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10-15-2010 06:55 PM  8 years agoPost 1
shotcheers

rrNovice

Kamas, Utah

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What's the best way to fly my receiver antenna wire?

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10-15-2010 06:58 PM  8 years agoPost 2
Adaboy

rrApprentice

Maricopa, AZ, USA

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Wow you beat me to this I've thinking about posting this too!!

Sounds like were cooking with gas....

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10-15-2010 08:05 PM  8 years agoPost 3
Gehrbox

rrApprentice

Charleston,SC

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What ever way you decide make sure it's secure. I had one come loose and was ripped off by my tail rotor about 20 yrs ago. My heli had slightly positive lift and floated away out of sight. Not a thing I could do to stop it, the radio would not respond. It got so high that I could hear it but mo longer see it.

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10-15-2010 08:16 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Gyronut

rrProfessor

Martinsville In.

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The best thing to do is just switch to a 2.4 system and forget about that 3 ft long wip.

But back when I was still use 72 I used Deans antennas and just wire tied them to the skids.

Rick

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10-15-2010 08:38 PM  8 years agoPost 5
Adaboy

rrApprentice

Maricopa, AZ, USA

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So you're saying that the new 2.4 rx don't have that long wire? Are these the ones with the two short stiff wires on the rx?

I remember seeing a thread where people were putting shrink wrap, and hot glue on them for added stiffness.

Sounds like were cooking with gas....

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10-15-2010 09:07 PM  8 years agoPost 6
kcordell

rrElite Veteran

O Fallon, MO

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With 2.4, no need to do anything to the antenna. Just install the way the instructions tell you to.
As far as with 72, get one of the antenna tubes, run the antenna into and out of the tube, secure the tube to the landing gear and let the extra (shouldn't be very much, just a few inches) dangle. Won't get caught up anywhere. By the time you put some type of strain relief (highly recommended), I use a servo wheel, just loop the antenna wire thru 2 holes in the wheel about an inch from the RX, attach this to the frame close to the RX (this way if you pull on the antenna, you pull the strain relief and not out of the RX) and route the wire down towards the antenna tube and onto the landing gear. Neat and out of the way.

Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, YS Engines, VelTye

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10-15-2010 09:10 PM  8 years agoPost 7
Steff Giguere

rrProfessor

St-Eustache, Quebec, Canada

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2.4 rx antenna to spectrum and JR need to do nothing because of length, 2.4 RX antenna to Futaba need be 45 degrees.

Team Synergy, Rail blades, Team Scorpion, V-Team

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10-15-2010 10:21 PM  8 years agoPost 8
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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2.4 rx antenna to spectrum and JR need to do nothing because of length,
But they need to have a place for the additional remote receiver with it's two antennae also.

The Futaba just have the one receiver with two very short antennae and it is suggested that the ends be located at 90 degrees to each other.

Phil

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10-15-2010 11:30 PM  8 years agoPost 9
kcordell

rrElite Veteran

O Fallon, MO

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Futaba 90 degrees for 'optimum' reception.

Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, YS Engines, VelTye

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10-16-2010 01:16 AM  8 years agoPost 10
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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You can use what you have for about as little as 50 cents, or you can go out and spend hundreds of dollars on a new radio and a fistful of receivers...

The answer depends somewhat upon the size of the heli. If it's a 250/450 sized heli, you have a couple of choices. 1 -- replace the long wire with something like the Deans Whip antenna, or 2 -- use the plastic tube that usually is part of the kit and neatly wrap the antenna wire around it.

Picture of option 1:

The Deans whip can be seen as the white, stiff, wire attached to the horizontal fin, pointing backwards. This got the antenna as far away from the rest of the electronics as it could. It looks a bit awkward, but worked. The downside is that you have to cut off most of the stock antenna and have some decent soldering skills. The Deans whip may set you back a few dollars but works fine.

