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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › I have an issue with my OS 91 HZR...
10-30-2011 03:15 AM  6 years agoPost 1
Rob_ACDGSDetc

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Leavenworth, KS

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It runs great... It's pretty tuned in...running a bit rich. but this keeps happening..( I say it is, I'm still learning tuning, but it's running strong and not to to rich I'm pretty sure.

It floods. Sometimes it just shuts down after landing and vapor locks...

Sometimes it happens in mid air... not the way I want to practice autos, but so far so good.

When I start it up there's alot of fuel dripping from the back plate tube.

I changed the check valve and made triple sure it's the right direction. The "notch" goes toward the engine. I changed fuel tubing to make sure there's no issues there.

If I unplug the tubing from the top of the tank and let the pressure off the dripping stops. Which seems like it's just getting to much pressure and forcing fuel into the engine via the back plate tube.

If I remove the plug and spin the engine to remove the excess fuel it starts right up.

I get flight after flight with no issues then this happens.

What am I not checking or what am I doing wrong?

Rob

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10-30-2011 06:29 AM  6 years agoPost 2
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Doesn't this motor have a demand regulator similar to that of a Cline or YS? If you're flooding, I'd take a look at the regulator and see why it's allowing fuel to get to the motor when there is no demand for it by the motor.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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10-30-2011 11:57 AM  6 years agoPost 3
Dblex

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Texas

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Post a pic of your fuel tubing set up please

Highly Medicated for your protection......

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10-30-2011 12:06 PM  6 years agoPost 4
rilopez825

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Pembroke Pines, FL

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Doesn't sound like a fuel tubing issue. But check its maintaining pressure in the tank anyways. I agree with Dksheme on the regulator.

The amount of pressure you describe is normal. My tank starts to get puffy at the end of a flight.

Richard

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10-30-2011 12:09 PM  6 years agoPost 5
Dblex

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Texas

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That was kinda my reason....

you have to relieve that pressure after every flight.......

Highly Medicated for your protection......

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10-30-2011 01:01 PM  6 years agoPost 6
Jeff polisena

rrElite Veteran

westpalmbeachflorida usa

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lean out low and richen mid and high then re tune , sometimes if you low is open too much fuel will bypass.

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-30-2011 01:08 PM  6 years agoPost 7
helixangle

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Mamaroneck, NY - USA

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When I start it up there's alot of fuel dripping from the back plate tube
is your back plate loose?

do you have a fuel clamp to the regulator? If no get one.

I have both the HZ-R and 3DS, when I land the first thing I do is clamp off the fuel, pull the fuel line to the tank to depressurize, I mean the FIRST thing, otherwise I find fuel will continue to pour into the motor, and flood the engine.

reset the carb, 1 turn open from closed on the mid, 2.25 open from closed on the high.

have you ever adjusted the mixture control valve? (what people call the low)

Be sure the juice is worth the sqweeze
Remember life is hard...even harder for stupid people

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10-30-2011 08:02 PM  6 years agoPost 8
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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A lot of people have this issue , the low is set from factory but sometimes you need to lean it . If motor has some time on it I would put high and mid at two turns out and go clockwise on low a little then re tune high then mid to get transition smooth .

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-30-2011 08:33 PM  6 years agoPost 9
c3pio

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Rockville MD US - Athens GR

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I had the same short of issue with a 55 HZ R. It was flooding from the carb. It even had very weird settings for the needles. It was like that since day one, right out of the box, so initially I thought maybe OS had done magic but at some time the carb was way off from the manual settings, plus it started flooding too much. I mean as I freed the carb fuel line after fill up the fuel was pouring off the carb. I checked and rechecked plumbing and everything was ok. But the carb was flooding. At some point I realized that I had a regulator issue. I was ready to get a replacement when the night before I thought that ok OS says not to touch the regulator since it's "not user servicable" but if I get it open what do I have to loose? Nothing. I had already decided to replace it. So I opened it and took out the silicon sheet. I saw that the sheet applies pressure to a spring regulating the inflow of fuel through a pin with the help of the spring and a hinge passing through another pin secured with the help of a setscrew. Take a look here http://www.rcheliresource.com/wp-co...z-r-english.jpg (I found the jpg after I opened up mine). I took the whole thing apart, blew air through it to get it cleaned from any miniscule debris - dirt, reassembled it, reattached it to the carb and tested it. Works like a charm, no flooding no nothing and the needle settings are per manual. If you decide to open it look carefully you'll see that the 5 screws keeping the reg closed are torx. However, you can use a 1.5mm hex driver. Hope it helps. My $.002

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10-31-2011 01:39 AM  6 years agoPost 10
hobby_man

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MPLS, MN

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HZR
they do not run very well in a MN winter!!

