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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › What does this mean?
05-29-2012 02:25 AM  6 years agoPost 21



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The enya #5 is what the reps are recommending. But I am sticking to the #4 as it is listed as a recommended plug and fly’s well.

I will try the Enya #3 and the OS#8 as I have both of them in my glow plug box. Thanks for the advice.

I used a light synthetic green billow pad to clean the oil residue off the piston. The aluminum has no scuff marks or abrasions in it at all. If I don’t clean the burned oil off, it will be hard to tell if I am running to lean again. The gentleman in a local hobby shop recommended this as the safest way to clean the motor parts without damaging them.

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05-29-2012 02:37 AM  6 years agoPost 22



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The last time i flew my vibe 50 (with 50 hyper) it was 97 degrees here in Il. I had to lean out the main 4 clicks from the last time it was flown to get good power/sound. the last it was flown before that temps outside was 78-82. On the 97 degree day the cylinger felt kinda hot, but when the fan is only able to blow hot air on the head at that temp it is to be expected. The important thing to understand is that for reliable combustion so many parts of fuel is needed to mix with so many parts of oxygen.

When I was racing 8th scale buggy several summers ago I remember my novarossi p5x (probably the most respected engine at that time) would like to run around 190-205 degrees at the glow plug during the hottest days. A friend of mine was using a 'ready to run' engine that came with his buggy, this engine wouldnt run for crap if it didnt temp 260 minimum but @ that temp he could almost hang with me on the straights and he ran the engine like that throughout the race series (summer). I am not trying to say it's fine to run a typical heli engine at temps like this, just to say not to pay as much attention to the temp of the engine, focus attention on sound.

05-31-2012 02:33 PM  6 years agoPost 23
Four Stroker

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An engine run fat and happy will last many seasons.

On the other hand, nobody has ever won a race of any kind running fat and happy. It is perfectly proper, rational, and intelligent to run your engine on the edge of destruction in a race.

These engines make more power the hotter you run them up until something bad happens - pre-detonation, siezing up the ring or piston, etc.

So if you want to do extreme crack psycho 3D with your engine and replace it every 10 flights, go for it. It's a hobby. It's your engine. There is no right or wrong way to go about it.

05-31-2012 04:41 PM  6 years agoPost 24



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+1 to 4Stroker!

But - on the other hand....

I have ran a Saito 90 FS in an old Hirobo Fuz, (the Red one in my gallery) for nearly 10yrs..

I ran the thing on a home brew of 10% ML70(synth oil) - 15% Nitro and the remainder clean Methanol (no Ether etc.) In it's 4/5th year I changed the bearings as they started to get noisey and fitted Stainless ones. They have been there ever since..

The last few months I retired the Saito for a Scorpion, as I converted all my fleet (apart from the Turbines) to Electric for the sake of convenience and more power as it happened!

I ran all my 2strokes on 18% oil and my 4strokes on 10%. Always used clean Methanol and ML70 Synthetic oil. I've never had problems with overheating, or non starting etc, except for the occasional whisker in the carb, which I'd flush out with clean fuel. Modern engines will run perfectly for years if looked after, not hammered and well set up!!

We have guys in our club who knock the cods off their 2strokes in 3D, but again, as they are set up well seem to soak up the punishment week after week.


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