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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Radikal upgraded swashplate question
08-14-2010 09:10 PM  8 years agoPost 1
ajcoholic

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Timmins, Ontario, Canada

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I am in the process of replacing my stock swashplate with the upgraded aluminum one I received this week. The aluminum one has zero play, which is awesome. The stock one, although it works, has developed play between the inner and outer ring over 6 hours of flight time.

My question: The outer rings and balls are in the exact same plane in the aluminum swash. However, the inner ring (which is the same diam as the stock swash) has shorter balls than the stock one. This would lead me to believe the throw to the head would then be different (less). WHy is this? And, can I not just replace the inner ring balls with the longer ones off of the stock swash, to get the exact same geometry?

Also, I plan to grind a little off the outer ring spots where the balls thread in, as at extreme throws of cyclic the ball inks contact the out ring. I sanded my plastic swash to avoid this, and the aluminum one can be filed to give the same clearance.

Thanks,
AJC

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08-15-2010 03:37 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Gearhead

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yes you can change the Balls, I have to say I never seen a Century Swash come with the Short Balls on the Upper Plate !!

""as at extreme throws of cyclic the ball inks contact the out ring""

I have never seen this ether, I have never seen a Century Heli needing that amount of Swash Deflection, so here I am wondering if you have something on the Head setup wrong, check your Linkage from the Swash to the Bellmixer, this Linkage should be connected to the "Short Ball" on the Bellmixer,
so the "Long Ball" on the Bellmixer should connected to the Seesaw,,

let us know cause as I said I have never seen a Century Heli needing that amount of Swash Deflection, you need to find out what is going on there !!

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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08-16-2010 12:34 AM  8 years agoPost 3
ajcoholic

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Timmins, Ontario, Canada

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Nope I have it set up right. On the stock swashplate setup, when you have full fore/aft and left/right cyclic the ball links on the inner ring (A arms and ball links) contact the outer ring "fingers" for lack of a better term. So I sanded the plastic as much as I could to get the max throw.

I got a reply from the Canadian distributor, that the aluminum swash has the shorter balls to prevent this when gettign the max throws. However using shorter balls also reduces the throw in itself.

SO, I put the longer balls on the aluminum swash inner ring, and I filed the fingers, making them round and now I can get full cyclic inputs at extremes without the ball links touching the swashplate.

I am not using crazy throws either, just my 100% end points on my 12X and the stock servos arms supplied with the kit.

Its not uncommon for many kits to have something on the head mechanics/swash contact one another when you have the cyclic stick in the corners.

AJC

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08-16-2010 01:44 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Gearhead

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""when you have full fore/aft and left/right cyclic""

oh yes, I see now what you mean, yes you will get a bind at that point,, they do make plastic "Cyclic Rings" you can mount on your TX for stopping the Cyclic Stick from reaching the corners,,

link,,
http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=531012

Jim
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08-16-2010 03:06 AM  8 years agoPost 5
ajcoholic

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Timmins, Ontario, Canada

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I have read about the cyclic rings but have never seen them in person or on line even... where do you get those?

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08-16-2010 03:07 AM  8 years agoPost 6
ajcoholic

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Timmins, Ontario, Canada

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never mind... I see the link

Thanks.

AJC

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08-16-2010 03:11 AM  8 years agoPost 7
Gearhead

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Jim
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10-11-2010 04:33 PM  7 years agoPost 8
ajcoholic

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Timmins, Ontario, Canada

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Just wanted to update this... for two reasons.

#1 - with my original Radikal LT/G10, I am loving the upgraded aluminum swash! Feels might tighter... and with the filing of the fingers I get full throws (100% servo motion) and even in the corners no binding.

#2 - I am finally getting to build my 2nd Radikal - the HD/Carbon version.

I also ordered a swash for it - but this one CAME with the same balls (same length that is) as the original plastic one... so I didn't have to swap them from my plastic one to the alum. one.

Weird.. same part number, but they came with different inner ball lengths.

AJC

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10-12-2010 06:55 PM  7 years agoPost 9
oldfart

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Vancouver, Canada

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Weird.. same part number, but they came with different inner ball lengths.
Thanks for bringing that up.

I had brought it to the attention of Century many months ago, as when I checked the ones I had in stock, they all had the wrong ones on teh center star so they sent me the proper ones and I had all of our stock changed over.

They thanked me for the heads up and said they would check the ones they had in stock and would put a bulletin up on their site to inform any who may have purchased some with the longer ball joints to exchange the balls.

The bulletin may have been put up, and since taken down, but I never checked afterwords as we had changed all of ours for our customers.

Actually, the ones with the longer balls worked fine and would actually give more cyclic throw per degree of swash tilt. The problem is that if one set-up the heli with too much cyclic pitch it could result in the links attached to these balls to bind against the outer star at the attachment points of their ball joints.

Phil

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10-14-2010 06:33 PM  7 years agoPost 10
chopper_crazy

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Delphos, Ohio

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When I built my LT carbon fiber bird my plastic swash play that came with the kit wasn't even usable. It was seperated into two pieces. I called century and they immeadiately replaced it with the aluminum one. I was very impressed with the customer service that I had while building the G20 Radikal

It's a complex, costly, glow powered anti-gravity machine!

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