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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Radikal g20 Succesful Maiden Flight!!
06-03-2012 03:59 AM  6 years agoPost 1
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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Finally got it built. It took me awhile since I am new to gassers. Few different things to think about as opposed to Nitros, plus I wanted to take my time. Anyhow doing a breakin of the engine as according to Sparks writeup in his review. The Zenoah started almost immediately with half choke and proceeded to idle great. Spooled up in a hover and flew great aside from landing a couple times to adjust blade tracking and a couple of clicks of left and aft trim. Hovered first tank and did some slow forward flight. Very happy so far. I was somewhat nervous on first lift off but all went well. Also glad that the clutch bell did not come loose on first start since I am doing a top start. I've asked alot of questions during my build and sure appreciate the answers, advice and tips. Also could not believe how long she flew on a tank of gas. I got about 17 minutes. No excessive vibration but I can see the fuel foaming abit. If it holds up this will be a fun heli.

Radikal G20: Eveything stock.
Spektrum DX7
AR7100R receiver
Spartan Quark gyro
JR 8311 cyclic servos
JR 8900 tail servo
Savox SC 0254 throttle servo
Mavrikk 620mm wide chord blades
Hobbico Life 2100 mah receiver battery
Hobbico Hydrimax 2000mah ignition battery
Century Air Filter
87 octane, Pennzoil air cooled engine oil 25:1 for breakin

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06-03-2012 04:19 AM  6 years agoPost 2
strat1960s

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San Antonio Texas

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Glad to hear you got things going. After a a few more flights you should get more comfortable with it. What do you think about the flying time compared to your other helis?
Given any though to going flybarless?

Ted

I always have fun. Some times are more fun than others.

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06-04-2012 12:53 AM  6 years agoPost 3
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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Yes, probably next year for flybarless. The kit came with a flybarless head. Just want to get used to this heli. Looks like I do have some vibration in the tail. I would say 1/8" high frequency up and down vibration in tail and also quite abit of foaming in the tank. Is this typcial and will this settle down as the engine breaks in. Or is there something I can do now from anyones experience. I am running about 1800 headspeed.

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06-04-2012 03:16 AM  6 years agoPost 4
strat1960s

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San Antonio Texas

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I flew my radikal almost a year with the normal head but kept having issues with the tail. I installed the beast x and the flybarless head and it is rock solid.
I never had any issues with foam in the tank so maybe someone else can help you with that.

I always have fun. Some times are more fun than others.

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06-07-2012 01:07 AM  6 years agoPost 5
angeljr

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Valrico, FL - USA

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No excessive vibration but I can see the fuel foaming abit. If it holds up this will be a fun heli.
Are you running the stock clunk? One piece of advice I got from PistolPete is to get a felt clunk. It is supposed to help with the foaming. I got the one on Century's site: http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=9814

It is also supposed to be a little heavier when wet so it moves better in the tank. Zero foaming issues on mine and I'm about a half-gallon into the break-in. I got my break-in instructions from Al Chianelli at B.H. Hanson and he recommended 32:1 ratio on gas to oil... just a thought

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06-07-2012 03:26 AM  6 years agoPost 6
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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angeljr, yes using the felt clunk from heliworld. I think as soon as I get through this first gallon of 25:1 gas and start tuning engine using a 32:1 mix things will calm down. I am only 1/4 through the first gallon. Runs forever on a tank of fuel. Thanks.

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06-07-2012 03:30 AM  6 years agoPost 7
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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angeljr, Also do you have a link for Al Chianelli at B.H. Hanson breakin instructions.

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06-07-2012 03:32 AM  6 years agoPost 8
angeljr

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Valrico, FL - USA

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Runs forever on a tank of fuel.
NO KIDDING!!! It seems like I'm never gonna get mine broken in!
Also do you have a link for Al Chianelli at B.H. Hanson breakin instructions.
I have them but I'd like to respect that it is his property. I'm going to call him and ask if I can post them. I don't know if he's back from Japan yet but I'll try.

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06-07-2012 01:06 PM  6 years agoPost 9
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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Understand, thanks.

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06-07-2012 02:23 PM  6 years agoPost 10
Pistol Pete

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Seffner, FL

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https://rc.runryder.com/t551272p1/

I followed above link to break in my "stock" engine.

Felt clunk is to avoid air (bubbles) from getting into fuel line (carb) as it stays "wet" unlike the stock clunk that will suck in air the second its out of the fuel itself. (like when you have less than half tank and doing aerobatics...**more below)

Your foaming issues are related to engine tuning (vibrations). Once broken in and tuned right, it should go away. Mine did.

It took me close to 50 flights to finally get my throtle/pitch curves down just right with no governor @ 1900-2000 rpm range. Quite a challenge it was but I DID IT! Perfect? No clue but I'm a happy camper so far. I have no clue what my pitch range is but bogging its not and response is on par with my flying.

**Yesterday I had two forced autos after engine quitting on me with less than a quarter tank. Discovered that the fuel line inside tank had broken and sucking air it was. Actual culprit was a wheel collar I added for extra weight to a felt clunk that already had weight built in. So in essense I caused it due to "over kill" on my part as the fuel line broke exactly where the collar was. Now removed for good.

Having a blast with 20 plus minute flights.