Picture of option 2:

The black plastic tube from the Trex 450 kit is built to mount on the plastic eyes molded into the skids. Take the antenna, and neatly wrap it around the plastic tube. I used a piece of large diameter nylon string (heavy duty fishing line) as a spacer, wrapped with the antenna wire, to keep each turn of the antenna equally spaced from the previous turn. Finish off with heat shrink tubing, install, you're ready to fly.

For larger helis, route the antenna under the canopy as far away as practical from all other electronics, then exit out to the rear of the heli, straight out, stretched and tied with a small rubber bungee (rubber band, silicone tubing, etc) to the horizontal or vertical fin. Don't wrap it around boom supports, don't wrap it around tail booms.

Larger bird installation:

Some decent fishing line..

Some strain reliefs made from leftover servo arms that have been cut down...

A couple of different ways to install the strain relief up at the front end.....

The piece that will tie the antenna to the boom or fin...

The end that ties to the boom or fin mated with the free end of the antenna using silicone fuel tubing as a bunge3...

Rear end, installed, ready to fly...

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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10-16-2010 02:40 AM  8 years agoPost 11
GREYEAGLE

rrElite Veteran

Flat Land's

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Here's my method
Their's great method / and it works'! It's a long read but worth it !!!

I'll try to describe it as best as possible as it will protect the antenna from getting cut or balled up in a crash as it's a break away system / I'm still uncomfortable with loaded whips.

It work's well' !

Uses a 2- piece Nyrod set up and a couple of pieces of silicon fuel tubing.

You first slip a 4" piece of silicon tubing on the end of a inner nyrod.

Weave the antenna thru a button or small strain relief right up next to your RX.

Place a bit of talcum powder in your hands and thread your antenna down thru it starting at the silicon tubing end. The talc with allow it to slip right thru.

Trim the inner Nyrod so that aprox 1/2" of the attenna is exposed at the very end when the fuel tubing is up against the strain relief.

The tubing also gives you a flex area and anti = chaffing if it contacts the frame or canopy.

Slide the inner nyrod down thru the outer nyrod so that 1/2" of the inner Nyrod is exposed at the end when it is pushed up against the collar of the silicon fuel tubing up front.

Since 1/2" of the inner nyrod is exposed at the end - with a little 1/2" tail of the attenna sticking out // you fold the little 1/2" piece back over the inner Nyrod / and hold the whole shebang in place with a little 1/4" piece of of fuel tubing.

That's the Majority of it but theirs more !!

I know it's {a lot} of reading but here's how it works ! as theirs a bit more in hanging it off your tail supports

The outer nyrod is rigid enough to use cable ties to hang it.

Using short 1-1/2" section's of fuel tubing you hang it from the trusses.

First pull up a cable tie tight to one of the 'tail supports" leaving it long. Slip on a short 1-1/2" section of the fuel tubing ---

Pull up a cable tie on the "outer" nyrod shell tight - leaving it long.

Thread it through the prepped fuel tubing with its cable tie from the reverse direction. Theirs enough friction to hold it !!!!. If you want trim them with your nail clippers.

Here's how it works - and saves your antenna.

In the case of an EVENT.

The antenna shell assembly fall away from the fuel tubing tail supports.

The outer Nyrod is ridgid and takes the first WHACK and may shatter.

It's lighty held in place by the little rubber on the end of the inner nyrod.

It It get's hammered the little 1/4" rubber squirts off and the outer shell squirts off the inner nyrod.

If you really BALL one up ! The antenna it self will squirt out of the inner Nyrod as its in their floating also.

Never seen one cut with this method.

greyeagle

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10-16-2010 02:54 AM  8 years agoPost 12
AltecLansing

rrElite Veteran

North Carolina

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My vote is for a new futaba fasst system. Get at least a 7 channel radio. I know it costs more, but its worth the effort. You won't get the chance to be shot down by accident or on purpose. Also, if you go to a funfly with a lot of people there, you won't have your radio impounded, if they are allowing the older systems there. I know there is at least one flight field around here that is 2.4 only. Wasn't Ircha 2.4 only also? Someone will have to answer that as I don't remember.

Man, I miss the eighties.

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