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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › 4 blade rotor head advice
05-31-2012 03:28 AM  6 years agoPost 1
helicrunch

rrApprentice

Rock Hill sc

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has anyone out there used the helicoptermanufaktur M003 4 blade head?
sold by east coast vario,
I need a head with a 12 MM shaft and 14mm blade grips,
i am abandoning a cnc helicopter 4 blade head because its junk,
blade grips have too much play and the spindle shafts are not in line with each other getting way too much vibration and tired of messing with it (you get what you pay for) or if there is another head that i can pass the main shaft thru i am all ears, this is for a kiowa warrior so the main shaft has to protrude above the head to attach to the target pod

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05-31-2012 01:39 PM  6 years agoPost 2
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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If Joe sells it, you can bet its not junk.

You might want to check with Darrell, he built a Kiowa with functional MMS but its just as likely he made the head in his machine shop as bought one.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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05-31-2012 02:27 PM  6 years agoPost 3
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Fly Fine..
I fly the MO71 all metal head and a good friend flies the MOO3..
Both fly fine without a stabi system and are a quality product.
The only problem you might run into is if Joe has them for a 12mm shaft...give him a call
he will steer you in the right direction...
Good luck with your project...
Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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05-31-2012 03:12 PM  6 years agoPost 4
Phoenix NOTAR

rrApprentice

Tallahassee, Florida USA

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I fly the M003 head on a Marvel Craft Bell 407.

You can see it at the end of the build thread:

https://rc.runryder.com/t656614p2/

I fly this heli weekly, and the head is about as perfect as any I have ever had. And as stated in the build thread, I do not use any stabilization with this head / blade combination.

Joe Howard is the guy to talk to about getting one of these great heads.

Sandy

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06-01-2012 03:01 AM  6 years agoPost 5
helicrunch

rrApprentice

Rock Hill sc

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Andy and Stan thanks for the info
i think i need the M003 as it looks like the shaft goes thru the head
i will contact Sandy to get the scoop on the head

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06-04-2012 07:45 PM  6 years agoPost 6
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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ive used the century head for my kiowa and the shaft need not actually pass all the way thru the head for this to work, there just has to be a hole in the center hub so your mast mount (shaft) will pass thru.
Darrell's kiowa uses a head i havent been able to identify (neither has he) but it is something that was once n production (looks german) so far, all the multi heads ive looked at on the market can be used for a kiowa. i have another lonbow waiting to be built that will also use the century head for the fcr.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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06-05-2012 04:36 AM  6 years agoPost 7
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

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Not to hijack the thread but what is the difference between a flapping hinge head and the rest? I'm looking at which one to get for an upcoming project and don't know where to start. I know the century heads are good and that is one of my options but I saw this one and didn't know if it would be worth it or not.

http://www.scaleflying.com/4-Blade-...ize_p_2440.html

Thanks in advance for the help, Chris

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

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06-05-2012 06:07 AM  6 years agoPost 8
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Here's a great article for you regarding flapping hing and teetering heads. I would really like to see how they acomplished a real flapping hinge (coning hinge) arrangement on that specific rotorhead. Unless they just use a standard rubber dampener in the hub and call it a flapping hinge, which by actual definition it is not, or if they have somehow created a pivot for the blade grip to articulate around and create coning angle during flight.
Barry

http://www.copters.com/mech/mr_semi.html

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-07-2012 12:34 AM  6 years agoPost 9
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

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Thanks Barry, lots of good info there. I'm still unsure of what head to buy. The way I understand the difference between the flapping hinge one and the rigid heads is that the flapping hinge may be easier to fly without an electronic stabilizer. Am I correct? I haven't flown a multi blade before and want to make sure I get it right the first time. I have read enough to know that it is possible to fly without a fbl system but they can be a handful in the wind. I'm trying to decide which way to go and have it narrowed down to trying it without and adding a fbl system if needed, either the beast x or v bar. Any advice on which system, head and blades is greatly appreciated.

Chris

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

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06-07-2012 03:17 PM  6 years agoPost 10
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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the flapping hinge may be easier to fly without an electronic stabilizer. Am I correct?
not really, pick the head you feel best about and choose your blades, they make or break what flies best. see, most manufacturers have gone "rigid" (non flapping heads) because blades have changed over the years. the century, RCA and OF heads are all rigid now and fly very well with the right blades and no stab systems. heavy blades work best and with the use of thrust brngs as std in these heads, you can get just a little heavier with blade wts than back in the day when thrust brngs were not std in a head.
i have been doing the multiblade thing without stab for a while (altho i am trying some stab stuff now) and i can honestly say, all the heads do well with the right blades, i have had great success with fiberglass blades from funkey, rotortech blades and even the wood blades from century's hawk sport/pro. all without stab units and it goes to say that this combo with a unit should be even more confortable to fly

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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06-07-2012 03:44 PM  6 years agoPost 11
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Head Info
With your need for the 12mm shaft, I would follow CopterDoctors perscription to the letter, and you will end up with a system that will work properly..and no "exciting moments" during the flight, even in a breeze!!!! The stab system then will add to your comfort level...
I like the Funkey F/G blades also..and have them on a couple of my scale machines...
A lot of guys forget about wood blades, but I have and still use them once in awhile... just remember to remove the plastic covering under the grips and seal the wood with CA or epoxy and then repalce the grips (OLD SCHOOL:rolleyes

Good Luck, Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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06-07-2012 06:38 PM  6 years agoPost 12
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

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All good info, thanks. I'm going to go with the diamond head from century and the funkey fiberglass blades. I'll fly without a stab system first them decide if I want one later. Check out the docs section of the scale forum and you'll see what it's going on, emile you will especially like this one and I'm sure I will have a lot of questions for ya.

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

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06-07-2012 07:21 PM  6 years agoPost 13
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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i like it!!
mine has the century diamond head with rotortech 610mm blades and so far its doing well without stab. havent done any fwd flt yet and have a stab unit ready if it needs it. gonna try some funkey fiberglass blades before i do the stab thing tho to see how they do. sometimes you have to try diff blades to see what does best

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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06-08-2012 11:16 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Maidened my rex600e 4 blader today on low HS. She flys butter smooth... The tracking and phasing were spot on and no adjustments needed. I'm running vbar 5.0 on this heli. The combo is 170 main, 18 tooth pinion 800kv kontronic motor and Rotortech 600mm scale blade set. They are pretty narrow chord and fly great. The head is an RCA plug-n-play that has been converted to straight links instead of the "J" arms. The J arms won't clear my koala doghouse. I adjusted the phasing in the vbar program. We had a very bad head bobble on the first FF that wasn't very pronounced in a hover. Messed with the head gain and got it right on the 4th try. After lowering the gain to 55, she smoothed right out and flew like a pussycat Here's a vid of the maiden hover and trim. Just hovering and playing with the sticks and trim. I cut the vid short because the file was going to be huge. Ignore the ugly canopy
Barry

http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/...exlaunch011.mp4

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-08-2012 11:52 PM  6 years agoPost 15
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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cool Barry, whats that going in?

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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06-09-2012 12:01 AM  6 years agoPost 16
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Thanks Doc. It's going in my marvelcraft A119 Koala. Did you notice the tall main shaft? The koala was designed around the rex600 nitro, so I had to make a longer mainshaft for it.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-09-2012 12:23 AM  6 years agoPost 17
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

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I cant watch the video, anyone else having trouble with the link?

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

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06-09-2012 01:16 AM  6 years agoPost 18
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Photobucket probs again... I'll fix it after work tonight. Sorry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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