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07-26-2012 12:08 AM  8 years ago
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chuck1073

rrApprentice

North Stonington, CT

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Woodies
Just starting out on my Raptor 50. Today while hovering, the plastic cover on one of the wood blades came loose at the tip causing about an inch-long tear starting on the leading edge. Having just done some work to the tail I thought the "whooping" sound had something to do with the tail. After lifting off a few times, and hearing the "whooping" get worse, it finally got so bad that I had to give full right rudder just to get back on the ground in one piece.

Question is: Can I repair that blade? CA? Maybe tape with an equal amount applied to the other blade with a balance check?

Thanks in advance!
Trex 700N - Raptor 50 FBL - B450FBL - 130X - mCPxBL - AMA #998104
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07-26-2012 12:12 AM  8 years ago
D.Magee

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kansas city mo.

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yes you can use ca make shure you use a glove that the ca wont eat through aply evenly on both blades and make shure it is balanced.but not the best fix that is why most people do not use wood blades but it is ok for hovering and learning.Just no 3d

lol

the blades could warp so keep a eye on them.
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07-26-2012 02:02 AM  8 years ago
Bob Wales (RIP)

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Lebanon CT

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Yes Chuck it can be repaired with ca.
As far as woodie blades they are perfect for lesarning with unless you have deep pockets to keep replacing with CF blades.
Team Heliproz
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07-26-2012 02:23 AM  8 years ago
jschenck

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La Vista, NE.

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I learned to flips, rolls, loops and auto's with a Raptor-50 running wood blades. I would wrap the tips with clear packing tape to keep the covering in place or just tear off the last couple of inches and put a bit of thin CA there to protect the wood and seal the edge of the remaining covering.

The *most* important part of using wood blades it you must glue on the plastic roots after carefully cutting the plastic and removing it from under the roots. I would mark them with a pen then lightly score the plastic with a #11 blade careful not to cut into the wood then epoxy the roots on and put the screws back in place.

2nd important rule is don't run them much above 1700RPM - that is the redline for 600mm wood blades from Thunder Tiger and Mavrikk. Do not overspeed them or you risk ripping one off in flight.

I found the TT wood blades auto'd better than some composite blades - specifically the older Mavrikk G4 sport blades.

Bottom line - glue the roots, tape the tips and don't run past redline speed of 1700RPM. They are perfectly safe for flips, rolls, loops and autos. There is likely less damage to your heli when you do wreck it because they give sooner and you are not spinning the blades as fast.
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07-26-2012 02:34 AM  8 years ago
jimmymc2286

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Commiskey, Indiana USA

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+1 what he said
I take the covering off when it starts to tear. Just seal the wood with your choice of sealer I use urathane. Woods are great for learning and mild stunts,.
Jimmy, If it looks like a heli I like it.
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07-26-2012 12:39 PM  8 years ago
chuck1073

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North Stonington, CT

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I hadn't considered just taking the covering off and finishing them with a clear finish. I've got one set that came with the heli that has a rip. I think I'll try stripping those and finishing them.

Thanks guys!
Trex 700N - Raptor 50 FBL - B450FBL - 130X - mCPxBL - AMA #998104
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07-26-2012 01:43 PM  8 years ago
doorman

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Sherwood, Arkansas

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Wood Blade Covering....
I have to give a +1 to jschenck...he covered all the points needed to fly woodies... and there is not a thing wrong with running them ifyou
ollow the info he laid down...
I would only add one item to help keep the maintenance down, and that is to heat the blade covering (after glueing the roots and tips)with a heat gun so that it stays tight and you will not have the problem of it "ballooning" and causing it to rip...
I have seem people try it, but if I were going to do it, I think I would use something on the order of thinned epoxy or finishing resin.. something that the fuel will not bother.
Good Luck
Stan
AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft
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07-26-2012 03:03 PM  8 years ago
jschenck

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La Vista, NE.

