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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOHirobo SDX › SDX FBL head options
01-25-2012 11:33 AM  6 years agoPost 1
olaf

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poland

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What is better option for SDX FBL head?
Head from picture 1 or 2?

Olaf

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01-25-2012 06:58 PM  6 years agoPost 2
Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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That's a great question and I've thought about that myself.

Although I like the uncluttered look of using the long pivot ball to replace the Bell/Hiller mixing levers, I don't like the geometry.

The first picture probably means that you don't have to change the geometry on the servo wheels because the mixing levers will reduce the input (though I'd have to see that for myself as it's hard to visualize). The nice thing though is that the link remains at the intended alignment to the ball and isn't likely to pop off.

I'd go with number 1!

Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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01-25-2012 07:08 PM  6 years agoPost 3
payne1967

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uk

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you could always go back a model and fit the evo head
and do a fbl conversion like this one

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01-25-2012 11:32 PM  6 years agoPost 4
Agilefalcon

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Fort Worth, Texas

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Cool: I don't think you could get any simpler than that! The value of the old heads just took a jump!

I wish Hirobo would come out with an inexpensive conversion kit, or a head based on the SDX head (rather than the beautiful but expensive SL Flybarless head).

Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

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01-25-2012 11:51 PM  6 years agoPost 5
Hoggy42

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Australia

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I have one set up as picture no:2 no problems what so ever I did buy the new linkages from hirobo though they seem a bit stronger. Also remember the SDX head has a 8mm spindle the EVO head only has a 6mm spindle that I like many others have had bend in flight.

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01-26-2012 02:34 AM  6 years agoPost 6
ttrip06

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Central Pa

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I flew all last season with my head configured like picture 1. I did have to reduce the servo radius to 12mm with the Futaba 750 to get the numbers to work out. No other issues and I loved the way it flew. Best of all it cost 0 dollars. Picture 2 config always seemed to me like it would induce flex in the blade grip.

Tim Tripoli

Team Futaba, Rail Blades
Team Crash
ProggressiveRC

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01-26-2012 02:34 AM  6 years agoPost 7
Wyorcflyer

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Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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I like the simplicity of 2 because it is easier to reset up after a crash. Less to break, less to fix, set to 0 degrees pitch at center stick and you are back in the air.

The only thing I don't prefer about 2 is the fact that the swash driver is not part of the head nor indexed to the head.

Therefore we have option 3 with Dr. Ben's swash driver option and a single rod from the swash to the grip.

Jack

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01-27-2012 12:03 AM  6 years agoPost 8
rudyy

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E. Amherst, NY

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The first picture looks familiar to me.

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01-27-2012 05:06 AM  6 years agoPost 9
GootyS

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Gauteng South Africa

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I went with pic 2 as per Dom and its been working great. I used the Trex 600 washout base with SDX washout arms.

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01-28-2012 08:37 PM  6 years agoPost 10
olaf

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poland

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What lenhgt of this ball are You using

Olaf

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02-09-2012 11:59 PM  6 years agoPost 11
VDUBS

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Moorestown, New Jersey

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Length
Olaf,

I would make that as long as it needs to be in order to achieve an approx distance of 30mm from the center of the main shaft.

Kyle

Quicksilver

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02-10-2012 12:33 AM  6 years agoPost 12
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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Ball length will be dependent on the flybarless system. Use the shortest ball possible to satisfy the required stick deflection versus resulting cyclic pitch relationship for your chosen FBL controller. Excess ball length increases the chances for system flex from the excess length of the moment arm off the pitch arm.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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02-10-2012 09:55 AM  6 years agoPost 13
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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Picture #2 looks familiar too

BTW, I did that conversion and for more than a year already I haven't popped any ball link. I did crashed once and the first part to break (aside from the blades) was the grip... the grip was cheap though.

The FBL set-up (with Beastx) was strong enough for rough and hard 3D, our local hardcore fliers certified this and those 2mm links never bent, even without the 3mm CF tube reinforcement.

olaf: the ball stud used are the same ball stud as on the rear part of the stock SDX swashplate.

flex? yep there's a bit

SDX FBL | Eagle3 SWM | Trex 600EFL Pro

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02-10-2012 02:18 PM  6 years agoPost 14
kej

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Denmark

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I wonder how this flexing affects the feeling in flight?
Have anybody compared the plastic grips with the metal ones?

Kim Jensen

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02-10-2012 02:34 PM  6 years agoPost 15
rudyy

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E. Amherst, NY

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One thing I would like to point out. For picture #1, I am still using the big JR servo horn with ~12mm radii. For picture #2, I believe the radii needs to be decreased to ~9mm.

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02-11-2012 04:48 AM  6 years agoPost 16
VDUBS

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Moorestown, New Jersey

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ball length
The reason I said you wanted it 30mm out was because if you measure the distance on a stock SDX head from the center of the main shaft to where the ball links attach to the mixing arms it's 30mm. I didn't just pull that number out of thin air and was using it as a general starting point.

Kyle

Quicksilver

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02-11-2012 07:47 AM  6 years agoPost 17
olaf

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poland

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I am using BeastX.

Olaf

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03-01-2012 08:43 PM  6 years agoPost 18
rudyy

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E. Amherst, NY

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olaf, so which option do you go for at the end?

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03-02-2012 03:30 PM  6 years agoPost 19
olaf

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poland

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Now from picture 2. Now i am setup BeastX.

Olaf

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