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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerial Photography and Video Docs  T-Rex 800e cameraship build
01-27-2012 03:45 PM  6 years agoPost 41
Stephen Born

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USA

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I am now in the process of buying 800mm blades and extending the tailboom to accomodate. I will post pictures here shortly.

I will soon have a T-Rex 800!

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01-27-2012 04:16 PM  6 years agoPost 42
TECO

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WARWICK RI, USA

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Yeah, do that please, I want to do the same on mine

"Never argue with an idiot - he'll drag you down to his level and beat you with experience

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01-27-2012 04:20 PM  6 years agoPost 43
HUTCH964

rrKey Veteran

Taylor,Texas 76574 local airport T74

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Nice machine AerialSkyCam.....

.

Tim

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01-27-2012 04:22 PM  6 years agoPost 44
Stephen Born

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USA

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Yeah, do that please, I want to do the same on mine
I'll keep you posted on this build thread.
Nice machine AerialSkyCam.....
Thanks!

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01-28-2012 02:43 AM  6 years agoPost 45
Zapataantonio

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Puerto rico

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Looking foward to see the 800 trex. Thanks

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01-28-2012 02:37 PM  6 years agoPost 46
Evan03

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Idaho

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AerialSkyCam

does the want to be bigger ever end. after hanging out here and attempting aerial vid with my 600 nitro ive been kinda eyeing the 700 e kits. but money keeps that from happening so i was thinkn to strectch the 600. then i asked myself why what is the reason for the strecth is it to be more stable, more lift, more efficient. i couldnt answer my own question.

your 700 camera ship is something i can only dream about it would be cool just to look at the thing and say i built that. you are awesome and building something so clean and realible isnt easy. ive been watching ap aerial set up vids on youtube and there are alot of camera rigs that resemble more a rats nest then a helicopter. you do awesome work and am looking forward to seeing your new 800 and footage from your bird.

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01-28-2012 03:08 PM  6 years agoPost 47
Stephen Born

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USA

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Thank you for the kind words.

I am using heavy camera equipment, so I will need the extra lift. The blades I have now are 710mm. I just purchased 800mm blades which are 3 1/2 in longer than the current. This will give 7 inches total rotor span than what I have now.

I also purchased the extended tail boom. This boom is 5 inches longer than the original T-Rex 700e tail boom. Enough clearance for the main rotors.

I have the Scott Gray Reactor X2 regulator on the way along with a Hyperion 3300mAh 7.4 2s battery to power the electronics.

So now it is the waiting game until all the parts trickle in. As each unit comes in, I will keep you guys posted.

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01-28-2012 03:17 PM  6 years agoPost 48
Stephen Born

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USA

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then i asked myself why what is the reason for the strecth is it to be more stable, more lift, more efficient. i couldnt answer my own question.
A 600 stretch to a 700 will be more stable. Longer blades giving more lift. However, stability is relative. Bigger is better, but there are MANY factors for stability. Are the blades symetrical? Semi-symetrical? Weight / width of blades. Those are just a few. I can sell you a T-Rex 700 if you would like. No, it's not my AP bird.

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01-29-2012 01:56 AM  6 years agoPost 49
Zapataantonio

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Puerto rico

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Aerial sky please send me more info on the blades you are selling. Thanks

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01-29-2012 02:11 AM  6 years agoPost 50
Stephen Born

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USA

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Will do.

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01-29-2012 02:40 AM  6 years agoPost 51
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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Landing Gear
Would you please share where you purchased the landing gear, the model, price, etc.

Thanks,

Robert

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01-29-2012 02:45 AM  6 years agoPost 52
Stephen Born

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USA

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Sure! I bought the landing gear from PhotoshipOne. It is for scale models. I paid around 35.00 - 40.00 I believe. Gives enough clearance for the gimbal and are made extremely well. There are pre-drilled holes that will facilitate attachment. I know the owner very well. His name is DJ and he is a super nice guy with great customer service.

I hope this helps Robert.

