central Pa

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We will wait till we see the pictures to be sure. HPM is part of the issue, but there is more then enough adjust-ability in that head to get you the response you are looking for.

Thanks

TimTim Tripoli

Team Futaba, Rail Blades
Team Crash
ProggressiveRC

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07-31-2012 04:19 AM 8 years ago

0Post 5

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Hello

These are some pics of my Freya. The collective pitch is at 0 deg for all the pictures, and for the ones with cyclic, this is the maximun rate I can reach

Thanks for some advices

Philippe

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07-31-2012 04:58 AM 8 years ago

0Post 6

TMoore

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Cookeville, TN

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Lighter paddles will help but there is a real possibility that forward flight stability can suffer so there is a balance that needs to be maintained.Part 107.
The only ZERO flight hour certificate in the world.
It's like getting a driver's license without the driver's test.

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07-31-2012 05:29 AM 8 years ago

0Post 7

Bugcatcher

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Perth, Australia

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Looking at the photo's. I think the main problem is the HPM mechanics. The head is setup the same as my D3. Only thing to try is to move the mixing arm ball locations to the right one more hole.

In saying that though, the Freya HPM is designed as a F3C heli and is meant to roll as you would for competition. It is not meant to flip and roll quick.

One thing I did just notice is your rods from your aileron servo are not parallel. I'm not sure what distance they are apart but you could try moving them out further to get some more mechanical throw. Does the head bind at all in it's current mechanical setup?

You can also move the ball link to the outer position on the blue collective bell crank left of the servo. That should give a little more throw as well.

Andy.

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07-31-2012 07:28 AM 8 years ago

0Post 8

JKos

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Redondo Beach, CA

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What is actually limiting you're cyclic throw?

- John

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08-01-2012 03:44 PM 8 years ago

0Post 9

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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hi
I went through your different wuestion and I figured out that the cyclic limitation was linked to the hpm arms. What i did is to reduce the maxi pitch to 11.5 deg and then i was able to increase the cyclic to a little bit more than 8deg ;-) . now the limit is the bearing of the plate which touch the main shaft... on saturday i will test it like this and i cross my fingers.
thanks

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08-01-2012 08:27 PM 8 years ago

0Post 10

Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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There is still more cyclic authority to be tapped in that head if it is still too slow for you.

Ben MinorPeak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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08-04-2012 07:36 PM 8 years ago

0Post 11

Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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You can use the longer pivot bolts on the swash-plate's upper ring to give you more throw to the Bell-Hiller mixers.Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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08-04-2012 09:46 PM 8 years ago

0Post 12

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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This morning I went to fly my Freya and now it is much better even if the roll speed is still lower than my TRex. But to avoid the contact of the HPM arm with the frame I had to reduce the cyclic to 7.5 deg.
However your idea Agilefalcon seems to be very good. In fact there is still a gap between the pivot bolts of the swashplate upper ring and the outside of the swashplate (the lower part). I know that there are different kinds of them (type A, B...). Do you know the longest one which can fit there ?

Thank you

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08-12-2012 01:31 AM 8 years ago

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Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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I'll look at mine and let you know.Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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08-18-2012 02:17 AM 8 years ago

0Post 14

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Ok thank you

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08-25-2012 07:46 PM 8 years ago

0Post 15

Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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Sorry it took so long to get back to you!
Here are two sizes you can try:

2530-009 5x12.5x3 This pivot ball is 12.5mm long
2530-010 5x9x3 This pivot ball is 9mm long

I would go with 2530-010 first. This is what I've been using. I'm not sure if the 12.5mm pivot ball would be too long.

Pivot ball E can substitute for Pivot ball D: I think these are the ones that are supplied in the kit.Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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08-27-2012 12:03 AM 8 years ago

0Post 16

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Hi
I looked at the swashplate and actually I have the 7 mm ones. Then I tested the 9 mm today. It is a little bit tough because it is very close to the outside of the swash. Then if the rod is not perfectly aligned, it will touch the outside of the swash. However I mounted them, I cut one side of the platic rod to avoid any collision and I tested it. It is a big change, now I can reach 9 deg for the cyclic before any collision of the HPM arms and the cyclic behavior is very fast. In the same time I changed the ratio from 8.27 to 7.92 to accommodate the torque of the os105 and to reach 2000rpm. I am very happy with my bird, thank a lot for your advice :-)

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08-27-2012 01:39 AM 8 years ago

0Post 17

Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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Cool! Glad it worked out for you.
I didn't catch what flybar length you were using. If you don't have it already, you can use the 555mm flybar. It's very quick!
I also like the stock paddles with just the brass weight, or the 90mm V-Blade paddles with weights on the flybar about 1/3 out from the middle.Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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08-27-2012 01:50 AM 8 years ago

0Post 18

filou406

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Lexington SC US

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Right now I have the stock paddles without any weight and the 535mm bar. I can try the 555mm, but concerning the weight in the paddle, I though that it would reduce the cyclic speed. Is it wrong ?

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08-27-2012 02:04 AM 8 years ago

0Post 19

payne1967

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slightly off topic
does anyone know if the the blade spacer insert/bolt 0414-412
for a 5mm drag bolt
has an optional part to use 4mm drag bolts as i'm fitting a turbulence head onto a sd50ex that uses 4mm bolts not 5mm on the blades
unless you know of a 5mm bolt hole in a set of 600mm blades

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08-27-2012 04:20 AM 8 years ago

0Post 20

Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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A longer flybar will increase rate while adding weight to the paddle will decrease it. You might find with the longer flybar that you need the weight to tone it down a little.Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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