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› Anderson Power Poles
04-19-2011 06:06 PM  7 years agoPost 1
Tyler

rrElite Veteran

Chicagoland area

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I am considering converting over to anderson power poles on all of my electrics and lipos. I could use some advice, clarification, and confirmation...

All 15-45 amp contacts use the same red/black plastic housings? Should I simply buy all 45amp contacts or is there a need to use smaller contacts?

45 amp connectors are enough for up to 90 electrics?

I have sourced the 45 amp kits for $1.12 each and a suitable crimper for $19. Is there a better price to be found?

Any other successful Anderson Power Pole users?

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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04-19-2011 07:16 PM  7 years agoPost 2
mmc205

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PA - USA

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this topic has LOTS of information already.

search is your friend

http://www.google.com/search?source...ower+poles+heli

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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04-19-2011 08:18 PM  7 years agoPost 3
Ejeremy

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Bourbonnais,IL

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I'm sure he's done his research!! He's asking for advice, clarification, and confirmation on though's who have converted already.....

Do you like better pros and cons.....

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04-19-2011 09:07 PM  7 years agoPost 4
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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I use the Powerpoles and also the EC series. I actually like them both. The PP are quick and easy to assemble (especially with the proper crimp tool) and both are very secure.

The answer to your question Tyler is the connector you crimp onto the wire is based upon the wire size. They offer 3 sizes for the one plastic shell. The only difference is the wire gauge they accomodate.

The 15 Amp connector is for 16 and 18 gauge wire.

The 30 Amp connector is for 14 and 12 gauge wire.

The 45 Amp connector is for 10 gauge wire

The connectors are fine for 90 helis and can handle the current.

Don't scrimp on the crimper. Cheap does not mean best. Get the proper tool because the quality of the connector is solely based on the quality of assembly.

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04-20-2011 02:41 AM  7 years agoPost 5
Tyler

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Chicagoland area

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Ordered the crimper and connectors tonight.

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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05-01-2011 04:52 AM  7 years agoPost 6
Tyler

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Chicagoland area

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Anderson kit arrived. Wow!! I should have made this conversion long ago. The crimper works very well, the connections are very strong and solid. The most impressive aspect is how quick I can install a set (1:30) or less. I like how simple it is to install two batteries in series. No separate series cabling needed. The hold together will yet are very easy to separate, even with one hand.

Only one drawback I have found thus far: I should have ordered more of the 45amp connectors. I find my high C batteries all use larger gauge wires that require the larger connectors.

I did charge my 10s 5000 packs at 30 amps with no problems.

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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05-03-2011 07:47 AM  7 years agoPost 7
HeliMan Dave

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Suburban Chicago

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Tyler,

Be extra careful using those Anderson Power Poles. They are designed for 45A current or less. Their primary use is in radio/communications where the amp draw is no where near what we use in our hobby.

Charging the pack at 30A is one thing but pulling 50-100A during flight is another.

I put a 150A Eagle Tree on my L500 swinging RT560's running 6s 5000mAh packs with a Scorpion 4025-1100 on 15t. HS was 2200-2300.

IIRC, my amp draw recorded was 40-60A average with peaks of 107A during vertical punch-outs.

I have since switched from Deans Ultras to EC5's

On a 450 or 500 heli they might be ok. A friend of mine is using them on a Protos 500 with no issues so far but I don't think he's going to use them on larger helis.

Logo 700 / 600 / 500 V-Bar NEO / Blade 180CFX / mCPX BL / Nano / V-Control

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05-03-2011 07:54 AM  7 years agoPost 8
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Dave

You are not exactly correct. The 45 amp rating is based upon 600 volts, not the 44 volts that your typical 700 helicopter uses. So if you put it in terms of wattage, the PP are good for 27000 watts as opposed to say a 180 amp spike at 44 volts which is 7920 watts.

Alot of people make the mistake of not looking at ALL of the specifications but rather they look at just one part.