EDITED
Needles settings with high velocity stack
H @ 1-1/4 (from 1-1/2)
L @ 7/8 (from 1-3/8)
32-1 oil/fuel ratio

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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06-07-2012 11:34 PM  6 years agoPost 11
angeljr

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Valrico, FL - USA

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Also do you have a link for Al Chianelli at B.H. Hanson breakin instructions.
Got permission, enjoy!

http://www.angelrojasjr.com/2012/06...break-in-guide/

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06-08-2012 03:21 AM  6 years agoPost 12
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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Thanks to both for provding those links. I said I was getting a 17 minute flight and noticed PistoPete getting 20 min. flight. I forgot I still had 1/8 tank left that would sure give me at least three more minutes. Unreal flight times. Seems like my muffler is staying tight but did get some leakage of brown residue underneath between the muffler and engine exhaust, but seems to have stopped. I will read both of the tune up links before I fly again.

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06-08-2012 03:46 AM  6 years agoPost 13
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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1/8 tank left...

I have learned that if you fly to the point where you don't see fuel in the tank anymore....your asking for some serious unplanned emergency autos...

Flight time is really good on the Radikals...20 minutes on the G20 is about average if you just do sport flying and keep the HS around 1850.
If you crank up the HS to 2000 or even 2100 especially on a modded engine (like I do) expect flight times around 14 minutes (more or less depending on the pinion used, blade size and style)

I think the most "gas guzzling" my G20 has ever done is during the cold winter on a 13T pinion with a HS of 2100 and just abusive flying (bad collective management)...serious performance for this "Porky" gasser but ended up with only 12 minute flights...BUT hey its gasoline and cheap!

Tell you what though...I don't look forward to the 110 + degree heat comming in july and august...

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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06-08-2012 01:15 PM  6 years agoPost 14
angeljr

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Valrico, FL - USA

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Thanks to both for provding those links. I said I was getting a 17 minute flight and noticed PistoPete getting 20 min. flight. I forgot I still had 1/8 tank left that would sure give me at least three more minutes. Unreal flight times. Seems like my muffler is staying tight but did get some leakage of brown residue underneath between the muffler and engine exhaust, but seems to have stopped. I will read both of the tune up links before I fly again.
Echoing RM3, leave some fuel in the tank, we all do! I think your lower flight time is probably more related to you running 25:1 or so ratio. You're burning a lot more oil than we are so you're getting less power. Unless there's a specific reason you're running that ratio I would say thin it out a bit but that's just my uneducated wild guess.

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06-08-2012 01:46 PM  6 years agoPost 15
newlandb

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Decatur, Illinois - United States

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Oh, no problem. I was not intending to burn the last 1/8 of the tank. And, yes I never even thought of why I was getting less fuel economy thinking that the mentioned 20 minute flight they still had a reserve left. I was thinking that the 25:1 ratio would be good for breakin. I haven't got to the two tuning threads but one them is recommending 32:1 for breakin. I am half way through my first gallon. Should I continue on with the 25:1. It smokes a bit at idle then clears up as I spool up to 1800 headspeed. The engine seems to be running good though. I just got a infrared temp. gun and will use that when I get serious about tuning.

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06-08-2012 01:55 PM  6 years agoPost 16
angeljr

rrNovice

Valrico, FL - USA

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I haven't got to the two tuning threads but one them is recommending 32:1 for breakin.
Check 'em out and ask lots of questions! I am running an unmodified engine and Al @ Hanson recommended 32:1. I had never seen 25:1 for break-in but I have heard of lower ratios for after break-in (40:1 / 50:1).

One thing's for sure... you're not gonna burn anything up at 25:1!

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06-08-2012 07:28 PM  6 years agoPost 17
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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+1 to what angeljr says...

25:1 ratio is going to take you much longer to break your engine in...another problem with going with that much oil is that it will lead to your plug getting fouled up and this in turn will effect how your engine tunes and ultimately runs. Not to mention you will probably end up having to clean black tar off the rear of your heli when running a high oil ratio.

Youll be surprized how many issues are caused by a fouled up plug...as the manual and others here say...32:1 is about where you want to be.

I would highly recommend learning how to "read" your spark plug...there are many sites that even have color pics for the appearence that a spark plug has when run in a properly tuned 2 stoke engine (just make sure you are indeed looking at 2-stroke tuning pics and NOT the 4 stroke pics)...the color of the plug can tell you plenty about whats going on inside.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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06-09-2012 03:55 AM  6 years agoPost 18
newlandb

rrApprentice

Decatur, Illinois - United States

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All that makes sense. I guess I got that 25:1 ratio from Helifreak Gasser thoughts thread and the Zenoah manual stating a ratio range of 25:1 to 40:1. So, 32:1 it is. Do you guys then continue to run 32:1 after breakin. Really apprecicate the help. At about a half gallon with the 25:1. I will dump this and mix some 32:1.

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06-09-2012 04:03 AM  6 years agoPost 19
fastflyer20

rrKey Veteran

N. Tonawanda, NY

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32:1 for ever more. If you get everything perfect, they can run on less oil. 32:1 seems to be a good compromise.

The ring seats quickly, it is the piston that takes time to wear in. It needs to be rich in the beginning to help keep it cool. You will notice the engine loosen up, run smoother (cooler) and therefore allow you to lean it out as it breaks in.

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06-09-2012 03:43 PM  6 years agoPost 20
angeljr

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Valrico, FL - USA

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Do you guys then continue to run 32:1 after breakin.
Ha! I'm not there yet so thanks for asking!
The ring seats quickly, it is the piston that takes time to wear in. It needs to be rich in the beginning to help keep it cool. You will notice the engine loosen up, run smoother (cooler) and therefore allow you to lean it out as it breaks in.
And then a great answer, thanks!

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