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› Best way to extend motor shaft?
03-06-2012 08:33 PM  6 years agoPost 1
trillian

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London, UK

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I'm curious what you guys think is the best way to deal with this.

In the photo below you can see the approximate position the motor will be in and where the shaft has to reach.

It probably needs 2 / 2.5 inches longer to get the pinion where it needs to be (and I'll have another bearing block below the pinion).

So the options are;
1. See about either finding a longer shaft or having one made and replacing the existing motor shaft entirely.

2. Have an extension machined that would attach to the existing motor shaft just as a pinion would, probably running down through the first bearing block at an OD of maybe 10mm and then stepping down to 6mm for the pinion.

The advantage of the separate extension piece is that if I change motors it's no biggie. The disadvantage is that there could be some runout but I can dial it in as much as possible and hopefully it would run smooth. I have seen a conversion where a prop adaptor was used as a shaft extension and that seemed to work OK.

So just curious what your thoughts are on how best to tackle this?

(the other thing is that I don't know if any longer shafts are available to fit the Align motor and I would think having a shaft custom made would be more difficult than having a separate extension made.)

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03-07-2012 01:58 PM  6 years agoPost 2
Egroeg

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Cyprus

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Can't you fit the motor through the bottom?
It seems to have a IC engine.
Can't you remove the engine and put the motor where the engine is?
I don't think it would be the best idea having your motor placed where you are holding it.

No Pitch...No Fun!

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03-07-2012 03:10 PM  6 years agoPost 3
trillian

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London, UK

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Can't you fit the motor through the bottom? -- Yes

It seems to have a IC engine. --- Yep, it does at the moment

Can't you remove the engine and put the
motor where the engine is? -- Yes, if I wanted to

I don't think it would be the best idea having your motor placed where you are holding it. --- Why ?

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03-07-2012 03:38 PM  6 years agoPost 4
helinutz

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Bournemouth, Dorset, UK

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Hi Trillian
I have done an electric conversion on a Dyna which is a conversion of the Robbe Millenium model you have there.
You can get the motor mount from RCMarket and its simple to remove all the clutch and gubbins etc and mount the motor from inside the frames.

>>>>>I'm so broke, I cant even pay attention!<<<<<

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03-07-2012 03:55 PM  6 years agoPost 5
trillian

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London, UK

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Hi helinutz,

I also have a Dyna-X.

What I am trying to do with the Milli conversion is preserve the big space between the frames for Lipo placement and also raise the C of G.

I know the easy way is to buy the motor mount from RC market and put the motor down in the frames.

With the Dyna-X you may as well do it that way because without the stacked frames you don't have the same space underneath as the original Milli frames and it's too narrow to put a Lipo in there anyway.

So how do you like it electric vs IC?

(I like that tiger stripe canopy in your gallery BTW)

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03-07-2012 07:14 PM  6 years agoPost 6
helinutz

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Bournemouth, Dorset, UK

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So how do you like it electric vs IC
What's IC?
Can understand about keeping the space for the packs. I actually think the Milly is a better option for conversion than the Dyna-X, but I'm thinking putting the motor on top, and having that much of a motor extension is asking for trouble and means you have to "over engeneer" the conversion.
I'm guessing 12S, so what about 1 6S behind and 1 6S infront of the motor
(hanging underneathe the radio tray)
Alternatively, the new logo Xxtreme has a central plate that you hang packs off either side. Could 2 carbon pltes be fitted that leaves the motor protected, and allows side hanging packs?
Havnt got a milly anymore, so trying hard to remeber all the possible mounting points.

>>>>>I'm so broke, I cant even pay attention!<<<<<

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03-07-2012 07:50 PM  6 years agoPost 7
trillian

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London, UK

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Yeah I have seen the Xxtremes and I know someone that did a Futura conversion using the saddle bag approach.

I think what I'll do is take out the engine and tank and see where the C of G ends up with two 6s 5000mah packs in various places and then decide.

What I am hoping for is to be able to slide them in from the back strapped to a tray so they both come out easily after a flight.

It's really not that big of a deal to put the motor on top and I think it would be interesting to see it done.

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03-07-2012 09:14 PM  6 years agoPost 8
R.J.

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SF bay area, CA USA

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If you want to raise the CG, it seems that the LiPos are much heavier than the motor. Raising the LiPos may have a larger effect than the motor on top.

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03-07-2012 09:37 PM  6 years agoPost 9
trillian

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London, UK

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"If you want to raise the CG, it seems that the LiPos are much heavier than the motor. Raising the LiPos may have a larger effect than the motor on top."

That's part of the reason for putting the motor on top, it allows more options on placement of the Lipos. The motor weighs 479 grams so not an insignificant bit of mass

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03-07-2012 10:04 PM  6 years agoPost 10
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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03-07-2012 10:06 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Chuck Bole

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Tulsa Ok. U.S.A.

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So you already have a way to mount the motor all figured out then?
Sdpi http://www.sdp-si.com/ sells couplings ect.. I used one on a Xero-G conversion years ago.

Put that on the exisiting motor shaft and use a 6MM shaft to extend it. As long as it's supported on the bottom with a bearing block it shouldn't be a problem.

Like always if you don't mind tinkering, and experimenting that is..

chuck

Team Synergy Field Representative / Scorpion / Thunder Power

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03-07-2012 10:24 PM  6 years agoPost 12
trillian

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London, UK

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Thanks Heli 770, I was not aware that a Scorpion shaft might fit other motors. The one I have is a 700M.

That's interesting cgbole, what kind of coupling did you use? Was it a flexible one?

The motor mount will be easy. I'll have a new bearing block made for the main shaft that just extends forward and serves as a motor mount. This will be quite sturdy and I can have a couple struts on the sides as well for a bit of added support.

There will be a lower bearing block under the pinion so it will be supported on both ends.

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03-07-2012 10:33 PM  6 years agoPost 13
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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The 700M also uses a 8mm. internal diameter shaft.

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03-08-2012 01:15 AM  6 years agoPost 14
Chuck Bole

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Tulsa Ok. U.S.A.

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Most Outrunners that size use a 8mm shaft through the bearings and are ground down to 6mm for the pinion. I used a SS sleeve 6mm ID.
About 20mm long with 2 set screws in it. Worked great.

chuck

Team Synergy Field Representative / Scorpion / Thunder Power

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03-08-2012 10:21 AM  6 years agoPost 15
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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Second what cgbole said. Use a precision coupler from SDPI, you can get what ever end sizes you need like 8mm on one end and 6mm on the other. I have personally used 8mm/5mm and 8mm/6mm. You can also get precision shafts from them as well. I would suggest that you don't go any smaller than 6mm for the shaft, my 4035-560 twiswted off a 5mm. DOH!

If you skip me I can't play!

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03-09-2012 05:05 PM  6 years agoPost 16
trillian

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London, UK

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coupler
Thanks for the suggestion on the coupler from SDPI. I will stick with the same shaft size as the motor as I already have the right pinion in that size.

It should be pretty simple really.

Once I get the coupler and extension shaft I'll bolt it together and check the runout at the tip with a dial guage and hopefully it can be manipulated to run fairly true.

The mesh will be set via the pinion bearing blocks and then the motor will just mount in the natural position above them when the right mesh is set.

I'm thinking out loud here, if I use the carbon Milli frame I'll have someone make up four aluminium plates to go on the outside for the bolts into the bearing blocks so they're not digging into the frame material.

If the pinion is really secure and the motor is really secure it should all be fine.

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