So there is no worry with the Anderson PPs. I would be more concerned actually about the gauge of wire being used in most instances as that is more the limiting factor than the connectors

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05-03-2011 08:10 AM  7 years agoPost 9
HeliMan Dave

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Suburban Chicago

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Oops, good catch...

Thanks

Logo 700 / 600 / 500 V-Bar NEO / Blade 180CFX / mCPX BL / Nano / V-Control

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05-03-2011 04:47 PM  7 years agoPost 10
Tyler

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Chicagoland area

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Yeah, I researched the full specs and realized there is nothing i could afford to fly that would overtax these connectors. The dont even get warm while charging 10s at 30A.

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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05-13-2011 06:16 AM  7 years agoPost 11
HeliMan Dave

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Suburban Chicago

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UPDATE
Just wanted you guys to see a response I received from West Mountain Radio. They are one of the primary dealers for Anderson Power Poles.

------------------------------------
Letter:
>
> West Mountain Radio Technical Support
>
> Hi. I'm trying to verify the avg. and peak DC
> current capability of 45A Anderson Power Poles.
>
> My application is large radio controlled
> helicopters that are using 24-60V power systems
> depending on the model.
>
> The current draw averages 40-60A with short
> duration peaks of 110-170A
>
> Thank You.
>
>

Response:

Voltage will not matter.

The contacts are UL ratted for 45A continuous. At that current the contacts
will heat up to 40C over ambient. The plastic melts at 105C.

At 120A you can probably be safe for a second. At that current the contacts
will be burning up 8 watts of energy due to contact resistance.
I don't have any specs for currents higher than that
---------------------------------------------

I will personally continue to only use 45A power poles for DC power to my chargers.

500 or larger size helis will get EC5's or better for main leads.

Logo 700 / 600 / 500 V-Bar NEO / Blade 180CFX / mCPX BL / Nano / V-Control

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05-13-2011 01:48 PM  7 years agoPost 12
mmc205

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PA - USA

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i've personally pulled 40 amps continous, peaks up to 115 amps or more on a 700 size heli with powerpoles. They don't even get warm. I have since switched to ec5's however, not so much due to amperage, but retention. powerpoles have a tendency to get weaker over many disconnects and i had one come apart during a 3d flight, crashing my logo 600

I'd now recomend plain old bullets, ec3's or ec5's.

I still use power poles for connections for chargers/etc where an unexpected disconnect would harm anything. They are quite handy, i just don't trust them in my heli anymore

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-13-2011 03:23 PM  7 years agoPost 13
Tyler

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Chicagoland area

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mmc,

"crashed logo"...

May I ask if you were using a seperate rx battery pack for radio control and large pack for motor power, or did you use a built in bec to drive the motor and rx together?

I am afraid to use a bec and rely on one connection to ensure safe operation of all functions whether the failure be due to bad solder joint, pulling apart connectors, broken wire, etc.

I am using the anderson keeper clip for my power connections on large helicopters just as a simple precaution.

With my flying style I don't expect to pull high current loads for very long at all. I run a very conservative setup compared to what my batteries, motor, esc, and helicopter mechanics can handle. However, I truly appreciate and understand that others prefer to hammer their equipment and hang on for the ride of their lives. I simply ain't good enough to do so.

As far as anderson connectors losing their contact over time I think I will be content to disassemble the connector from the housing, snip off the crimp connector, strip the wire back 3/8", and crimp on a new contact. Two minutes tops.

Time will tell.

I do appreciate hearing other people's input and experiences.

Tyler

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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05-13-2011 03:26 PM  7 years agoPost 14
mmc205

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PA - USA

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seperate bec, (ice 80 doesn't have built in) pulling power from the main power leads. redundant wires from the bec to the vbar.

***Logo 600 vbar***Henseleit TDR vbar***

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05-13-2011 03:29 PM  7 years agoPost 15
Tyler

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Chicagoland area

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Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the loss. Sometimes losing power at the wrong time and wrong altitude is enough to cause a crash, especially if really putting down some smack.

