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T-REX 700 › 700e motor ?
04-21-2011 11:10 AM  7 years agoPost 21
Ben-T-Spindle

rrProfessor

Central Illinois

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The problem with magnet failure is that at first the motor Kv will actually go up so it still feels powerful but the efficiency goes down and the motor runs very hot. After a few flights like that and it will overheat to the point where it will short the windings. When that happens it will take out both the motor and ESC.

... BTS

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04-21-2011 11:25 AM  7 years agoPost 22
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Ah! Good job there are used MX motors here and there! I wondered why the motor seemed to be getting hotter and hotter, thought it was the weather!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-21-2011 01:38 PM  7 years agoPost 23
Fnity

rrKey Veteran

Socal - Lafayette, IN

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If on a budget I would grab a MX asap, if funding is not an issue there are plenty of nice motors out there

Like Spindle noted it can cause esc damage and that's not a risk Im willing to take...

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04-21-2011 01:42 PM  7 years agoPost 24
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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I have just landed one on feebay that a guy was seperating from a new kit, its all good.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-21-2011 01:45 PM  7 years agoPost 25
HarveyR

rrVeteran

France - North

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Interesting thread... I think that heat is something to keep a clear eye on in all electric systems, and abnormal changes in heat emissions surely indicate abnormal mechanical/chemical changes. I think that in a well balanced motor system, all components should display similar heat generation (whatever that actually means).

For example, say with 25C LiPos you get a nicely balanced medium heat (50°C let's say) all over the system. Maybe if you switch to 40C you'll experience more power and cooler LiPos at the end, but it's likely you'll get greater heat on the ESC and/or motor.

My 700MX/120CC/40C all seem well balanced relative to my flight style (1900Gov and mild 3D) because it always comes down with well balanced acceptable heat across the system (you can easily touch everything for as long as you want, probably around 50°C, but difficult to say). With my 20C LiPos, the LiPos come down much warmer and the rest much cooler.

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04-26-2011 09:36 PM  7 years agoPost 26
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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New motor has arrived and I got to fly it today. Its 8-10 degrees C cooler outside today but it definatly runs alot cooler than the 700M! Noticably more power too! Its also 58g lighter! Ive lost about 20 seconds flight time though so im down to 4:10. I also needed to turn the gov gain down to 16, I was at 18 with the M, The headspeed seemed more consistant though despite the reduction in gov gain.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-27-2011 01:47 PM  7 years agoPost 27
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Checked the data logs after a hard flight at 1950 rpm, I hit 146 amps and 6080W! With the 700M ide struggle to hit 120 amps and 5000W! ESC temps were pretty much the same though. Gov gain now at 15 (Low).

Its given me over 1000W more power so im a happy bunny!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-28-2011 03:08 AM  7 years agoPost 28
AndyH

rrKey Veteran

Rockledge, FL

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I flew the 700M for 30 to 40 flights (?) and it always worked very well. I found a great deal (read cheap!) on a 510 kv 700MX, installed it and it does have more power. I only peak in the 4000 range on watts but it comes down cold flight after flight as does my CC80HV
Ditto.

I did upgrade my 700M to Boca Orange Seal bearings.It got hot, but seemed to still be working fine, and was always about the same heat.

The new 700MX is much cooler though! Awesome! I used to stick a 12V fan on top of the old motor to get it to cool faster, don't have to do that anymore! Still need to download the data log though, Only got one flight in with the new setup this weekend before it started to rain

This hobby is like Kryptonite to chicks!

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04-28-2011 06:45 AM  7 years agoPost 29
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Never use the rubber or teflon seal bocas, they will in fact seperate, I can tell you this for certain! Only if you use Bocas, get the steel shields folks!

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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04-28-2011 10:32 AM  7 years agoPost 30
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Stock bearings are Japanese so I don't see any reason to change them.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-29-2011 10:19 PM  7 years agoPost 31
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Stripped the PINION today, main gear survived! This is with the slanted gears. Motor can was up 5mm on inspection, the grub screws in the top were either not seated in the dimples in the shaft or had backed out, there was no sign of loctite on them!

Not sure which failed first, the pinion shearing teeth (3 all together), or the motor slipping!

Motor is now back together how it should be but I now have approx. 1mm up and down play on the can which im sure wasn't there before. It could be just that when the motor slipped on the shaft it has broken the bearing loctite and the shaft is now able to move in the bearings. All motors seem to have some play but it just feels excessive, shouldn't affect anything though.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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