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10-31-2011 02:50 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Rob_ACDGSDetc

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Leavenworth, KS

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That's alot of great information, thanks everyone.... I'll post back as soon as I can get back at it and see what's what... I heard about the low needle adjustment...

The back plate is tight and the seal is good, the back plate tube is exactly 10 mm. As soon as I land pinch the fuel line and pull the tube off the tank...plenty of pressure BTW.

Rob

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10-31-2011 03:24 PM  6 years agoPost 12
rcnut

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Rockford, Illinois

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Rob_ACDGSDetc...you need to lean the low needle. That will the one with the screw driver slot. The low end is too rich. This will cause a great low idle, but extra fuel will drip out from the muffler. Your idle will become somewhat erratic needing to up your idle trim. And the most common problem, engine just quitting.

So turn the needle valve counter clockwise between an 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn at a time. Your idle will increase slightly and the motor will run smoother.

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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10-31-2011 03:25 PM  6 years agoPost 13
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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Looking at pic your low end is too rich . Give a try and see if leaning will help.

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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10-31-2011 07:19 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Rob_ACDGSDetc

rrNovice

Leavenworth, KS

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Roger... it'll be tomorrow before I get to fiddle with it again...

Rob

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11-01-2011 02:36 AM  6 years agoPost 15
helixangle

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Mamaroneck, NY - USA

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+ 1 on rich mixture control valve

If you look at your carb in the orientation of the photo, RE low needle adjustments, moving right to left you have

Adjustment screw, (working back) brass colored valve, (working back) Black colored retainer nut.

If you were to draw an imaginary line through the center of all three pieces, the slot on the screw should be in the same direction as the imaginary line. This is factory "neutral". About 2:00 or 2:15 (clock orientation) the way your bird is sitting in the picture.

The screw only turns a total of 180 degrees, 90 up or CCW, and 90 down or CW.

Turn the screw down (Clock Wise) to about 2:30 3:00, that should be where you wind up.

here's the link explaining:

BASIC POSITION OF MIXTURE CONTROL SCREW (read)

OS engine page 24

PS in the manual they show these components as vertical

Be sure the juice is worth the sqweeze
Remember life is hard...even harder for stupid people

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12-29-2011 03:16 PM  6 years agoPost 16
Rob_ACDGSDetc

rrNovice

Leavenworth, KS

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Finally got around to some flight time.... Thanks everyone for the help... I leaned out the idle a bit and it now everything is fine... I'm still fairly new at this so i didn't think of that...but I learn...

Thanks again Everyone!!

Rob

Rob

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12-29-2011 03:48 PM  6 years agoPost 17
unclejane

rrElite Veteran

santa fe, NM, USA

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c3pio is right - this has nothing to do with needle settings, etc. The regulator valve isn't seating correctly. This is due to either debris caught in the needle/seat or the needle/seat is damaged and needs repair/replacement.

Under no circumstances should fuel flow through the regulator into the carb when the engine is off. The tank should hold its pressure and nothing should be running over ever. You should NOT have to pinch off the line after shutting down - the fuel flow should be _completely_ shut off.

PS: having to make large changes from factory setting on the idle mix is a symptom of this too. You pretty much shouldn't have to touch the idle from factory setting at all. I fly at 7000' and the idle on my HZ-R's is spot on at the factory setting.

Why do I know all this? I had the same problem with two HZ-R carbys. I cleaned the needle/seat on my first HZ-R carb, but it still ran over intermittently. So it went back to hobby services. My other HZ-R had no diaphragm in it at all new out of the box. Er, definitely somebody dropped the ball when assembling that carb lol... It went back to HS also for a new diaphragm.

You can try to clean it by VERY carefully depressing the needle to open it and then VERY carefully blowing/sucking through it with a piece of fuel line on the inlet. Also run some fuel through it while holding it open.

If that doesn't fix it, tho, it needs to go back to HS for repair...

Once fixed, tho, you MUST use a fuel filter inline. Then it'll work great pretty much forever...

LS

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