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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › HIROBO Flybarless
04-22-2011 11:06 AM  7 years agoPost 41
gorn

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Western Australia

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Im pretty sure thats with VAT for european tax.

For the love of the hobby

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04-23-2011 02:05 AM  7 years agoPost 42
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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Hope so, or that head will be off the shopping list

Raptor 90 G4 / YS120SRX / VBar Silverline / Futaba / Rotor Rage / Edge

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04-28-2011 12:42 PM  7 years agoPost 43
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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Nice thread/topc.

Anyone tried the BeastX on their SDX? I'm planning to get one and convert my SDX to FBL. I'd love to go the Futaba way however it's too costly since I still need to get an SBus RX (CGY750 + 6203SB).

Actually I'm about to get my friends' bnew spare tomorrow, but I guess its best to still get everyone's very good opinions and experience here.

Thanks.

BTW, what other parts do I need for the FBL conversion? rods, linkages, ball links, washout/clamp? etc.

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04-28-2011 01:31 PM  7 years agoPost 44
gorn

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Western Australia

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Use the balls off the seesaw for the blade grips.
Im using Mikado ball links from the Logo 600, and Mikado 2.5mm 85mm rods.
They feel stronger than the stock Hirobo rods.
Im also using the Mikado Logo 600 washout base and arms.
Mikado ball links fit the Hirobo balls perfectly.

For the love of the hobby

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04-28-2011 03:40 PM  7 years agoPost 45
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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My SDX.

I use the harden pitch rod from the Turbulence. Should I switch to Mikado's 2.5mm rod?

I am waiting for the Mikado Vbar. Does anyone know if I can leave my 135 degree eccpm the way it is or I have to change to 120 degree set up for the Vbar? Thanks.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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04-28-2011 03:41 PM  7 years agoPost 46
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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thanks gorn!

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04-28-2011 06:24 PM  7 years agoPost 47
blackbird

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thessaloniki-Greece

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Here is my sdx with beastx ,4025-740kv motor,2 X 4000mah 8s lipo,ice 80hv esc..

[PHOTO]/gallery/59248

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04-28-2011 06:34 PM  7 years agoPost 48
blackbird

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thessaloniki-Greece

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04-29-2011 12:19 AM  7 years agoPost 49
gorn

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Western Australia

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depends on how hard your flying.
If its balls to the wall crazy, lots of pitch and cyclic, I would change to the Mikado rods and links.
Otherwise, the D3 links for your SDX will do just fine.

For the love of the hobby

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04-29-2011 01:39 AM  7 years agoPost 50
Brendan78

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NSW Australia

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I've heard vbar likes 120 degrees over 135

Raptor 90 G4 / YS120SRX / VBar Silverline / Futaba / Rotor Rage / Edge

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04-29-2011 05:09 AM  7 years agoPost 51
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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@gorn
Thank you for your advise. I don't fly hard stick banger but Mikado seems like as obvious choice.

@Brendan
That's what I heard as well.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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04-29-2011 09:23 AM  7 years agoPost 52
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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thanks piyaphan, blackbird.

anyone tried the microbeast yet? ordered mine thru a friend with the Mikado parts, they'll come next week.

this is exciting... not happy with my T600ESP with 3G FBL, still feels robotic esp. on piroflips, the SDX with FB really flies suave smooth...

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04-29-2011 03:11 PM  7 years agoPost 53
blackbird

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thessaloniki-Greece

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I have over 20 flights with the beastx and i'm very pleased with it. Also have the beastx in my trex500 too.

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04-29-2011 06:38 PM  7 years agoPost 54
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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I am waiting for the Mikado Vbar. Does anyone know if I can leave my 135 degree eccpm the way it is or I have to change to 120 degree set up for the Vbar? Thanks.
V-bar can use whatever swash angle your heli has. You adjust as needed in the setup page for swash.

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04-29-2011 06:46 PM  7 years agoPost 55
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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Got a reply from Mikado regarding swash set up:

Hello,

120° swash plate should working better.

Viele Grüße
Daniel Simmering
MIKADO-Service

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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05-03-2011 01:14 PM  7 years agoPost 56
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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@blackbird: thanks. was your SDX was set for 135/140? may I ask the distance from the center of the servo horn to each linkage rod, 10mm??? I'm nervous about the set-up, hopefully I get it done right

@piyaphan: i'd like to know what you used for the wash-out, I can see it's clamped on the shaft with the two guide pins still on aligning the wash-out with the head perfectly. btw, can I just use the long SDX push-rods instead? or reinforce it with CF tubes?

my Mikado parts are still for order, am excited to test the Beastx so I'll try to use what's just available and OK to use from the LHS

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05-03-2011 01:19 PM  7 years agoPost 57
Lewd Skywalker

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Manila, Philippines

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05-03-2011 04:26 PM  7 years agoPost 58
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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@piyaphan: i'd like to know what you used for the wash-out, I can see it's clamped on the shaft with the two guide pins still on aligning the wash-out with the head perfectly. btw, can I just use the long SDX push-rods instead? or reinforce it with CF tubes?
I used standard plastic wash-out arms and just cut out the short side.

I made 2 holes on the opposite side of the sliding block and used M3x3 set screw to secure it to the shaft. I also cut the bottom part of the sliding block off to make the clearance so the swash plate could move all the way up at positive pitch. Please see the new photo.

The long SDX push rods will be too soft for FBL. I think reinforce it with CF tubes will do the work.

I have changed my set up to 120 set up after I took this photo per advise from Mikado.

Cheers!!!

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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05-03-2011 04:29 PM  7 years agoPost 59
Piyaphan1

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Bangkok, Thailand

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BTW, the sliding block is metel (0414-466) from the Turbulence.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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05-03-2011 05:36 PM  7 years agoPost 60
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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RE the 3mm set screws in the slider, use FLAT TIPPED set screws to avoid buggering up the mainshaft too much. The load on the slider is very low, and its rotation is restrained by the pins as well, so all those set screws have to do is keep the thing from sliding down the mainshaft. Just snug the screws up with a little red loctite, and all works well.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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