Enjoy things that money can buy IF you don't lose the things money can't buy.

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05-13-2011 07:57 PM  7 years agoPost 16
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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EC5 for sure hold! I had a 6S-5000mah slip out of the back on a 90 heli once, and it hung there till landing, the ec5 held the weight and didnt even budge a mm. Yet they're not difficult to put together etc...

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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05-14-2011 07:06 PM  7 years agoPost 17
petmotel

rrKey Veteran

DeKalb, IL.

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EC5 for sure hold! I had a 6S-5000mah slip out of the back on a 90 heli once, and it hung there till landing, the ec5 held the weight and didnt even budge a mm.
Now that's what I call a testimonial!

Jay

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04-14-2014 03:59 AM  4 years agoPost 18
copenhagen

rrNovice

Pickens, SC - USA

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I was actually considering trying these power poles, because I have overheated solder twice on my 6S E5 and crashed both times. No, not cold solder joints. Once at 50ish flights, and the second time at 410ish flights. I was using EC5's up until the first incident, and then I moved to the PRC 6's. I think I fly too much- I do pack to pack to pack with no breaks. I'm using a WR Hercules Super BEC.

I figured the Anderson PowerPoles would be good because if you crimp the **** out of them then the solder ain't gonna melt and go by by...Anyhow, has anyone tried these with rapidly successive hard flights?

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04-14-2014 06:14 AM  4 years agoPost 19
JEEPWORLD2002/2

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Blue Bell, Pa

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You over heated the solder and it came apart ??? Wow lead solder has melting temp of 170c lead free has meling temp of 225c that's awful hot to wire to separate a ec5 joint I use the castle creations 6.5 mm bullets there like ec5 but bigger I know they are tough to solder as the 10 awg wire carries the heat as fast as the soldering iron can heat up I saw a 2-3s lipo powered soldering iron online pretty cool I use a pace base station to do mine with a 70watter heater in tip iron n dam If I don't have to crank it up then burn the ****e out of my fingers to hold the wire into the bullet then a tad more solder into the fitting al while not heating the wire to the point my heat shrink shrinks wish it were easier but I don't trust crimps. I ve seen 1 to many high pressure hydraulic lines leak and also seen crimps loosen over time with vibrations and slight amount of tugs separating connectors and if your flying back to back and charging that's a awful lot of tugs IMHO go with the bigg bullets or EC? S just get the wire n connector Hot and use lead free solder

Trex600n,Trex500,MR25,MikadoLoGo5003d/KDE,Goblin 380XNova,CastleCreations,Ys,JR XG8,Tags Mini XBus Dmss//FAA# FA3NYC9TAP

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04-14-2014 02:56 PM  4 years agoPost 20
copenhagen

rrNovice

Pickens, SC - USA

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Yea I switched to PRC 6's from the EC5's but I just had the same failure with a PRC 6 Saturday. I did get probably around 60 cycles out of said pack before the failure (350ish off the esc connection and still strong).

Anyhow, this is in no way about easiness- I don't mind soldering, in fact I rather enjoy it. I am not sure why you would burn your fingers- just use a little third hand tool with some carboard to protect your wire. I also use a block with an appropriately sized hole to hold the bullet. I use 60/40 solder and a hakko iron set at 750. Anyhow, I don't trust soldered connections anymore with back/to/back packs and a 6S setup. I've noticed many pilots like to diddle around between flights. I like to pop the canopy off, pop the battery out, pop a fresh one in, and fly again. I fly in my front yard, so I don't have to wait for anyone. I have to find a way to continue to do this, because I can't stand waiting around for the toy to cool. Maybe I need to try the 6.5mm connectors? Not sure how much difference that's going to make.

Somebody told me that the 35C packs could cause this issue of mine. Do you think a 35C pack will heat a connector under stress more than a 65C pack? That doesn't quite make sense to me, but I am not saying they are wrong.

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