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HomeAircraftHelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Geez are all power switches garbage ?
01-23-2012 08:35 PM  6 years agoPost 1
taxus812

rrApprentice

Conecticut - USA

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Im building a new bird with a straight 6v setup. (using an A123 battery ). I noticed that when I plug batt directly into the RX and cycle the sticks I can get a momentary voltage drop up to .4 volts.
(measured using telemetry and looking at the gy701 display)

When I put an on/off switch inline I can see drops of up to 1.2 volts. (24 gauge wire should handle up to 6Amps @ 6.6 volts with very little loss)

What switches do you use? Are there any solid state switches out there ?

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

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01-23-2012 08:40 PM  6 years agoPost 2
Wayne Parrish

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Apex,NC,USA

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I use all JR charge/switches and have never had a problem with one . WP

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01-24-2012 10:59 AM  6 years agoPost 3
astro-g

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Wellington, New Zealand

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Wayne

Do you use the JR heavy duty switch? or the standard one?

The heavy-duty is allright, but the standard is awful.

Beating the air into submission

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01-24-2012 12:10 PM  6 years agoPost 4
semper_fish

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Orlando, FL

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On my nitros I use an Align 2 in 1. Acts as a switch, regulator and onboard glow.

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01-24-2012 12:38 PM  6 years agoPost 5
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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I am eliminating all of my "switches", regulators and LiPo packs in favor of LiFe packs and Deans connectors for the switch. On the electrics, it is a pieces of cake since the canopy is removed every time. On the nitro's and gasser, I still need to figure out reasonable access without pulling the canopy. In the end, it error proofs, reduces wiring and is less expensive, now that is a win, win, win.

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01-24-2012 12:50 PM  6 years agoPost 6
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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I love the switch in my Fromeco regulators.

  

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01-24-2012 01:45 PM  6 years agoPost 7
Flying Brian

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St. Clairsville, Ohio

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Heavy duty JR switch here...

"I just don't Listen" "

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01-24-2012 01:49 PM  6 years agoPost 8
CX1

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Canada

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I stopped using switches a couple years ago. now I just unplug battery when not in use.

" Team Protoast "

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01-24-2012 02:40 PM  6 years agoPost 9
Wingman77

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Pulaski Tennessee

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I have also quit using any kind of switches

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01-24-2012 04:30 PM  6 years agoPost 10
taxus812

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Conecticut - USA

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I am leaning that way as well. I connected the Life A123 bat pack to the RX by a deans connector and to two jr male plugs (real short lead).

I can see momentary voltage dips of about .4 to .5 (recorded via telemetry). If I go across a switch via 24 gauge wire, I see dips of over 1 volt.

Even with this large momentary drop it is not a concern.
Even using a depleted LiFe battery (only in testing) and using a switch with one 24 gauge power lead, I never see a voltage dip that gets anywhere near a brown out voltage. So there shouldn't be any issue with that. Since the dips are monetary I willing to be the servos don't even show any perceivable impacts.

Where it is driving me nuts is the false alerts generated on the RX because it momentarily drops below my alert voltage. It generates a sort of chirp. To get rid of the chirps and not reducing or eliminating the voltage drop I would have to set the alert voltage very low and it would really make any monitoring impractical.

So far all of the inline switches I have used, produced large voltage swings when under load.

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

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01-24-2012 05:17 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Santiago P

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South West, Ohio

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Where it is driving me nuts is the false alerts generated on the RX because it momentarily drops below my alert voltage. It generates a sort of chirp. To get rid of the chirps and not reducing or eliminating the voltage drop I would have to set the alert voltage very low and it would really make any monitoring impractical.
Welcome to the world of impractical telemetry (prefer the word useless). If it can't handle the voltage ripple, then it is unusable for a low voltage alarm. Unless the system has a smart logic that can discern high and low spikes, it will generate false alarms all day long.

Every connection, including a crappy switch contributes to the ripple.
Minimizing the amount of connections will help. Use no less than 22gage wire for J connectors. Most folks I know NO LONGER USE Switches.
IMO, The ability to generate a data log is much more useful tool than telemetry.

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01-24-2012 06:18 PM  6 years agoPost 12
taxus812

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Conecticut - USA

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I guess chirpies is not curable yet

I emailed spektrum but I'm not expecting a response. Adding a simple timer to the alert should do the trick. If voltage stays below x limit for y seconds then alert (sounds to much like algebra ). If voltage rises above limit reset count.

