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 Sold  Used Z-Power Z50A-800 Motor (780 kV) needs shaft SOLD
08-14-2010 08:25 PM  8 years agoPost 1
c130pilot

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Windsor, CO

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Was running this in a Trex 700 conversion for photo work. Runs great despite the fact that the top bearing went dry and wore a groove in the shaft. Still running just fine but I think it was giving me some vibration issues in the photos I was taking. Bought a replacement motor as I was unable to find a shaft for this one. Maybe someone wants to use it as is or try to replace the shaft on their own. No idea if you can even do that on this model. Leads are fairly short and come with 6MM gold bullet connectors. There is enough room to de-solder the bullets if you want something different but running this with a 12S lipo was frying speed controls with 4mm connectors so I'd recommend sticking with the 6mm's.

Let's say $18 shipped.

Tim

Help! I'm umop apisdn

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08-16-2010 11:54 PM  8 years agoPost 2
c130pilot

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Price reduced

Help! I'm umop apisdn

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08-18-2010 08:37 PM  8 years agoPost 3
heli_headcase

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Hovering around Atlanta

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PM sent earlier today. Thanks.


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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08-19-2010 03:14 AM  8 years agoPost 4
c130pilot

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SOLD Pending payment

Help! I'm umop apisdn

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08-19-2010 03:31 AM  8 years agoPost 5
heli_headcase

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Payment Sent. Thank you!


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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08-20-2010 03:07 AM  8 years agoPost 6
livninlv

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las vegas,nv usa

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does this motor have an 8mm shaft on motor side then goes to 5mm?

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08-24-2010 05:31 AM  7 years agoPost 7
heli_headcase

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Yeah, sorta. 95% of the shaft is 5mm dia. From the exposed tip all through the bearings and back to the point it's entering into the end bell cap is 5mm. But at the exact point that it disappears into the cap it grows to 8mm. There are no set screws, snap rings or anything showing how it's retained into the cap.


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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08-24-2010 11:03 PM  7 years agoPost 8
heli_headcase

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Correction and update...
I was TRICKED!!! I am now working on "Tricking Out" this Z-Power motor and it's almost done.

Tricked? How?

I thought I saw a full 8mm diameter section of shaft at the point of it fitting into the bell end. Wrong! What I really saw was three 5X8mm shim washers deep, down in the darkness of the bell and it wasn't until I grew suspicious and poked at them with an X-acto knife that I figured out what I really saw. When removed, the shims allowed me to see the true size of the 5mm shaft and guess what? It was 5mm...

The idea of upgrading the shaft to 8mm is useless. The motor's core is designed in such a way that nothing larger than 5mm dia can pass through it. 5mm just squeaks through and I mean just. I could struggle with pulling the existing shaft but why if the only damage is a 5mm-long section of wear at the place it contacted the upper bearing?

Here's my plan, mostly done:

With the 3 shims removed, there's still no interference or contact between the bell and motor mount/stator/windings. The shims were thick enough so their removal allowed a small portion of the worn shaft to be exposed above the bearing's inner race. I replaced the bearing so there would be zero wear on its I.D. and that little bit of unworn shaft contacting the unworn bearing now allows for perfect centering of the shaft-in-bearing. High strength Loctite will be applied at that contact point, keeping the shaft from moving inside the bearing and also will keep it centered. Service or disassembly will be close to impractical so this may end up being a "throw-away" motor when I'm done.

I also upgraded the top bearing from the stock 5 X 14 X 5mm to a 5 X 16 X 5mm hoping there would be a better compliment of balls inside with which to handle the loading. The bearing pocket was opened up 2mm and the new bearing is a perfect press fit. Oh, the motor almost fell apart in my hands; mounting end and lower bearing holder were only slightly epoxied into the central hole of the stator stack and provided little resistance to coming apart.

I really don't like seeing a 5mm diameter shaft running through a 50mm motor but it is what it is I suppose. The price was right so it's worth playing with. I think my Razor 600 will be getting this unit in place of the Actro 32-3 Max currently installed. The belt-pulley system lets me pick the perfect ratio and the heli thrives on 10S LiPo.

This motor is best on 10S and I don't think 12S is suggested or recommended UNLESS you're planning on using LiFe (A123 type) cells. 12S LiPo higher voltage could place the motor's stator into magnetic saturation and I think that's what was blowing ESC's, not the size of the connectors used to hook the motor and ESC together. I'll bet...

This really isn't the place for forum-like discussion of motors but where else could I post my findings on something sold here, in this forum? I may post pix of the motor's internals before this is done. Tim, refrain from closing this thread for a little longer, OK? Thanks!

BFN...


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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08-25-2010 10:49 PM  7 years agoPost 9
c130pilot

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Windsor, CO

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Well actually it was a 14S A123 setup that had 4mm connectors. After agonizing over the right motor/pinion/battery combo I calculated I should be getting about 6.5 minutes of flight time at 80% battery use but I was getting only about 4 minutes and after just a few flights fried a HV-85. Put another HV85 on and while it didn't blow a capacitor like the first one it just stopped working one day.

Long story short is that once I put the 6MM connectors on the flight time jumped to over 6 minutes which was much closer to my original estimates and I've been running the setup on the same HV85 ESC for nearly 1.5 years now with no trouble save the worn shaft.

Tim

Help! I'm umop apisdn

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08-26-2010 06:39 AM  7 years agoPost 10
heli_headcase

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^^^^^ That is so weird. Don't know if you understand the reason for the popped caps, but it's due to high ripple current. This is caused from very high current peaks at motor commutation frequency. Defficiencies in wiring between the ESC and battery pack can be the main cause or the use of a motor operating outside its efficient rpm range.

Was the throttle curve set unusually low as a means to get a rotor speed down to where you needed it vs reducing the pinion tooth count? I ask because that was the reason behind my overheating an ICE HV80 while doing the first test hovers with my Caliber 90 e-conversion. Steve of Castle support saw my ICE data log output and noticed a very high ripple current recorded in my system, high enough to quickly kill the input filter capacitors if not fixed. Too late because the ESC failed on the next test flight and didn't recover after cooling. Castle now has it and will attempt to recover my data hidden inside.

The 4mm vs 6mm connector swap -- Hmm... I wonder if there was more to it that wasn't noticed at the time? Guess we'll never know

OK, thanks!


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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08-26-2010 04:51 PM  7 years agoPost 11
c130pilot

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Windsor, CO

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I'm confident in the connectors being the issue. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Castle as well as with Brian from Tanic Packs who made the custom A-123's for my setup. Ripple current was indeed discussed (and yes the capacitors role in that) but the consensus from both Castle Creations and Tanic Packs was the connector size for the specific setup I have running. All I can tell you is that once the connectors were changed the flight time went up and the ESC's have been lasting.

FYI this was operating (and still is) at or near 100% throttle. Curves are basically (give or take) 0,100,100,100,100.

Help! I'm umop apisdn

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08-26-2010 04:58 PM  7 years agoPost 12
heli_headcase

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Oh well, I'm out of ideas on that subject

Maybe some day I'll understand why that was the fault of the connectors but right now I can't comprehend. Thanks for the info.


HHC

So many heli's - too little time...

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