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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 90 › starter shaft strips 60
05-13-2011 05:55 AM  7 years agoPost 1
pwert

rrNovice

edmond, ok

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hey all... new to fuel helis, have been working my way up on mini electrics.. walkera cb100 then v120do5.. that one is still tough... anyway bought an old raptor 60 and nearly have it flying.... able to start it and spin it up an have all controls working.. but i broke the starer shaft where the set screws tighten into it.. got another one and started it again .. but then stripped the flat spots off the shaft...i am using a drill rather than starter... is this common or is it a result of the drill...did i just miss the flat spot when puttin the attachent on top of the new shaft?? I m going to buy a real started tommorrow and have another shaft on the way... engine runs great when i get it going..

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05-13-2011 06:32 AM  7 years agoPost 2
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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Did you strip the starter coupler against the starter shaft (part that goes into the clutch) or did you strip the starter wand tip (part that goes into the drill).

If you stripped the starter wand then you'll need to replace both the starter wand and the starter cup at the same time.

If you stripped the grub screw that hold sthe coupler onto the starter shaft likely just need to replace the grub screws and make sure they hit the flat spots on the starter shaft.

Make sure the starter wand is fully inside the starter coupler before hitting the starter!

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05-13-2011 12:43 PM  7 years agoPost 3
RaptorRob

rrApprentice

hamlin P.A.

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i used to use a drill when i first started into fuel helis

it works but it can do damage make sure you set the slip clutch on the drill it dosnt take much torque to start a motor but if the motor locks up from fuel you can break the motor if you wrench down on it

as far as the starter shaft replace it and try again when you stripped the shaft off (the flat spots) most likely you didnt quite get the grub screws in right .. try and put one screw in and line it up then put loctight on the second screw and torque it down then take out the first put loctite on and torque it down ..

now if the motor locked up with fuel and you kept trying to start it and stripped the shaft you can damage the motor that much torque will break things

hope this helps

rob

no babe i swear i sold my other heli to buy this one :)

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05-13-2011 02:12 PM  7 years agoPost 4
pwert

rrNovice

edmond, ok

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starting shaft
it is only stripped where the grub screws hit the flat spot on shaft at starter wand tip end... stripped flat spot off shaft as screws turned around it. hopefully did not damage engine if it was "locked up with fuel" not sure what this means..I did try to keep starting it for a while... however i just put the wand tip back on an engine still has compression.. hopefully im ok... I will take shaft back off and make a new flat spot today and buy a real starter... Tips on safe starting for engine would be appreciated as im now worried i damaged it, as i could not get it going, but hopefully it was just shaft being stripped and not giving enough compression ... Thanks all
Ill let you know how it goes.

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05-13-2011 04:25 PM  7 years agoPost 5
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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Fuel lock = too much liquid fuel in the combustion chamber. It can't be compressed so it locks the engine. The way you fix this is pull the glow plug and run the starter for a few seconds. Careful because if there is fuel in the engine it'll spray all over whatever is in front of the glow plug hole! If it's a minor fuel lock you can clear it by tipping the heli on it's side, muffler straight down and turing over the engine by hand (twising the starter wand by hand).

#1 most important item when starting a heli is make sure the throttle is at idle. A hot start sucks. This is where you start the engine up at open throttle. you'll burn the clutch and clutch liner up in just a few seconds. Check all radio switches before starting - check them twice. Make sure you have the correct model selected on the TX.

Keep the fuel line clamped until you are ready to start the heli. That way fuel doesn't drain into the engine when sitting around.

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05-14-2011 06:38 AM  7 years agoPost 6
pwert

rrNovice

edmond, ok

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i pulled the start shaft and found that the clutch was broken... maybe why i could not start and tried until stripping starter shaft.. engine still seems to have good compression... parts will not be here until wednesday... local shop did not have them...ill fly the mini electrics and Stimulator.... oh simulator until then...

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05-14-2011 06:47 AM  7 years agoPost 7
pwert

rrNovice

edmond, ok

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clutch
after reading everyone again.. i did have a hot start... when i got this thing all servos where disconnected from rx..I put back together as i thought was correct... started it and throttle was reversed... i reversed it in the tx afterwards. but this was the first start of the 4 i have had... it was hairy as i was alone and first nitro heli start ever. was able to kill it quickly.. but maybe that is when i f u p clutch... ?????

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05-14-2011 07:09 AM  7 years agoPost 8
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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quite possible - a hot start will tear the lining off the clutch bell. This allows the clutch shoes to expand out too far which fatiques them at their flex point = broken clutch.

When you install the new clutch measure it and make sure you have abot 008" (.2mm) gap between the clutch diameter and the clutch bell lining diameter. Here's a writeup of how I check this --

https://rc.runryder.com/t589993p1

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05-14-2011 07:58 AM  7 years agoPost 9
pwert

rrNovice

edmond, ok

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clutch
right... will do.. the clutch liner looked pretty good but i will measure...i have a new liner that i could put in if u think i should... but old one seems pretty thick??? Funny bc i almost threw liner away when i got the whole package as i thought it was just a peice of linoleum flooring t hat got trapped in my package... lo0l

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05-14-2011 07:59 AM  7 years agoPost 10
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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measure it - only way to know if the gap is right.

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