I won't hold me breath :@

I'm just going to have to build my own switch with 18 gauge wire and short runs to minimiz

I was also thinking about one of these
http://www.perfectregulators.com/in...7&product_id=75

Simple capacitor at the RX. It may stabilize the voltage enough to stop the Chirps.

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

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01-24-2012 06:45 PM  6 years agoPost 13
ticedoff8

rrKey Veteran

Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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How about 0-loss?

Maxx Products Arming Switch - 6970 or 6972.

Got it from the local hobby shop.
I ran it between my LiPo and a regulator - the regulator didn't have an on/off switch, so the arming switch became my on/off for the flight pack

http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/ma...970_5400546.htm

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html

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01-24-2012 07:15 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Paulo Lopes

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South Africa

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I just plug my life batt into rx.
Less connections, less chance of trouble.

"The things which are impossible with men are possible with God."

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01-24-2012 11:36 PM  6 years agoPost 15
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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taxus812, this is a good thread. The switch manufacturers are so behind the times. They must still think we use analog servos with about 30 oz-in of torque. I take my switches apart and resolder with heavier gauge wire and Deans connectors. The straight plug, either Deans or PowerPole will work great too.

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01-25-2012 01:59 PM  6 years agoPost 16
taxus812

rrApprentice

Conecticut - USA

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So I found this thread that seems interesting.

https://rc.runryder.com/t607152p1/

Justin Stuart was using a remote switch from perfect regulator with a homeade pin flag (two years old).

I would be really interested in

1) how it worked out.
2) is there much loss with this remote switch

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

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01-25-2012 02:21 PM  6 years agoPost 17
fastflyer20

rrKey Veteran

N. Tonawanda, NY

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That thread pretty much sums it up, there are a few fail safe regulators/switch combo, Perfect Regulator, Fromeco Arizona and Sahara, AR7100, maybe more. It is a nice option, but it is still electronics that can have a problem. The ultimate way to prevent a switch or regulator failure is to not use them!

1) I had one Fromeco fail, the other was fine (still using it).
2) There is no power loss

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01-25-2012 03:46 PM  6 years agoPost 18
kcordell

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O Fallon, MO

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Switch failures used to be quite common back in the 'old days' of nicads. Why? Because guys wanted to fast charge their nicads, not a problem, but doing so thru the switch can be a problem. The contacts in the switch just weren't made for exessive (2 amps or more) charging. After failure, you could take one of those switches apart and the contacts were burned. Now I know you will say 'we are drawing in exess of 2 amps now on our servos' but you're not drawing it thru the switch.
Agreed, another component is another potential point of failure.
That's one thing that makes the Duralite switches nice, if the switch fails, it fails on. Actually did see this happen once to a very prominent pilot. After the flight, model was sitting on the table, model starting twitching. Switch was off, but if he turned the radio on he had full control. It was a Duralite switch (with regulator). Took it apart and the contacts were shot.

Team Futaba, Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, Team Castle Creations, YS Engines, VelTye

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01-25-2012 03:59 PM  6 years agoPost 19
taxus812

rrApprentice

Conecticut - USA

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Ill have to research Duralite switches.

Going switchless, isn't pulling the canopy off everytime you fly a big PIA. I know on my Titan X50 it is a real PIA and I dont think it was intened to be removed that much.

Man is so anxious about his future that he does not enjoy the present. - Dalai Lama

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01-25-2012 05:07 PM  6 years agoPost 20
kcordell

rrElite Veteran

O Fallon, MO

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Easy solution to having to remove the canopy is run a servo extension from the RX out of the canopy and have your RX pack close enough to reach, then just connect the two. But now you have another connection that can go bad/disconnect. There is no real answer, just what you want to do. There are many switches out there that work just fine, Duralite and Perfect Regulator along with Futaba/JR (don't know about the Spektrum ones) switches that are heavy duty and work well.
One thing to think about, for the cost of a standard switch, I replace them every year. $15 bucks or less is pretty cheap insurance. As far as the regulator types go, I haven't had any issues with Duralite over 15 years of use and no issues with the 2 years I have been using a Perfect Regulator with switch.

Team Futaba, Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, Team Castle Creations, YS Engines, VelTye

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HomeAircraftHelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Geez are all power switches garbage ?
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