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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › What caused that?
06-05-2011 10:32 PM  8 years ago
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Volidas

rrNovice

Thessaloniki-Greece

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What caused that?
About two months ago I had a quite bad crash that cost me about $400 in parts. The heli was a T-Rex 600ESP with a CC ICE 120HV esc, a scorpion motor HK-4025 550 (6mm shaft), a beastx as it is fbl and Align 620 for cyclic/650 for rudder.
Fortunately, none of the electronics was damaged (only one of the two Turnigy nano-tech 6s 3300mah batteries was dead after crash).
All the parts I used to repair the heli was from Align except the main frame. As both sides were completely destroyed (the one side was cracked at 6 points and the other at 9 points), I used the OEM parts from Helicraft ([url=http://www.helikraft.com/ALIGN+RC/600%25252F600N+Upgrade/RCT/RCT0332/600ESP+CF+Main+Frame+H60179%2CH60180+OEM+%28RCT0332%29.html]) that made perfect fit (as expected because it is supposed that they are made from Align, but are sold without the brand name at lower cost).
After I finished, I noticed that there was a very intense noise coming from the tight gear mess between the autorotation tail drive gear and the torque tube front drive gear.
Also, the motor was getting very hot, even without load.
After I contacted Scorpion Motors, I sent it to them and a few days later I received a mail from Scorpion saying that the shaft was bent and the end bell should also be changed with a small cost.
Anyway, I mounted on the heli another motor I had, a Xera-4030 560 2.5Y and went out for a testing flight.
I spooled the rotor for a while to see if the noise would have any bad result and after I saw that nothing happened, I tried to hover for a minute. Then, as the only problem was the noise, I gave a quick push at the throttle stick (almost full throttle).
At that point I heard an intense metallic sound and the heli lost power. After my first forced auto, the heli resulted on the ground with destroyed landing skids.When I reached it, I found out that the motor had come off the motor mount, the threads of the mounting holes were damaged as was the motor mount.
Now need help at the following questions :
1. How can I fix the wrong gear mesh, as there is no way to adjust neither the autorotation tail drive gear and the torque tube front drive gear?
2. Why did the motor came off its mount? I am sure that I fastened the screws carefully, applying thread lock (something that did not happen when I tried to mount the motor on a new mount the other day and over fastened the screws, resulting in damaging the threads of the other pair of mounting holes).
The pictures attached show the motor I used, the pinion that caused the damage at the motor mount (I was impressed from the quality of the steel), the damaged motor mount and the log that shows what happened during flight(just before the metallic noise the log shows that the motor pulled 4800 watt).
Any help is welcome.

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06-05-2011 11:59 PM  8 years ago
mr dan

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Stockton Calif

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did you mod the motor mount to fit the motor or did the other motor eat that up? couold it have been caused by the mount slots being to thin and letting go under stress?"R.I.P Roman" Citizen 0094 in the Nation
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06-06-2011 12:36 PM  8 years ago
Volidas

rrNovice

Thessaloniki-Greece

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No, I did not modify the motor. The motor itself ate that up(that is why I am impressed with the pinion).
There is indeed a point at what you say about the slots, but I suppose that the company had in mind the power of the motor when took the decision to put 3mm screws.
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06-06-2011 08:21 PM  8 years ago
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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The mount nor the motor frame are not steel. and two small 3mm screws are not enough to hold the torque from that motor especially on a modded align motor mount that has slotted holes. I would suggest getting a specially drilled motor mount for the motor you are using like one from KDE. its way too easy to strip out those small screws especially in aluminum. also dubble check that you used the right size screws for the threaded holes as some SAE sizes fit loosely into metric holes. as for the mesh on the tail drive gear, it could be the frame itself. alot of "clone" parts will not be exactly the right dimentions for your model all the time. Check the mounting holes for the six tail mount screws on the new frams against the original Align frames.showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...
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06-06-2011 08:55 PM  8 years ago
Volidas

rrNovice

Thessaloniki-Greece

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Thanks RM3.
I have just placed an order of the KDE motor mount. However, I would like to be sure that the torque caused all that mess and not something else, so as to prevent it from happening again in the future.
As for the frame, I will try to disassemble the heli tomorrow (has a lot of work) and compare the two sets.
But even in case that are not completely similar I don't think I can do something, as opening new holes or re bore them that will decrease the whole structural strength of the frame.
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06-07-2011 06:18 AM  8 years ago
RM3

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Killeen, Texas - USA

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your welcome!
the torque was probably alone not the only reason it came off. high vibration from the overly tight gear mesh, the heat generated by the motor loosening the locktite and loose fitting screws in the slotted holes all pile up and can cause problems. if you do have to slot the frame holes just a bit you can use a strong epoxi to fill the open slot in the frame. then just re-drill the mounting holes where they need to be as gaged from the original frames. if you want to see how to fill the open slot gap in the carbon fiber frames I can make some pics for you outlining the steps to do this.
BTW KDE makes some really good stuff, it can be pricey but well worth it in the long run since its talor made for your application. make sure to set the right mesh and use good locktite onto both the mount to motor screws and the mount to frame screws. let us know how it all turns out. good luck and above all have fun with it.
showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...
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06-07-2011 01:50 PM  8 years ago
Volidas

rrNovice

Thessaloniki-Greece

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That with the epoxy is a great idea.
It will take some time to do all that but it is much better than flying with the fear of a new crash. And I believe that the tight mesh caused the crash too.
I will let you know if I need help with the epoxy but if you already have any pictures, they are welcome.
Spiros
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07-22-2011 08:36 PM  8 years ago
Volidas

rrNovice

Thessaloniki-Greece

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Finally I disassembled the whole heli (for once more, and compared the OEM frame I used with the original frame that Align uses for the ESP.
The holes matched perfectly, however the OEM ones were very tight comparing with the original.
So, with the help of the dremel, I widened a little all the holes where the main shaft bearing blocks mount on the frame and that gave me the space to make all the tiny corrections needed for a fine gear mesh.
I also purchased the KDE motor mount and repaired the threads of the motor with the help of high strength epoxy and V-coil thread repair kit (in about five minutes I will write a post about that at the thread I opened about the Xera's service).
Thank you all for your ideas.
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