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Home › ✈️Aircraft › 🚁Helicopter › e-Henseleit TDR MP-XLE MP-E › Main shaft swap = tricks you guys know?
07-25-2012 02:11 AM  8 years ago
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RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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Main shaft swap = tricks you guys know?
Some time ago I read a thread detailing a fairly painless way to swap out the main shaft/gear without removing the servos. Anybody know a trick of the trade to help make it go smoothly? I took a look through the archives but couldn't find it. /facepalmOnce you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-25-2012 03:46 PM  8 years ago
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marcosp

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Buenos Aires, Argentina

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It's a pain in the neck. I had to move forward the upper first stage block and it still was a challenge.

Anyone has the holly grail for this task?

Marcos
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07-25-2012 10:53 PM  8 years ago
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dumbthumb75

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Oslo, Norway

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There is a thread called "easy way to drop the gears out" on pg. 16, on another forum. Henseleit section, obviously.
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07-26-2012 12:21 AM  8 years ago
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whiskey

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Richmond,Va. USA

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I got mine out without removing servos. Remove head, remove bearing block screws and wiggle out is how I think I did it. It's a pain but not as tough as it seemed.
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07-26-2012 06:27 AM  8 years ago
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dxflyer

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Bay area, California

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RC are you just swapping out the main shaft? If you are; I would just remove bolt 414a and nut 414b; head, swash and then slide out the main shaft upwards.Logo 600 12S vbar, Logo 500 vbar
Protos FBL vbar
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07-26-2012 01:59 PM  8 years ago
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RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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Ultimately I want to swap the main shaft but hoping to get the black gear in there as well. With the move to Kansas I haven't had the time/energy to get it done. Hell, I still have 5.2 in it. /facepalmOnce you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-26-2012 02:26 PM  8 years ago
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F1 Rocket

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Melbourne, Florida USA

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The intermediate gear is easy to change without splitting the frames.
•Remove the motor
•Remove the lower intermediate shaft bearing block
•Drop the intermediate shaft assembly (watch the shim stack) and angle it forward.
•You can now reach the intermediate gear bolts with a long hex driver.
•Reverse the process to install the new gear. A little grease on the shims will keep them in place as you reassemble.Danny - DemonAero Support Team
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07-26-2012 03:34 PM  8 years ago
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RCSavager

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I am humbled by your instructs sir. Thank you from everyone who reads this thread. /bow

F1 Rocket for President! Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-26-2012 04:10 PM  8 years ago
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mrex

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Pearland, TX

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you can do it RC
Keep up the good work buddy
M
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07-26-2012 04:41 PM  8 years ago
0Post 10
marcosp

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Buenos Aires, Argentina

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I had more trouble with the main gear than the intermediate. I am going to that other thread's page 16. Must have been before I started mingling in the TDR forums.

Marcos
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07-26-2012 05:25 PM  8 years ago
0Post 11
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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Now on page one for ease in finding.

"Easy way to drop the gears out" Thread

Thanks for the link guys. One way or another I'll get it done but these tips will definitely help.Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-26-2012 06:46 PM  8 years ago
0Post 12
F1 Rocket

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Melbourne, Florida USA

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F1 Rocket for President!
LOL....not anytime soon Danny - DemonAero Support Team
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07-26-2012 08:08 PM  8 years ago
0Post 13
T-rexn8

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CoLoRaDo

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Danny knows his TDR's thats for sure!Xxtreme 800, TDR, 700E DFC, Mini Protos, T-450 DFC, Blade 130x, mcpx, nano
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07-26-2012 09:19 PM  8 years ago
0Post 14
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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OK, now my version.

Pull upper Jesus bolt.
Pop 3 x servo links.
Remove head assembly w/ swash.
Remove anti-rotation bracket.
Remove bolts for and upper bearing block.
Remove bolts from lower bearing block.
Remove the two outer bolts holding your servo bracket to the frame.
Slide shaft/lower bearing assembly backward approx 1/2".
Remove main shaft w/ main gear.
Done in 3 minutes.
Do your thing and reverse for assembly.

Thanks guys, wasn't so hard after all. Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-26-2012 10:45 PM  8 years ago
0Post 15
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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I did all this chasing a vibration in the head and couldn't remember if I'd changed the main shaft after the failed auto. After 3 minutes I found that I had. /facepalm

However, during reassembly I discovered that the intermediate shaft was VERY loose in the up/down motion. Four bolts and I dropped the lower bearing assembly for the intermediate shaft and added a shim. Reassembled and checked mesh between the two crown gears for the TT shaft. All seems well and everything back together.

While I had the tools out I reinstalled the "Rigid" dampener setup and bolted up the Radix FAI blades again. Batteries are charging now for a test drive.

Additionally, found an EASY way to change out the intermediate gear to install the new high-temp gear....

Loosen the tail boom clamp.
Loosen the lower bolt on both boom clamps inside the frame.
Disconnect tail linkage rod.
Pull tail boom out to clear.
Pull motor mount out ONLY if using the counterbearing.
Drop lower bearing bolts/assembly on the intermediate shaft.
Gear shaft falls out of the upper bearing assembly.

Happy wrenching guys. Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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07-27-2012 12:22 AM  8 years ago
0Post 16
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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Shake is gone!

196 amps & 8000 watts.

Changed the tail blades from 110's to 95's and either need to up the tail pre-comp or go back to 110's. /shrug

Going to mount up the 110's for the next flight and see if the shakes come back.

Total I put back the "rigid" dampener setup, upgraded vbar to 5.3, mounted Radix FAI 710's and Radix 95's. Who knows what fixed it but it HAULS in FFF now. No more porpoise effect but hard to go all out with the tail pre-comp borked. We'll see what happens the next flight.

Thanks guys, hope it helps the next guy when he has to turn a wrench on his bird. /thumbsupOnce you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.
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