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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerial Photography and Video › My first photos
05-15-2011 11:08 PM  7 years agoPost 1
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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I have been following the thread for a couple of months as I get into aerial photography. It has been very helpful. I have exchanged several emails and pm's with members as well as purchased a used 3 axis gimbal from one. Here are my first photos (Downtown Austin,TX)taken this morning.

http://vimeo.com/23763368

I will post some video soon. I was using auto focus on the above photos and have since found out by setting up manually I can get a bit sharper image.

I am running a RC Aerodyne 600E airframe and a Panasonic GH2 with a 14mm Lumix lens. The light weight GH2 made me feel comfortable with the smaller 600E airframe. The reduced cost and readily available parts was also a plus. I am running a 5.8Ghz downlink with a 12db antenna on the receiver. Running the Gentwire for trigger on stills and using a secondary framing camera for video.

Don't bother going to my website since it has not been setup. Just purchased the domain. CameraWings.com

Robert Youens
CameraWings.com

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05-15-2011 11:40 PM  7 years agoPost 2
Smithprod

rrVeteran

Oklahoma

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Nice! Next time you're shooting water features you might try a polarizer filter. It'll really knock the glare/reflections down.

Brad

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05-15-2011 11:44 PM  7 years agoPost 3
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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Thanks for the comment. I was using a polarized filter but neglected to rotate it to optimize glare reduction. Live and learn.

Robert

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05-23-2011 10:12 PM  7 years agoPost 4
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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More Stuff
I am continuing to shoot a lot of video and stills. Not doing post production work to stabilize since I am most interested in learning how to reduce the flaws in my raw footage before starting to edit it out. Made a decision to incorporate a local video editor/director into my business (that is the part of this project that was kicking my butt). He will also act as cameraman on videos and some stills.

Rod has really helped me cleanup my raw footage and stills.

Here are my two most recent projects "Family boating" and "Zilker Park West":

http://vimeo.com/24101646

http://vimeo.com/24115120

I will continue this thread as my ability improves, still got a way to go. Ordered new lens that I look forward to trying out and I am working on a devise to help provide the "Holy Grail", greatly reduced or no post production video for live Television News feed . I am on my third revision of a prototype steady cam for rc helicopter (getting close to doing some video with the helicopter).

Robert

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05-24-2011 12:27 AM  7 years agoPost 5
USAF Retired

rrVeteran

North, TX

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Good Stuff...Thanks!

Terry

In God We Trust

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05-24-2011 10:24 PM  7 years agoPost 6
llbr22

rrApprentice

Oakland, CA

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Cool stuff! Hey, so I'm using a GH2, how did you use the Gentwire for remote trigger of stills? Or I guess I should ask which model is compatible with the Panasonic?

Thanks!

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05-24-2011 10:26 PM  7 years agoPost 7
psych-lick

rrKey Veteran

Portland, OR

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Welcome to RR Robert!

-Jeff T.

-Jeff T.

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05-25-2011 02:53 PM  7 years agoPost 8
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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llbr22,

Here is the unit I am using.

Panasonic DMC-GH1, DMC-GH2 gentWIRE-FOCUS

They have a quick start manual and full manual on the site that can give you more of an explanation of it's use.

I have shutter on the gear switch of my camera mount transmitter which is operated by camera operator. Camera operator just switches back and forth for picture taking. When doing high wind/turbulence still shoots, we ramp up the shutter speed and do multi-shutter bursts to catch the horizon level.

When shooting by myself I just put an extension on the gentwire and run it back to the gear position on the flight transmitter.

Hope that helps. PS - I love my GH2. In the hands of Rod (videographer) I hope to soon share some really nice video projects. We are working with a local producer on a documentary and have a 3 day shoot of a major sporting event coming up in a couple of weeks.

Thanks,

Robert

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05-25-2011 03:59 PM  7 years agoPost 9
llbr22

rrApprentice

Oakland, CA

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Thanks Robert! I had planned to use a remote control that I bought for time lapse type continuous shutter, but it would have been more weight. This is a much better solution and I'm ordering that gent wire today :-) even the stock 14-42 lens for the Gh2 is super light, and has been giving me great video results.

With a 14ch rx, I have plenty of control of my heli, camera shutter and tilt control.

I just need to settle on a mount. For my 700, I still can't choose between forward or underslung. I don't really want to do video in the air until I get a mount that does roll compensation well though, so starting with stills using the same controller you use is perfect!

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05-25-2011 07:19 PM  7 years agoPost 10
CameraWings

rrApprentice

Austin, TX

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I went with the 14mm pancake not for the weight but for the gain of about 1.5 F stops. This should add valuable shooting time during those optimal light moments in the morning and evening. This lens came highly recommended by other AP guys.

Just reflecting on my trials and tribulations:

I have tried heading hold and rate gyros, in both direct drive and belt drive setups to improve stabilization of my camera head. I have tried digital and analog servos.

Analog servos have provided best results for me on the camera head. I believe it is due to their smoothness in transition. This afternoon I plan on installing an optical horizon hold to drive the servos. I will let you know how that works out. I have issues with gyros returning to optimal position and the issues increase with flight time.

I have a buddy that has an AceOne set-up and it seems to work well in the roll axis as long as the camera faces forward. During pan, it has issues with roll.

Since all high end AP guys seem to use post stabilization for video imaging, it would seem to be most important if doing post stabilization to assure that your roll stabilization is not jerky. If roll is smooth (even if it is not as quick and accurate)it would be more likely to provide fewer blurred video frames (during jerky movement). Clear frames seem to make post stabilization quicker and higher quality.

So I guess the question is are you stabilizing for best raw footage or for best post stabilization?

Robert

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