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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Geez are all power switches garbage ?
01-25-2012 07:19 PM  6 years agoPost 21


Conecticut - USA

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There is no real answer, just what you want to do. There are many switches out there that work just fine, Duralite and Perfect Regulator along with Futaba/JR (don't know about the Spektrum ones) switches that are heavy duty and work well.
I not really looking for a specific answer. Most of the switches I have tried are on the edge of "works" and seemed inadequate. I was looking for better solutions\parts.

Out of this, a good conversation started. It really seems standard mechanical switches are on the fringes of obsolesance as our power demands increase (Based on the dicussion in this thread). Some have eliminated them all together.

I am not totaly convinced I want to eliminate a power switch just yet personaly.

My design requirments are:
1) 6v Power system capable of 6 Amps
2) less than .4 volt ripple at the RX when loading\driving servos (preferably 0v really)
a)Required for accurate telemery alerting.
b)Minimizes brownout risks
3) Ease of use, Safe use
4) low failure risk

I am balancing between using solid state switching and going switchless.

I will likely buy a Safe switch 2

and a Rx voltage stabilizer

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

01-25-2012 11:30 PM  6 years agoPost 22

rrKey Veteran

Fort Worth, Texas

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My vote is for Perfect Regulators, Safe Switch II and Safe Switch Duo. I use both and can vouch for their suitability. Plus, they are made here in the US.

Matt supports the product 100% and is very responsive to emails and calls.

They are perfect for small flybarless systems where you need to go in through a couple of JR connectors to supply the internal buss.

Chris Berardi
Team BobbyJack's Hobbies

01-26-2012 12:10 AM  6 years agoPost 23
Wayne Parrish



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astro-g, I use HD JR switches and have never had a problem. If I crash a heli,unless its just a tip-over type,I replace the switches,leads,and send the servos/receivers back to have them checked out. I have found it cheaper to make sure the components are ok'd by JR rather than taking pot luck and destroying something else. WP

01-26-2012 01:42 AM  6 years agoPost 24


Des Moines, Iowa

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There are a few tolerable switches out there. For a dependable mechanical switch, something like the Smart-Fly Super Switch or the ED high load Ultra Switch can get the job done. Both of these switches feature redundant contacts, Deans plug input with HD wire and (2) connector leads to the receiver. Either of these switches will handle the required current with minimal voltage drop ... even with large, high current servos. Well within the requirements stated in this thread. A big plus is the (2) leads to the receiver as no single lead can handle the current requirements of our modern servos. The Fromeco Badger electronic switch is also up to the task but again, be sure to use the dual receiver leads and the optional Deans battery connector. As mentioned earlier, the JR HD switch is a good one but lacks adequate cable size and the 2nd receiver power lead. A heavier battery lead and 2nd receiver lead couble be added and this would be a good combination, maybe the best of the lot as the switch itself is top quality. As far as other mechanical switches the large Hitec switch is a good one but very similar to the JR in all respects. Futaba's HD switch looks very good but again, lacks the 2nd receiver lead ... but cable sizes are adequate.

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01-26-2012 05:30 PM  6 years agoPost 25

rrKey Veteran

Farmington, CT

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I've been using either the HD Futaba or HD JR switches on my machines for as long as I've been in this hobby.

Never had an issue. If you really want some extra wire to split the power, look at the Spektrum Dual in/Dual out HD switch.

Team Align, Team Futaba, Team Byron Fuels, Team Thunder Power

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