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Miniature Aircraft Whiplash & Furion 6
› A few things I found with the Whiplash
11-17-2011 02:05 AM  6 years agoPost 61
eo19

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Newberry, FL

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11-17-2011 02:56 AM  6 years agoPost 62
eddiscus

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Dumont, NJ-USA

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At the point of assembly with one side frame together. Tipping the back of the battery plate up and front down while sliding it forward should work fine. Just have to re slot the side frames for the battery straps.

Will try the stock location with my components and see how it balances out. Has Bobby's fix leaked out yet.

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11-17-2011 03:17 AM  6 years agoPost 63
MichiganFlyer

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Lansing,MI

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Loking at my Whippy it looks like you could get a 1/4" forward with your batteries doing that.
Not worried though mine balances.

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11-17-2011 04:00 AM  6 years agoPost 64
MichiganFlyerrrElite Veteran - Lansing,MI - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

BTW
Here is the battery plate to rudder servo pic that was requested.

Friends don't encourage friends to fly helis! It can cause part shortages.

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11-17-2011 04:22 AM  6 years agoPost 65
MichiganFlyer

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Lansing,MI

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New drilled holes will solve this problem. The battery plate will move forward and be on an angle.Raise the tail of the tray and drop the front. the vertical weight of the heli wouldn't change by much if any. I bet know one could tell.
So the bateries COG drops maybe a 1/2". This would make the heli balancable for ever concievable battery. This will make it clear the rudder servo.

Friends don't encourage friends to fly helis! It can cause part shortages.

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11-17-2011 04:29 AM  6 years agoPost 66
MichiganFlyer

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Lansing,MI

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Who ever said battery trays had to be parralel to the ground?

Friends don't encourage friends to fly helis! It can cause part shortages.

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11-17-2011 04:40 AM  6 years agoPost 67
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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I'm still waiting to see how MrMel and Mr. Dremel adjust the CG.

...but for what it's worth, it has been my experience that a good FBL system can electronically fix a slightly off center CG.

I am curious how you get the lipos inside the frame? There is no tray, right? So how do you get them inside? Do you put Velcro on the bottom of that long internal lipo tray?

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11-17-2011 05:09 AM  6 years agoPost 68
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Moving tray or servo is probably what's needed.

And it's really needed, since one thing to point out, looking at Bobby's and Pumas helis, this much extension on the battery cables is not ok, not by a long shot, it WILL kill the ESC (unless you add a board with caps), and if you have a Jive and the guys in Germany sees this, they will probably even put it out of warranty.

https://rc.runryder.com/gallery/72278/IMAG0935.jpg

so, ESC probably has to go inside the frame to keep the battery cables at correct length, and that means even more requirement for packs going forward.

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11-17-2011 06:05 AM  6 years agoPost 69
strokermtr

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Baltimore, MD

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Only had a couple of flights on the Jive it is not on there anymore, it was a friends, I have a hw that is going on there.

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11-17-2011 06:18 AM  6 years agoPost 70
Taipan

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Sydney, Australia

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The above pic shows a short link inbetween the 2 connectors in order to connect the lipos in series. This made me think that a 6S heli has much shorter lipo leads than a 12S heli using 2x 6S lpos & having 2 sets of leads to deal with, one set per lipo. Even so, a 12S stick would have long wires inside running from one end to the other.

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11-17-2011 06:32 AM  6 years agoPost 71
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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True stick packs do not exist anymore due to shipping regulations, but they actually had less cable since only one went all the way.
For packs now when i build my own 12 sticks i add about 3 inches which i have found works, even 4 but that is pretty much as far as i go.

Its not an instant kill of the esc, its damaging the caps overtime, but a blown cap midflight can result in catastrophic failure.

Wire size does not matter.
(it matter for ripple voltage but not the induction caused by long wires)

There is a long writeup on this at RCG, will see if i can find the link.

Edit; here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
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11-17-2011 12:09 PM  6 years agoPost 72
dhoffack

rrApprentice

lanham, md, MHA member

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if your esc wire is going to be that long you need to add a cap pack or something similar http://www.castlecreations.com/prod...c-cap-pack.html

Even with the cap pack, castle still recommends the esc wire have no more than 8 inches in total length.

