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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › RL 53 problem
05-11-2011 02:55 AM  7 years agoPost 1
baby uh1

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St. James, Mo.

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Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what parts have to be replaced on a RL 53 to make it work right?
I am working on one for a friend and no matter what I try it won't start. I have tried adjusting all of the needles and have checked for blockages etc and just can't make it work.
It is one of the older ones and the carb seems sticky. Do I need to replace the carb or the whole thing with an OS 50?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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05-11-2011 03:21 AM  7 years agoPost 2
Michael503

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama USA

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the "updated" part is the carb barrel. The anodized coating wears off rather quickly in the spiral guide groove causing it to stick as the guide pin digs into the soft aluminum. The new part is not much better.

If the carb is older, the orings, specifically the one under the low speed adjustment screw , may be flat, allowing the carb to suck air.

I went round and round with mine, replaced every part in the carb except the carb body. It had to be so rich at idle to keep it from going lean at midrange, I couldn't get it to the flightline without it going dead. I finally put an OS 50 carb on it and its muuuuch better. Not perfect, like you can get a 3 needle carb, but way better than stock.

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05-11-2011 12:38 PM  7 years agoPost 3
baby uh1

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St. James, Mo.

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Great, Thanks, I guess the best setup would be one of the three needle carbs off of an OS 61 but I don't want to put that much work into this thing. Especially since you can get a used OS 50 for $100 or less now.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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05-11-2011 01:01 PM  7 years agoPost 4
Michael503

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama USA

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If you have access to a lathe, and can get a Hyper 50 cheap, do the OS mod, Its well worth it. There is a bit of a rich stumble just off idle, but it will idle all day with a full tank.

There is a power boost as well.

It put a smile on my face when I got it running!

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05-11-2011 02:21 PM  7 years agoPost 5
MartyH

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USA

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Michael, what mod are you referring to?

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05-11-2011 02:33 PM  7 years agoPost 6
Michael503

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama USA

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https://rc.runryder.com/t536388p1/?top=1305120751

basically, you adapt a OS50/55 carb to a TT 53.

Carbs are hard to find and very pricy new. A lot of peeps had blown OS Hyper 50s and cut up the carb to get it to adapt.

You just about have to have a lathe to do it right, but it can be done with a good file and a steady hand.

In my case, I shortened both the intake and exhaust side of the carb, made a metal plate, 1/8" thick (CF has been used too)and longer bolts


(motor is down awaiting a rear main brg)

I used ultra grade silicone for a base gasket

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05-11-2011 07:16 PM  7 years agoPost 7
baby uh1

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St. James, Mo.

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Yeah,
I've seen this before. I wouldn't do it myself unless an OS carb just fell into my lap somehow. Besides, like I said this isn't my heli that I'm working on.
I just need a fix to get by on if that exists!

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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05-11-2011 07:43 PM  7 years agoPost 8
Michael503

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama USA

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in that case, replace all of the orings in the carb and if the barrel is sticking, inspect the spiral groove for wear on one of the walls of the groove. If you see any silver, replace it and polish the guide pin where it contacts the drum.

Do not overtighten the carb since it can deform the body and cause the barrel to bind elswhere.

When reassembling the carb, there should be a 1mm gap between the needle jet and jet needle at WOT, when viewed down the throat of the carb.

To get this, you adjust the needle jet (this is the external low speed screw) til its head is flush with the carb body, then adjust the jet needle (the hidden one behind the bellcrank) to get a 1mm gap between the two at WOT. Carefully use teflon plumbers tape to ensure the security of the jet needle, some have had it move on them. The idea is to add some friction the the threads. you can use blue locktite on the needle instead, but you need to let it dry first, overnight, before installing the needle.

I no longer have the links to where I read this info, but its here on RR somewhere. You might want to do a search.. I'm pretty sure it was 1mm

I tried all of this and it still was pig rich and floodable @idle with a full tank, but thats all there is as far as I know.

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05-12-2011 01:56 PM  7 years agoPost 9
Michael503

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Tuscaloosa, Alabama USA

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I also forgot to add, inspect the tip of the main needle valve, the needles in this carb are quite soft and can easily be deformed by a heavy fingered tuner. It there is a significant ridge in the main needle, it can make it difficult to find proper mixture @WOT. Not impossible, just more sensitive.

A carbsmart will wear this part out due to constant movement and the needles lack of support without the detente installed, but since it adjusts all the time, you may not notice. Initial tuning because of this can be tricky if the CS has been on there awhile.

BTW, I had better luck without rather than with the CS.
Hope this helps

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05-13-2011 02:02 AM  7 years agoPost 10
baby uh1

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St. James, Mo.

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Thanks so much for this info! That is exactly what I needed.

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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