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HomeAircraftHelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › 700 is there a easy way to remove starter coupling
05-29-2012 01:37 AM  6 years agoPost 1
WEBSTER5069

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denison,tx

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Is there a easy way to remove the starter coupling I stripped it out with my cordless drill??? took out the two set screws and the coupling won't budge...

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05-29-2012 01:39 AM  6 years agoPost 2
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Try heat.

Chris

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05-29-2012 01:44 AM  6 years agoPost 3
WEBSTER5069

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denison,tx

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How much heat??? Like a heat gun or lighter what would work best??

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05-29-2012 01:46 AM  6 years agoPost 4
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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Use the least heat you need too, try the heat gun first.

Chris

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05-29-2012 02:37 AM  6 years agoPost 5
WEBSTER5069

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denison,tx

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Still couldn't get it off am I suppose to use a torque side of a Allen wrench or just the Allen side? I got it started though with the Allen side since it was stripped out ...

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05-29-2012 12:17 PM  6 years agoPost 6
airdodger

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Johnston USA

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I don't understand what you are asking?

Chris

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05-29-2012 12:24 PM  6 years agoPost 7
HiroboFreak

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Central Coast, NSW, Australia

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If the set screws are already removed give it a spin with the starter to loosen it off.

EDIT: I re-read your initial post about the hex being stripped.

If you loosen off some side frame screws, you can get enough clearance to remove the clutch block/clutch bell as an assembly out through the top.

Once you've got it out, stick a pin punch down into the coupling & tap the start shaft out.

T-rex700n VBar 5.3 Pro | T-rex700e DFC VBar 5.3 Pro | JR DSX9
Team RCBits | Team Lynx

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05-29-2012 03:59 PM  6 years agoPost 8
WEBSTER5069

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denison,tx

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I actually got it started last night by trying to spin it over with the stipped coupling and it got so hot from doing this when i was done flying the coupling came right off...Thank god because i didn't want to have to tear the heli apart to fix such a simple part...

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05-29-2012 05:14 PM  6 years agoPost 9
phillips942

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San Diego, CA

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I had the same thing happen to me this past Sunday. The start shaft has the smallest dimples for the set screws to hold the coupling on and it stripped while attempting my second flight.

Im gonna take the assembly apart and grind a deeper slot for the setscrew to grip so this wont happen again.

Freakin nitros...lol

U.S. Navy [Avant Aurora/2 Trex 700N/600NSP/450Pro]

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05-30-2012 03:44 PM  6 years agoPost 10
marc8090

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Long Island, N.Y.

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I put 45 gallons through my 2 700's last year and I'm still using the original starter couplings with zero issues. The two dimples are plenty deep and if tightened well should not strip. It's one part of the design that actually works. What also helps is to use green loctite to glue the coupler to the shaft in addition to loctiting the set screws.

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05-30-2012 04:16 PM  6 years agoPost 11
CF1

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Olympia, WA

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My 700 has always been good but the 600 is a PITA. I have gone through many shafts. Lately I put a third set screw in the coupling and made a third dimple in the shaft. So far it is holding well.

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05-30-2012 04:21 PM  6 years agoPost 12
unclejane

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santa fe, NM, USA

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In my experience, grinding a flat spot is a necessity to keep the collar from stripping. It's also needed in case you ever want to get that SOB off again without a hell of a fight - the key there is to use only one set screw in the flat spot. If you use the other screw, it just boogers a hole in the shaft making removal a really miserable affair later.

But yes once it's boogered on there, the only way I've ever been to get it off is to crank it over with the starter to loosen it up. Then of course you have to pull the clutch assembly and/or the motor to get to it and replace the shaft.

The start shaft and OWB in the clutch is the only major problem with the trex 700N. In my case, slipping of the OWB has almost forced me to retire the entire machine. I'm on my 5th or 6th clutch now and am able to turn the engine over. Hope this one lasts!

LS

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