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HomeAircraftHelicopterFuel-Helicopters New or Limited ActivityAvant › New owner Aurora Ultimate
03-11-2012 09:41 AM  6 years agoPost 1
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Hi all,
Picked up a New used Aurora to add to my fleet. I have to say I was thrilled to get one finally. I assembled it from the major sections that were shipped. I had one brain fart test flying. Hit the hold switch in a low hover and the heli Piro out of control and crashed. I was very disappointed to say the least. It was the usual. Blades, main shaft, feathering spindle, tail boom. Just a little history. I have owned Thunder Tiger, MA, Hirobo, Align, Synergy and now Avant. I have to say this is the most difficult heli to repair out of all I have owned. First off parts are hard to find in stock. Had to order from Carbon Xtreme and they took there time shipping the parts. Then it was the tear down. What's up with that main shaft? Allen and 4mm pin? Jesus shoulder bolt has worked great for every other mfg. Then the tail boom. How you suppose to install the new tail boom without splitting the frames? I did it. It wasn't easy. Then the battery tray. Just asking to be broken. Hanging out in space with no support. One of the good ideas is the break away canopy mount. Wish there were more good ideas through out the kit. Maybe I'm too critical but I thought more of this high end heli. I'm having second thoughts on my purchase. Maybe this is why Alan Szabo isn't sponsored by Avant anymore. Please reply if you have any comments. Maybe I'll change my mind once I actually fly it. What am I missing? Thanks for reading my rant.

Synergy N5C

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03-11-2012 12:36 PM  6 years agoPost 2
carcrasher

rrElite Veteran

east coast

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It shouldn't have piro'd at all. It has a driven tail. Something was up there. I agree with the pin and set screw. What a PIA. My prototype had a Jesus bolt and it was so much easier to deal with.

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03-11-2012 12:43 PM  6 years agoPost 3
rchelichop

rrVeteran

seeya

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Besides the break away canopy mounts, from what I've seen, the Avants are made just for flying, not crashing.

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03-11-2012 05:35 PM  6 years agoPost 4
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Thanks for the reply. I've been looking to buy and Aurora for some time and when one showed up here I jumped on it. Should have known. Nobody else was fighting me to buy it. In all fairness the economy has a lot to do with it. I thought $1400.00 RTF was a fair price. I don't know about you but I crash a fair amount. I can't count how many times I repaired my Trex 600. I believe EVERYBODY crashes or they never fly. Hanger queen. My favorite is when sellers say "Never crashed" Bulls&@$. I can rebuild my Trex in half the time as this Aurora and with MUCH less grief. I got the Aurora almost finished. I'll get it flying and hope NOT to crash too soon. If I do I think it's fire sale time. LOL. "carcrasher" your right. The heli shouldn't have Piro at all. It wasn't really that bad. Just Piro 180 degrees. Just took me by surprise. I don't understand it either. The Sprag bearing looks to be fine. I'll try it again with more altitude and see what happens.

Synergy N5C

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03-11-2012 07:03 PM  6 years agoPost 5
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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The Aurora is just about the easiest helicopter on the market to repair, but you've got to know the tricks (like how to get the top servo out which is a little bit of a puzzle). There is no reason that I can think of to ever split the frames unless you have broken one of the frames. To take out the main shaft, main gear, and tail drive gear simultaneously, you simply loosen one screw. To remove the tail boom, you loosen 4 screws. Very quick and easy to maintain.

Maybe you somehow happened across a really old prototype version of the Aurora Ultimate? Or maybe you have an older EFX version? Do you have some pictures of your helicopter you can share with us? I am very curious why you are having so many problems.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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03-11-2012 07:19 PM  6 years agoPost 6
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Thanks Justin.
There are two plastic clam shell pieces that go on both sides of the tail boom. Small notch toward the front of the heli. This isn't the problem. When you go to install the tail boom with the plastic pieces there is a small pressed in 2mm nut on the left side of the frame. Viewed from the rear. This is part of the tail servo control rod bell crank. You have to spread the frames to get over the nut or loosen the front transmission bevel gear bolts. Don't want to do that and loose any alignment. I hope I have explained this properly.