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01-29-2012 01:47 PM  6 years agoPost 53
Zapataantonio

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Puerto rico

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HELLO, I BELIEVE MY TREX DONT HAVE THE MOUNT FOR THE GYRO ON THE FRONT WHERE DID YOU BUY IT? I HAVE THE HC3-SX THAT WILL GO THERE, WAS IT EASY TO CONFIGURE THE HELICOMMAND HC3-SX IS THERE A TREX 700E PROGRAM THAT YOU INSTALL THRU THE USB? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

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01-29-2012 03:20 PM  6 years agoPost 54
Stephen Born

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USA

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HELLO, I BELIEVE MY TREX DONT HAVE THE MOUNT FOR THE GYRO ON THE FRONT WHERE DID YOU BUY IT? I HAVE THE HC3-SX THAT WILL GO THERE, WAS IT EASY TO CONFIGURE THE HELICOMMAND HC3-SX IS THERE A TREX 700E PROGRAM THAT YOU INSTALL THRU THE USB? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
I cut the front mount in half but made sure to cut around the gyro mounting plate. It is not "easy" to set up the HeliCommand HC3-SX. It is a system that requires sound knowledge. Go to the forum titled " Flybarless Systems". There are several topics already created regarding the HeliCommand system.

Here is a pic of the front mount. Notice the gyro mounting plate was cut around. It is imperative that there is no deviation in degrees when setting up the HC3-SX. It has to be mounted straight to the rotor head / main shaft. If it is not straight, the HeliCommand will not hold properly, and has the potential to tip.

The HC3-SX has several features allowing the use of stable AP posiible. If the heli is not stable in the air, let go of the sticks. It will level out horizontally. In addition, it has the "bail out" option. With all the FBL systems out there, BeastX, V-Bar, 3GX,..etc... the HC3-SX is top notch. They say "you get what you pay for". If that is the case, I could buy 3 BeastX for the price of 1 HeliCommand.

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01-29-2012 05:54 PM  6 years agoPost 55
Stephen Born

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USA

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Thanks Splitboarder for your suggestion. At this point in the build, I do not know if I will move the gimbal back or not. As soon as it is stretched to the 800, I will do a test run.

I just bought 800mm blades and the extended tail boom, so removed all the components this morning.

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01-30-2012 05:42 PM  6 years agoPost 56
Evan03

rrVeteran

Idaho

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AerialSkyCam

im realy dign your setup , how much anntivibration to the shocks provide they look like 1/8 scale or bigger shocks. do the shockes compress much under the camera load.

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01-30-2012 07:02 PM  6 years agoPost 57
Stephen Born

rrElite Veteran

USA

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As you can see from the picture below, there are 3 holes in which the springs can be mounted. The higher you go the higher the front mount tube system wil go.

If you use a heavier camera, you can either turn the spring loader knobs to tighten or loosen, which will increase load capacity so there is no "bottoming out". In addition, you can remove the springs, pull them, and reasemble. This will increase the load spring capacity also.

Evan, I hope this helps you!

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01-30-2012 11:48 PM  6 years agoPost 58
Zapataantonio

rrNovice

Puerto rico

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Aeroskycam thanks for all your help.

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01-31-2012 12:48 AM  6 years agoPost 59
Evan03

rrVeteran

Idaho

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i see the 3 holes. can also slide the spring mounts forward or back for less dampening to kinda fine tune the antivibration. sliding them towards the camera would make them stiffer and back softer

thats sweet pic of the springs to. thanks for reply

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01-31-2012 01:01 AM  6 years agoPost 60
Stephen Born

rrElite Veteran

USA

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can also slide the spring mounts forward or back for less dampening to kinda fine tune the antivibration. sliding them towards the camera would make them stiffer and back softer
Exactly. This is where "fine-tuning" the mount occurs. Moreover, the lord dampeners contribute for a reduction of vibration. When setting up vibration free cameraship, there are many factors. Just go through the heli, fly, watch the video, and make adjustments. Then do it all over again...

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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerial Photography and Video Docs  T-Rex 800e cameraship build
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