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Miniature Aircraft Whiplash & Furion 6
› A few things I found with the Whiplash
11-18-2011 01:16 AM  6 years agoPost 101
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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Has MinAir put a manual online for this helicopter yet?

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11-18-2011 01:22 AM  6 years agoPost 102
Linkdead

rrNovice

Indianapolis, IN

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11-18-2011 01:54 AM  6 years agoPost 103
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I looked at the manual. It seems to me that from a cooling perspective, you'd definitely want to mount the ESC at the location over the tail boom. Does nobody want to mount their ESC there because of the balance issue? And I am still confused about how you're supposed to get the batteries inside the frame. If you have Velcro on the top of the inner channel, do you need some sort of tool to separate the battery from the top plate when you're trying to remove it? Maybe battery installation is easier in person than it looks in the pictures?

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11-18-2011 01:57 AM  6 years agoPost 104
eo19

rrApprentice

Newberry, FL

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And I am still confused about how you're supposed to get the batteries inside the frame. If you have Velcro on the top of the inner channel, do you need some sort of tool to separate the battery from the top plate when you're trying to remove it? Maybe battery installation is easier in person than it looks in the pictures?
It wouldn't be any different than trying to remove packs out a Logo frame.

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11-18-2011 02:20 AM  6 years agoPost 105
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Mine is now at least ready for test.

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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11-18-2011 02:31 AM  6 years agoPost 106
eo19

rrApprentice

Newberry, FL

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Very nice.

I do like Bobby's tray design. With the tray in his proposed position it gives me enough room to mount my Hobbywing (which is slightly too wide to fit between the frames) on top of the tray.

My problem is I can't get it to print properly in the 1:1 scale. The box itself has different dimensions vertically and horizontally.

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11-18-2011 02:32 AM  6 years agoPost 107
hams

rrApprentice

Ohio

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Maybe battery installation is easier in person than it looks in the pictures?
Battery installation and removal isn't that bad really. Not as easy as some other helis, but not horrible.

You put them in from the back of the frames and fish them to the front.

Hey bobby,

Will a frame revision be offered in the future or is it too early to ask?

thanks

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11-18-2011 02:45 AM  6 years agoPost 108
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Very nice.
I do like Bobby's tray design. With the tray in his proposed position it gives me enough room to mount my Hobbywing (which is slightly too wide to fit between the frames) on top of the tray.
My problem is I can't get it to print properly in the 1:1 scale. The box itself has different dimensions vertically and horizontally.
Problem is to fit straps though, with Hyperion 35C/5000 I could not fit 2 packs with a tilted tray since the front pack is far up front the last two straps do nothing.

Depends on what pack you use, but for me it was a requirement.

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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11-18-2011 02:45 AM  6 years agoPost 109
benben

rrVeteran

Taipei

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I am mounting my CC160HV on the rear location on top of the boom. However I had to mount the esc a bit higher to clear the tail swing arm.

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11-18-2011 02:59 AM  6 years agoPost 110
Bobby Watts

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Orlando, FL

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At this point, I doubt a frame revision will be made, but I am sure we will put in the added holes to make the tray on a slanted angle. If we do a revised frame, that just causes all sorts of trouble for guys trying to get parts down the line. We were looking for the most cost effective, least invasive way of doing it.
My problem is I can't get it to print properly in the 1:1 scale. The box itself has different dimensions vertically and horizontally.
aahhh... Just noticed that some of that box got clipped when exporting to PDF.. DOH!!! Ill try to get that fixed and re- uploaded. The vertical portion of the box is still 1"

Mr.Mel... that looks quite nice as well!

Bobby

www.bobbywatts.com

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11-18-2011 03:10 AM  6 years agoPost 111
eo19

rrApprentice

Newberry, FL

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aahhh... Just noticed that some of that box got clipped when exporting to PDF.. DOH!!! Ill try to get that fixed and re- uploaded. The vertical portion of the box is still 1"
Well, now I don't feel like a complete moron!

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11-18-2011 04:02 AM  6 years agoPost 112
blurz28

rrApprentice

usa

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heres your solution
I took the frame nuts out and redrilled holes for the servo to be mounted horizontally cut some of the frame and done....
The frame nuts are a press fit so just drill a hole the same size as the old one...
Took about 30 minutes. Only thing I can think of making this better is a battery tray to be 90mm longer

3,2,1,...+1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14...

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11-18-2011 04:09 AM  6 years agoPost 113
hams

rrApprentice

Ohio

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heres your solution
I took the frame nuts out and redrilled holes for the servo to be mounted horizontally cut some of the frame and done....
This is what I plan on doing this weekend. It just looks better and keeps the batteries in the same position.

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11-18-2011 04:18 AM  6 years agoPost 114
blurz28

rrApprentice

usa

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I think it looks much nicer
And I can't figure why they designed it with the servo on an angle unless it just looked good.... but horizontal is perfect. Allows for a lot of movement of the batteries for/aft....
I forgot to mention I left the lower of the 2 upper frame nuts as my reference..... and consequently I did not have to change a thing as far as the rod length from servo to rear bellcrank.

3,2,1,...+1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14...

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11-18-2011 04:26 AM  6 years agoPost 115
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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Looks like stock. Nice work.

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11-18-2011 04:32 AM  6 years agoPost 116
hams

rrApprentice

Ohio

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I plan on moving the servo back just enough to allow for all 4 blind nuts to be installed and just trim the pushrod.

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11-18-2011 04:34 AM  6 years agoPost 117
blurz28

rrApprentice

usa

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thanks
Now that I look at it I may drill some holes and move the battery tray forward about 75mm and cut a slit opposite the old servo hole and make that the front strap position so i still have 4 straps in use
One would think it would be simple to edit the cad program and just rotate that particular servo using the lower of the top 2 existing blind nuts and make it a rev 2

3,2,1,...+1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14...

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11-18-2011 04:39 AM  6 years agoPost 118
hams

rrApprentice

Ohio

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Sounds like a good plan.

The only downside I can see is that we will definitely have to pull the canopy to strap the front battery in now. I am out of town and can't check, any chance you could verify?
One would think it would be simple to edit the cad program and just rotate that particular servo using the lower of the top 2 existing blind nuts and make it a rev 2
We are still in the very early life of this heli. One would think it wouldn't take long to filter out all the original frames for the new one? The way I have been flying I will probably needing some new frames soon anyway

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11-18-2011 04:45 AM  6 years agoPost 119
blurz28

rrApprentice

usa

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next thing I'm gonna work on is.....
A battery tray that slides in and out and can be removed without taking off the canopy.

3,2,1,...+1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14...

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11-18-2011 04:49 AM  6 years agoPost 120
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I'm kind of surprised MinAir had this helicopter for a long time, but now all of a sudden after it was released everyone is complaining about the rudder servo and battery tray. I wonder if Bobby was the only one testing the prototype? You really need a bunch of pilots to try out the prototype with their own equipment to ensure these last minute changes are not required. Either that or sell the kit complete with ESC, motor, lipos, etc. MinAir might want to keep this incident in mind before they release the other two Whiplash versions.

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