Synergy N5C

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03-11-2012 07:24 PM  6 years agoPost 7
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Page 15 of the manual V2.0. shows the nut.

Synergy N5C

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03-11-2012 07:45 PM  6 years agoPost 8
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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Were you not able to slide the boom clamp (with the boom installed) in from a 45 degree angle (towards the top rear) to avoid the PEM nut? You might have to slightly loosen up the rear bearing support to do this, but more than likely you can just slide it right into place.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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03-11-2012 11:49 PM  6 years agoPost 9
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Still had to clear the nut and land in the recess of the clamp. Just saying there has to be an easier way to design a better install. The problem I see is with the small anti rotation tabs on either side of the clamp.

Synergy N5C

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03-12-2012 12:01 AM  6 years agoPost 10
merlin3

rrKey Veteran

dayton, ohio

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The electrics don't have to deal with that nut but know what you're talking about. It's really not too hard once you get the hang of it, or you can break the plastic molding pin off the boom clamps, drill a small hole where it used to be, install clamp, slide boom in then use a small 2-3mm screw to lock boom in place. I've done that before. As for the main shaft, once you get used to the set screw and pin it's actually easier to remove then a bolt, just have to have the right tools and know what you are doing.

Justin - Team Horizon, Team Byron
2-700x, Trex 700n, small helis

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03-12-2012 04:11 AM  6 years agoPost 11
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Thanks for the tip merlin3. Can you tell me why the manual stresses using cyclic servo wheels with a max dimension center to center of 12.5mm to 13mm? What if I use a larger wheel? Thanks

Synergy N5C

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03-12-2012 05:52 AM  6 years agoPost 12
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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Is your helicopter flybarless or flybar?

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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03-12-2012 06:40 AM  6 years agoPost 13
Jason Bell

rrElite Veteran

California

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Thanks for the tip merlin3. Can you tell me why the manual stresses using cyclic servo wheels with a max dimension center to center of 12.5mm to 13mm? What if I use a larger wheel? Thanks
You definitely want to keep the geometry close if you are on a flybarred model. The bell cranks are a distance of 12.5mm from center of the CCPM shaft, to the center of the ball. The problem with using bigger servo wheels is that you will be increasing the speed of the bell cranks (think of adding negative expo on a JR/Spektrum radio, or positive expo on a Futaba/Hitec radio), but losing servo travel distances.

You may even run into horn distance problems if using anything greater than 13mm servo ball distance with the elevator and pitch servo on the pipe side of the Aurora Nitro, where the elevator servo may physically contact the pitch servo, depending on what servos you are using.

Now if you are on a flybarless model, then it is actually the exact opposite, most FBL units utilize smaller servo wheels to increase servo resolution by allowing the servo to move further in its range of movement to obtained the desired range of collective and cyclic pitch. The exception to this I have seen is the Total G, which I have seen use normal flybarred servo wheel distances and flies as good if not better than smaller servo wheels.

AMain.com
Mikado "V Team"
Xnova Motors
Optipower USA
RCProPlus

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03-12-2012 12:20 PM  6 years agoPost 14
gotnoclue

rrApprentice

sydney

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honestly if you think the aurora is the easiest heli on the market to repair you need to build some other helis, mine was nothing short of a pain in the ass, almost 50 screws per a side frame! why when other makers can do it with 20 or less? the flybarred head would break bits every crash, the threads were wear in the flybar barrier especially.
the frames liked to break in a crash as the skids would flex them in snapping the frame instead of breaking the skids, in 2 heavy crashes with mine (both due to parts breaking) it broke side frames but never did the skids.

you are right that it is a heli made for flying, it was probably the best flybarred heli i owned (vibe sg was i little cleaner) but i hated the substandard parts that were used on it then later upgraded to stronger designs but you still get told there was nothing wrong with the original design, need i mention the TT that used to twist up or just snap!

and before the American guys jump up and down the quality of components used between US kits and ones that went overseas were different, we got molded gears not CNC gears, we had gear stripping issues right through the whole heli, they bought out slightly larger gears but they were to big.
i am yet to meet anyone in Australia who has owned one and can honestly say they got more than 30 flights on it without breaking stuff, even our sponsered pilots constantly had issues with the airframes.

sorry my rant was longer than yours but that my view on this heli, looks good but

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03-12-2012 12:44 PM  6 years agoPost 15
hootowl

rrProfessor

Garnet Valley, Pa.

