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HomeAircraftHelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › Quick question about FBL mainshaft for 700 Nitro
05-11-2011 02:00 AM  7 years agoPost 21
sluggo

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Kitchener Ont

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Teambob00

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05-11-2011 02:28 AM  7 years agoPost 22
Dino Spadaccini

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USA

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yes you are right and i love the setup so dont get us pinked

RIP Roman JR
Capt USA Align Factory Team Align - Conquer Your heart
Team Futaba

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05-11-2011 04:10 PM  7 years agoPost 23
Paul Woodcock

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Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi guys

I have some pictures in my gallery. Go have a look.

With the electric A-Arm, the swash sits way too low and you cant get enough - pitch.

Regards
Paul

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05-11-2011 04:21 PM  7 years agoPost 24
sluggo

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Kitchener Ont

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yup the geometry on the 700e is a little different then the 700n that is why it has a shorter A arm and flat bearing blocks

Teambob00

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05-11-2011 09:56 PM  7 years agoPost 25
liftit

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Ofallon MO

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So a short shaft and shorter links from swash to links is all you need for the 700 nitro. was gettin a bit confuzzed.........

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05-11-2011 09:59 PM  7 years agoPost 26
liftit

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Ofallon MO

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I meant from swash to grips , See CONFUZZED.......

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05-11-2011 10:52 PM  7 years agoPost 27
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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Yup, what he said. ^^^^

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05-11-2011 10:58 PM  7 years agoPost 28
sluggo

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Kitchener Ont

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Yup h70035 shafts
and h70066 links

The bell cranks will help also but not needed.

Teambob00

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05-12-2011 12:21 AM  7 years agoPost 29
TT2

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Nakhonsawan Thailand

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Buy this: H70066 600/700FL Linkage rod(A) set for use with the short 700FL Main Shaft (205.5mm x 12mm).

Do this: swap the 'long' balls on the inner swashplate with some 'short' balls. This will mechanically reduce the throw to the grips (better servo resolution). I was able to dang-near get the blue light at 6 degrees with a Microbeast...which is good enough for me. I'm happy with it.

The 700E elevator bellcrank and aileron levers are a better solution but come at a pretty steep price.

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05-12-2011 01:38 AM  7 years agoPost 30
HeliWholesaler

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Billings, MT

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FYI, sorry if there is confusion on the great A-Arm debate.

There is a difference with the 700E and 700N A-Arms. The difference in the two is that that 700E A-Arm offers 2 different hole settings both an inner and outer just as the bell cranks do.

When running a FBL head on the 700 you SHOULD run the 700E A-Arm on the inner most setting so that it matches the geometry of your bell cranks that will also presumably be on the inner holes already.

If you are running the A-Arm on the outer hole and the bell cranks on the inner holes your geometry will NOT be correct.

If you choose to run all on the outer holes you will not be getting the best resolution you could be.

To go one farther, I am also running short balls on the swash for the 2 linkages that go to the main blade grips. This will increase resolution even further.

Hope this helps clarify.

www.HeliWholesaler.com

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05-12-2011 02:34 AM  7 years agoPost 31
sluggo

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Kitchener Ont

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This is what we have been saying for the last 2 pages

Teambob00

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05-12-2011 03:06 AM  7 years agoPost 32
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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Heliwholesaler

I think the confusion is we were talking about the A arm as only one part of the ELE lever and not the whole thing. So sorry about the confusion, and I am glad we are all on the same page now.

Your last statement is correct.
To go one farther, I am also running short balls on the swash for the 2 linkages that go to the main blade grips. This will increase resolution even further.
I would start with the short Swash balls before the levers, as it is cheaper and comes in the 3G kit as standard parts when converting to an FBL system. Just my thought.

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05-12-2011 03:12 AM  7 years agoPost 33
sluggo

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Kitchener Ont

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That is a good point as the standard FB le kits comes with long balls on the inner ring of the swash. Now would changing the long balls on the outter ring of the swash do anything??

Teambob00

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05-12-2011 03:24 AM  7 years agoPost 34
Kevin Dalrymple

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Indianapolis

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Yup, but i have enough resolution. I believe there is a balance that should had. it will depend on your flying style and what you would like the heli to feel like. My 700N is at 45 on the AFRs with the inner holes on the levers and i was at 35 on the outer holes. Oh yea my cyclic is 10 degrees.

Try it and fly it and go with what ya like. Don't forget you will need to set up the AFRs when going from the inner to the out or vise versa, or it will not be a good comparison.

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05-12-2011 07:21 PM  7 years agoPost 35
Rockohaulic

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Canyon Country, CA, USA, 3rd Rock from the Sun

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the great A-Arm debate.

Saturday morning I flew my helicopter in my pajamas
How it got in my pajamas I'll never know

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05-19-2011 02:00 PM  7 years agoPost 36
jadams

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East coast USA

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I ended up using the stock elevator and aileron bell cranks and the short main shaft. I also am upgrading the linkage rods to the Miniature Aircraft 2.6mm diameter on the servo's and to the swash. I personally never liked the 1.96mm rods on the 700.

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05-19-2011 02:38 PM  7 years agoPost 37
Paul Woodcock

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Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi jadams

The rods between the servo and bell crank are a double pull/pull setup and could be even thinner..... they only pull.

the rods from the bell crank to swash could theoretically benefit from being thicker, but they are quite short and don't really flex or bend.

Regards
Paul

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05-19-2011 03:43 PM  7 years agoPost 38
rcnut

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Rockford, Illinois

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Ok, now that I'm done with my bag of popcorn, LOL

I converted my Trex 700N to FBL last year. I bought an RJX head and the Total-G. To me it fly's great, better than the flybar version. No shorter balls on the swash (didn't know about this), no different bell cranks or "A" arm.

However, I have noticed that the links from the RJX kit seems a bit short. After several flights, the links feel a bit loose on the rods (easier to thread in).

So I am interested in the shorter mainshaft. With my setup would I just need the mainshaft? Or will I need to add the shorter balls, bell cranks, and "A" arm?

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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05-19-2011 05:17 PM  7 years agoPost 39
jadams

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East coast USA

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Even though the rods are a double push pull, I changed them out for $9. Money well spent. IMO.

MA121-5, MA121-6, MA120-25

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05-20-2011 01:53 AM  7 years agoPost 40
PC12DRVR

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USA

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The bellcranks on the 700N are the same measurement as using the 700E bellcranks on the outer hole. I fly both an E and N on with beast X and it makes no difference. To get proper resolution you do have to move inward on the servo horn towards the spline output. Digital calipers dont lie.

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HomeAircraftHelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › Quick question about FBL mainshaft for 700 Nitro
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