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Other › Logo 600se unlimited 3D upgrade
05-09-2011 07:32 PM  7 years agoPost 1
mmc205

rrElite Veteran

PA - USA

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I have a logo 600se, 693 mains, 105 tails, all stock, ice80hv, 5020-450, 12S 4000.

I run at 1800 rpm doing smooth 3D, some harder tic-tocs, and big air. I'd like to upgrade it to do more unlimited 3D like my 600. not "crack" 3D mind you, but harder maneuvers.

So far, i'm thinking the motor will probably be good, i'm getting some gensace lipos (only 25C but all testing is showing them being similar to 35-40C hyperions), esc will probably be okay. but my main worry areas are the head (specifically damping) and tail. I'm already on the waiting list for a quick uk tail. I'm planning on upgrading the tail, maybe the head, and running at 1900-2000 on the head.

For anyone out there that has had experience with the 600se doing harder 3D at 1800+ headspeeds, do you have any advice to offer? I'm looking mostly for effectual upgrades, nothing cosmetic.

Any items that seem to wear faster when running higher headspeeds? (my guess is dampers with the stock head)

Thanks guys,
-Matt

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-09-2011 11:35 PM  7 years agoPost 2
heliaddict2424

rrApprentice

SCV SoCal.

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I'm already on the waiting list for a quick uk tail.
I have a quick UK tail on my 600se and I have the stock tail on my 600. IMO the quick uk tail is not needed I have never had any problems with the stock tail. Kyle puts his 600 through hell on 110 tail blades and has never had any issues that I know of. I put the quick UK tail on my 600se because I thought with 105 blades I would need it than I found out that the pro pilots were running extended tail blades on the stock Mikado tail. I really don't believe that you need any upgrades the Logo out of the box is pretty solid..

Team MikadoUSA Team Scorpion

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05-11-2011 06:25 PM  7 years agoPost 3
tw-heli

rrNovice

northeast

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Really good question and I am also very interested. I just picked up an SE and was wondering the same thing.

I know some people pick-up the RJX-90 head and drill out the main shaft to get the head to sit at the right height. I don't know if that change is for looks or to run higher head speed. I also read some where that the blade holder bolts will bend at higher speed. I think they are 4mm. Not sure if the RJX head uses larger bolts.

It would be nice to have the option with the SE to go with a higher headspeed. Especially, since the Extreme really looks like an 800 machine.

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05-11-2011 06:46 PM  7 years agoPost 4
mmc205

rrElite Veteran

PA - USA

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Especially, since the Extreme really looks like an 800 machine.

My thoughts exactly, i was jonesing for one, but between being a really expensive 800 or a heavy and expensive 700, i figured out trick out my SE for a few hundred bucks to do reasonably hard 3D.

some say nothing is needed to run up to 2000 rpm, others day you need at least a quick uk tail, and others say the quick uk tail and a new head (not so much for strength, for a better damper system)

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-11-2011 10:53 PM  7 years agoPost 5
Sillyness

rrVeteran

Little Rock AR

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Doesn't it feel wired at the hit RPM? Are you going to weight it down with bigger packs so it doesn't blow away

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05-11-2011 11:01 PM  7 years agoPost 6
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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I had 2 600SE some time ago (my conversion) and used the RJX head, the main reason was when flying hard the mikado dampers would pop out all the time (regardless of spacers and lube or no lube etc etc) so i put the RJX heads on and re drill to get same head height.

With high RPM its not really good idea and i had a belt snap (not the mikado one) a SDP belt (not as strong) and even then the main bearings etc etc wear out faster.

Its better to accept it for what it is and keep say 1850RPM on it.

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05-12-2011 12:33 AM  7 years agoPost 7
jphilli

rrKey Veteran

Atlanta, Ga.

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Hey helicraze, funny you mention that the dampers would pop out all the time no matter what you did as I would experience the same issue even though when I posted about it my problems were "unheard of". I put some trueblood dampers in and all is well now.

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05-12-2011 12:44 AM  7 years agoPost 8
helicraze

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Victoria - Australia

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Yeh i got the same reply or put 2 spacers in, did not work, even the grips the bearings do not seat as nice and bearings get worn quicker.

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05-12-2011 01:45 AM  7 years agoPost 9
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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I'm going to agree with heliaddict2424. No upgrades needed to turn 1950-2000 HS on the 600SE. Stock tail is fine on 105's. Remember many guys are running 95's to 105's on Logo 600's with 2300 HS without problems.

The reactive centrifugal force on the blade grip is equal to the product of mass and the square of the velocity. From this it is easy to see that the HS, which dictates tail rotor rotational speed, is much more important than mass (blade size) when it come to calculating the load on the tail blade grip. Interestingly, the mass of 95mm and 105mm Radix tail blades is about the same at 6g/blade. To put it simply, the tail blade grip load from 105's on a 600SE at 2,000 HS is about 30% less than the load on the tail blade grip on a 600 with 95mm tail blades at 2300 HS.

The double spacer trick worked for me as far as the dampners popping out. They still wear out quickly though.

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05-12-2011 01:50 AM  7 years agoPost 10
mmc205

rrElite Veteran

PA - USA

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interesting facts, thanks a lot guys. I think my first move will to be to change the headspeed from 1800 rpm to 1900 and see how it feels. If the worst effect is changing dampers often at 3.00 a pop, i'm game. I want a bit more performance, without adding unnecessary upgrades to accomplish it. the belt thing scared me at first, but i have heard from reliable sources that the spt belts do have issues in this application. I'm also looking into making better damper spacers for the se, look up old posts on the subject with my username attached and you'll see what i mean.

Again, thanks for the input. Let the debate continue!

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-12-2011 02:09 AM  7 years agoPost 11
helicraze

rrElite Veteran

Victoria - Australia

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I think if you can use some large OD spacers this will remedy the issue of them popping out, even 2 spacers i did not find it helped.

The only thing on 105MM tails is its not only the RPM but also the snapping action of the tail (during stops).

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05-12-2011 05:34 AM  7 years agoPost 12
Stolla

rrKey Veteran

Port elizabeth South Africa

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Ive been flying quite a while now with stock head at 1900 but rjx tail as it has better geometry than the quick one. As for dampers dont lube them then they stay in better. My other Se has a TDR head on which is awesome if you like a very low profile look but honestly stock head and tail is good except if you want to go higher than 2000 or run 115 t/b. You'll note quite a difference between 18 and 1900 so my guess is you'll be happy

Common sense may not be common after all

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05-12-2011 01:04 PM  7 years agoPost 13
mmc205

rrElite Veteran

PA - USA

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great, i'll go all stock at first i think and run 1900 on the head. your right, when i've upped 100 rpm on my 600 in the past, its amazing the difference it makes, but i guess it makes sense because the lift produced is some exponential of the speed i think. I know its the case for drag, just not sure for lift.

Also, where did you source the rjx tail, i'v never seen it.

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-12-2011 05:47 PM  7 years agoPost 14
Stolla

rrKey Veteran

Port elizabeth South Africa

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You can get it directly from rjx they have an online shop

Common sense may not be common after all

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05-12-2011 07:36 PM  7 years agoPost 15
Kiba

rrApprentice

CA

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You can get it directly from rjx they have an online shop
I recently tried ordering direct from RJX as I had in the past and instead of selling me the parts they emailed me back directing me to Oliver's Hobbies (their US distributor.)

For US-based customers, Olivers has the same prices and cheaper/faster shipping compared to direct through RJX.

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