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I don't know what the big deal is about using pins and set screws to hold onto shafts. MA has used that design for many, many years. Easier in my opinion than a Jesus bolt. To remove it you back out the set screw and drive the pin out from the opposite side with a pin driver. You will notice higher end helis use this design. Vario uses those pins all over.

With MA you end up with two bolts clamping the head onto the shaft and a hardened pin for anti rotation instead of one bolt doing it all with j bolt designs.

The idea is to allow each component to do a specific task well and to spread the clamping for better alignment. Less chance of sloppy, rocking head over time.

Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep

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03-12-2012 05:56 PM  6 years agoPost 16
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Thanks guys. My Aurora is the Flybar version. I will use the standard (small) servo wheel. I'm using JR8717 servos for the cyclic. The guy who built the heli used the large servo wheel that came with the 8717. I was programming the radio and had a brain fart and stripped the spines on the nylon servo wheel on all three servos. DOH! The spacing on the large wheel was 27.35 mm. Which I thought was too much considering the manual calls for 12-12.5mm. Thanks again for the help guys.

Synergy N5C

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03-14-2012 02:36 AM  6 years agoPost 17
Jason Bell

rrElite Veteran

California

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Thanks guys. My Aurora is the Flybar version. I will use the standard (small) servo wheel. I'm using JR8717 servos for the cyclic. The guy who built the heli used the large servo wheel that came with the 8717. I was programming the radio and had a brain fart and stripped the spines on the nylon servo wheel on all three servos. DOH! The spacing on the large wheel was 27.35 mm. Which I thought was too much considering the manual calls for 12-12.5mm. Thanks again for the help guys.
Just to be clear, the manual states 12.5-13mm per side of the servo wheel, so a total distance of 25-26mm from ball to ball. It sounds like that is how you measured the original wheels (at least I hope that was ball to ball distance ).

AMain.com
Mikado "V Team"
Xnova Motors
Optipower USA
RCProPlus

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03-14-2012 03:54 AM  6 years agoPost 18
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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My bad. I reread the manual and it's 12.5-13mm center to ball. So the large wheels are correct. I need to be more careful reading. I do have another question. What do you think is an acceptable pitch range for normal and ST1&2. I primarily fly FAI with a little 3D. My engine is a YS91SR. Thanks

Synergy N5C

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03-14-2012 04:48 AM  6 years agoPost 19
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I don't know what everyone else is running, but I've got around +/-8 degrees of cyclic and +/-14 degrees of collective on mine. You probably don't want to go beyond that or you'll bog it. I would think if FAI is your goal, you'd want less.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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03-14-2012 05:56 AM  6 years agoPost 20
flyboynellor

rrApprentice

Windsor,California

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Thanks Justin. I'm more confused now then when I started setting the heli up. Is it me or is this heli the most confusing to set up? I've setup Trex, Synergy, MA, and Hirobo. This top them all. I have aileron Right=7 degrees. Left=8 degrees. Elevator up=9 degrees down=5.5 degrees. Doesn't seen right. My pitch curve in normal= L -7 degrees H +11 degrees. ST1&2= L -11.5 degrees H +12 degrees. I can't seem to get any more than 12 degrees or the top of the washout base hits the bottom of the delta head block. I bought this heli used and can't seem to get the numbers to match up. What am I missing? I do better with videos for setup. Any suggestions? Thanks for your patience.

Synergy N5C

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