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11-17-2011 12:09 PM  6 years agoPost 73
Wave

rrKey Veteran

Illinois

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Moving tray or servo is probably what's needed.

And it's really needed, since one thing to point out, looking at Bobby's and Pumas helis, this much extension on the battery cables is not ok, not by a long shot, it WILL kill the ESC (unless you add a board with caps), and if you have a Jive and the guys in Germany sees this, they will probably even put it out of warranty.
Hey...no bashing now.

The design was carefully planned.

Its what they call a builders kit.

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11-17-2011 12:36 PM  6 years agoPost 74
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Back to CoG,

Depending on what packs you use it ranges pretty much in terms of how much issue you have, with Hyperion 35C/6s/5000 packs its almost impossible, packs would need to be banging against RX tray underside and you run into trouble with straps ain't in the right place.
(with servo moved)
Pretty much same issue with lighter Gens Ace 4000 packs.
Hyperion 12s4500 sticks I could get it to work sort of, I will need to find a way to get new straps in there.

I was almost thinking about something like this instead.

Then I could move the servo in the back even.
Dont know, just toying with the idea.[I]

But this is probably what I end up doing;
No need to move the servo, I just need to order 3 x frame spacers which I put in the old battery plate position, and then drill a few holes for the new battery plate to sit an inch above the bottom plate.

Net effect is that pack will be less than an half an inch lower, which I doubt anyone could feel.

And the difference compared to lowering the plate but keeping it above packs is now I have more freedom to use the straps around the bottom.

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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11-17-2011 01:18 PM  6 years agoPost 75
eo19

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Newberry, FL

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Will the tray be strong enough to strap the batteries to now that you won't have the slots in the tray for the straps?

I like this idea as I think I would be able to mount my hobbywing on it's side on the inside of one of the side frames. Then I would have to lengthen the lines do much to reach the packs.

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11-17-2011 01:25 PM  6 years agoPost 76
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Will the tray be strong enough to strap the batteries to now that you won't have the slots in the tray for the straps?
When I tested I used longer lockstraps around the whole bottom instead, that I think works for sure.

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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11-17-2011 01:40 PM  6 years agoPost 77
eo19

rrApprentice

Newberry, FL

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Buy the frame spacers to leave in the existing tray mount holes. MA128-58 frame spacers are $6.59 for a 2 pack. The tray mounts MA128-57 are $8.99 for 1.

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11-17-2011 01:43 PM  6 years agoPost 78
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Might only need one.. I was thinking about re-using the two in the bottom (spacers) and move them up.. will need to play with this a bit to see how the strength of the frame turns out.

One other thing, I will swap the button head bolts for the battery tray with counter-sunk screws (and grind out the CF a little so they are flat on the tray) since the button ones already almost teared a hole in my heatshrink on the pack, even though I just have been testing.
That or you need to over those screws with something soft.

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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11-17-2011 02:25 PM  6 years agoPost 79
eddiscus

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Dumont, NJ-USA

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This is just a visual mock up of the assembly picture from the manual. But it shows the battery tray moved forwart so the center bolt is now forward of the finger hole for the lower bearing adjustment. Then the tray is angled to clear the servo opening. I will try to get some actual pictures since my frame is still split, using pulse and hyperion 6S 5000mah packs.

My other thought would be to use a piece of carbon fiber angle and mount the tail servo on the side of the frame with the servo in a horizontal orientation spline facing up. Don't know if there is enough air space with the canopy on to do this, servo should only be sticking out just a little over an inch from the frame plus servo arm.

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11-17-2011 04:06 PM  6 years agoPost 80
MrMel

rrProfessor

Gotland

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Progress pictures.

My guess is that I do not have to buy anything, the damage on the frames will be minimal (2 holes) and you do 4 new holes to the battery plate.
so you could go back to "stock" anytime.

If the frame is stiff enough I could pull the bottom plate away and save some weight, will test that later...

Gone fishing..or hunting..or something
My site: http://heli.dacsa.net - VBar videos and more

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Miniature Aircraft Whiplash & Furion 6
› A few things I found with the Whiplash
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