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yes, I've used a heat gun to tighten up the covering also and that does need to be done. be careful, it's low temp covering and you'll pop a hole in it quick.
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07-26-2012 04:37 PM  8 years ago
rstekeur

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Ft Myers, FL

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I pained a set and I covered another set with monocoat. Both worked fine except when I tried to dig a hole to china with them. I have 2 sets of these I got off flea bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/11084112768...984.m1423.l2648

They work great and are about half the price of the woodies. The only thing is you have to grind about a 1/4 inch off the end of the blade or they hit the bolt on the spindle in the grip when you try and close them. Then I put a little epoxie on the end and touched it up with white paint. I've done it on 2 sets. I haven't had any problems
Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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07-26-2012 06:01 PM  8 years ago
HAV

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Central Florida

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Still fly woodies on the Logo14 occasionally...FBL even! Just cut the plastic off and varnish.... HAV

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07-26-2012 06:07 PM  8 years ago
helitom

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Pine Grove, Calif, USA

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The tearing of the heat shink covering is a common with stock woodies. However, the other fault is that the heat shink lifts off the surface of the blade thereby changing the airfoil of the blade.

Monokote is the way to permanently fix woodies. Use your iron to stick down the Monokote all over the blade. Do not just iron down the edges, then heat gun the rest; iron it all down firmly. Using Monokote also allows you to dress up your machine a bit with the wide variety of colors available.

Staining, painting and/or glassing are other fixes but they are all time consuming.
The older I get, the fewer things seem worth waiting in line for.
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07-26-2012 06:36 PM  8 years ago
spaceman spiff

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Tucson

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If you aren't crashing every other weekend, the better blades are a good investment. After my first heat shrink blow out i went with fiberglas blades. Just a tad bit more expensive than the woods and trouble free like the carbon blades...

Who makes good cheap fiberglass these days?
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07-26-2012 11:15 PM  8 years ago
mustang67ford

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Central Pennsylvania

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I prefer to fly woodies without covering. Seal them up and they are great. Don't waste time taping the plastic covering. Ask yourself, is the quick repair worth risking the heli?Team HeliProz - Retired
AMA #513507
IRCHA #4011
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07-26-2012 11:58 PM  8 years ago
MANCHA

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Cabo San Lucas, Baja- Mexico

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Not on wood blades anymore !!
But I still teach rookies how to get them ready as follows:

1.- rip thin plastic covering off.
2.- CA the plastic roots, screwing is not enough.
3.- use a covering, vinyl covering paper like the one use on school books, the one with "auto-glue".
4.- start with ivory color, it is easy to see; once you learn to do it right, then start combining colors and designs ( like real show helis ).
5.- cut and apply covering one-two inches before edge, root & tip.
6.- CA exposed wood on root & tip ( those one-two inches ).
7.- balance your finished blades.

My 2 cents.
MANCHA
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07-27-2012 12:52 AM  8 years ago
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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What I learned from the early years is that the plastic coating will continue to lift no matter how you tack it down. Tear off the coating and seal the blades or paint them with fuel proof paint if your budget is tight. Although a bit more expensive your best bet would be to purchase a set of fibreglass blades as mentioned in other posts.Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!
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07-27-2012 03:17 AM  8 years ago
Clearance

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Rain Forest of Western Canada

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I've done everything that has been mentioned.

Since I don't crash too often, I replace the original heat-shrink covering with heat-shrink covering I get from the LHS. It's a bit of a pain sealing the compound curves at the ends of blades.

Using self-adhesive covering is okay as long as you balance the blades again.

Leaving them bare is not recommended for nitros; the oily residue from the fuel soaks in and the drag is much higher than the covered blades.

I don't know of too many nitro proof paint around; f/g them is tedious and not worth the effort.

I only use woddies on 30 size helis in order to cut cost.

my 2 cents.
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07-27-2012 02:11 PM  8 years ago
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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I don't know of too many nitro proof paint around; f/g them is tedious and not worth the effort.
Top Flight LustreKote has several paint colours (white, black, silver, red, yellow, clear coats etc.) in 10 oz. cans that are fuel proof. It dries in minutes and holds up well.
Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!
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07-27-2012 07:22 PM  8 years ago
MANCHA

rrVeteran

Cabo San Lucas, Baja- Mexico

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thanks Clearance
by:

"3.- use a covering, vinyl covering paper like the one use on school books, the one with "auto-glue". "

I meant:

Using self-adhesive covering is okay as long as you balance the blades again.

Lenguage barrier never ends I guess !!
MANCHA
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