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HomeScaleAircraftScale HeliScale Helicopter Main Discussion › Century AS350 clutch problem
03-07-2012 02:34 AM  6 years agoPost 1
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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I'm building a 600 size Century AS350 using the Century scale 3-blade mechanics with the electric conversion kit with the clutch. The power system is a Century 650A 800kv motor, 5000mAh 6s lipo and a Castle Ice 100A ESC. I'm using the upgraded metal clutch bell.

The problem I am having is the clutch does not seem to be holding. At 100% throttle I get about 1750 RPM and it holds fine. When I drop the head speed down to my desired 1500 RPM the clutch won't hold. It will spool up at low stick but when you pick up into a hover the the clutch starts slipping and the head speed decays.

Has anyone had success running this setup at 1500 RPM? I may try a thicker liner as the gap looks a little on the big side, the clutch itself looks fine. I'm also considering removing the clutch and going with a direct drive.

Any insight would be appreciated.

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03-07-2012 09:00 PM  6 years agoPost 2
nopost123

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Altenberge, Nordrheinwestfalen,G ermany

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Clutch damaged
Hello Joe
Just I read your message. Can you finish your damaged clutch with a second clutchlining. The clearance must be lower than 5/100mm. That is everytime enough for a electric engine. You do not need idle. A rotor head with three blades needs a high-torque drive.Your wise idea is real.

best regards

Norbert

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03-07-2012 09:21 PM  6 years agoPost 3
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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There's some really big scalers that use a clutch including Darrell's 43 lb Jet Ranger so what you're trying to do should be easy to accomplish.

To set the proper clutch gap the easiest thing is to install the liner with two wraps of electrical tape, butted end to end, not overlapped, on the clutch. Then use the clutch pushed into the bell while the glue is drying on the liner.

When the liner is dry, pull the clutch and remove the tape and you have a perfect clutch gap.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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03-07-2012 11:22 PM  6 years agoPost 4
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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Thanks for the information. For now I have decided to go with a direct drive. While the slow spool up is nice the clutch is just another possible failure point that can be eliminated.

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03-08-2012 02:25 AM  6 years agoPost 5
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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with the load from the multi bladed heads, you really need to run a motor speed that is higher in order to keep the clutch from slipping under load. i run the 800kv with the 12tooth pinion so as to get somewhat of a not so scary headspeed i had this issue at first with my 4 bladed mechs and tweaking the shoes just a smidgen so the fit is closer also helped. the metal bell is definately a good option as it wont melt from any heat created if slippage occurs.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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03-08-2012 06:34 AM  6 years agoPost 6
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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How did you tweak the clutch? Did you just gently bend the shoes outward slightly?

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03-08-2012 06:57 AM  6 years agoPost 7
nopost123

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Altenberge, Nordrheinwestfalen,G ermany

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Hello Joe
Can you install the clutch that it move against rolling direktion? You can transferred max torque with low rpm. So we needed it four the four- stroke engine.

best regards

Norbert

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03-09-2012 10:32 PM  6 years agoPost 8
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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How did you tweak the clutch? Did you just gently bend the shoes outward slightly?
yep, with a flat tip screw driver and very carefully, they wont go too far without breaking so be careful, its risky

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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03-12-2012 12:51 AM  6 years agoPost 9
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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Tweaking the clutch shoes helped a little but the problem still exists. The next time I have the mechanics apart I will change the pinion so the motor speed is higher. I don't feel like splitting the frames just for that so for now it's going to a direct drive.

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03-12-2012 06:03 PM  6 years agoPost 10
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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I don't feel like splitting the frames just for that so for now it's going to a direct drive.
theres no need to split the frames just to change the pinion, remove the main gear and the pinion is right there for the taking
my lakota had those issues but with the clutch tweaked and the metal bell used, the clutch's tempis cool to the touch after every flight.
if the clutch tweaking process isnt a prefered method, then a thincker clutch liner would do the trick. i used the predator liner once and machined it down til clearance is a fraction of a micron of a mm for good engagement. it may be the way i go from now on

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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03-13-2012 10:26 PM  6 years agoPost 11
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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theres no need to split the frames just to change the pinion, remove the main gear and the pinion is right there for the taking
That's good to know. The main gear didn't seem to want to come out with the frames together, guess I wasn't being clever enough.

My direct drive plans are being thwarted by a lack of 1100kv motors that fit. The Century motor is out of stock everywhere and none of the retailers I spoke with know when they will be in stock. Scorpion motors don't fit the mounting bracket in the electric conversion, the mounting hole spacing is different. The Turnigy 600H looks like it would work but I don't know if I would trust a $40 motor in my scale heli! I did manage to find a mod 1 26 tooth pinion that will match the gear ratio of the clutch and should work with the 800kv motor I have.

I'm probably over thinking all of this. The obvious solution is relining the clutch.

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03-14-2012 07:48 PM  6 years agoPost 12
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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a cuss word or two and the main gear will come out
i like the century motor mounrs, but i make my own and any motor will fit. very simnple, easy and cheap to make. unfortunately a motor with a 5mm shaft is ideal to use the pinions and clutch and i have machined an 8mm shaft down to 5mm to get it to work.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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03-14-2012 09:55 PM  6 years agoPost 13
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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I wish I had access to a machine shop, would make life so much simpler.

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03-15-2012 04:09 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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a mini lathe is a worthwhile investment, or becoming friends someone with one

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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03-17-2012 12:21 AM  6 years agoPost 15
JoeDiamond

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Chicago, IL

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I have it all working well with a direct drive. The Tekno RC 26t mod 1 pinion is a perfect match for the gear on the clutch bell and works great with the Century 800 KV motor on 6s. In the meantime I'll rework the clutch and try it again the next time I pull the mechanics out.

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