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08-13-2010 02:43 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Heli Ace X

rrApprentice

Crystal Lake, IL

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What dont you like about the Aurora or E-Aurora? I have never heard any bad things or cons about either of them. Is there anything?

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08-13-2010 03:11 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Wingman77

rrProfessor

Pulaski Tennessee

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TT gears and $$

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08-13-2010 03:59 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Clarence Creer

rrVeteran

Fort Worth, Texas

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Actually the cost of spares are EXACTLY the same price as another major heli manufacturer. As far as the tail gears go, just take your time and set the mesh correctly.

Team Kontronik Team minicopter/PeakAircraft
VTeam EvoPowerBattery

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08-16-2010 09:43 AM  8 years agoPost 4
brgsstm

rrApprentice

Cheshire, U.K.

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Hmm, now you ask, there is not one thing that I dislike about the Aurora.

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08-16-2010 01:00 PM  8 years agoPost 5
kazager

rrApprentice

Waldorf, MD - USA

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1)I don't like all of the plastic parts in the tail and the torque tube ends.
2)I think a lot of people (and maybe I'm the only one) don't like the way the main gear is pinned to the shaft.
3)I don't like the pushrod guides for the tail servo, and the way you put heat shrink on it, very sloppy.
4)I don't like the way the boom supports are built with the sleeves, looks cheap to me, also they are made straight, but have to be bent when the support is installed. I do like that they are on the gear and not the frames.
5)I don't like the way the parts are bagged, it doesn't aid at all in finding the screws that you need. I guess there are too many disimilar parts in the same bag, don't know how I'd fix it exactly, just know I liked that less than with other kits.
6)I don't like for all the money you spend for these kits that they don't come with 1)blade holder 2)canopy thumbscrews at a minimum.

Flying $uck$...All of the money out of my bank account!

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08-16-2010 09:27 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Hokie_Steve

rrApprentice

Virginia Beach, VA - USA

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Landing gear seems a little soft. At rest, the gear spreads in the back and the heli rests on the carbon tail fin. Might try another type. Flys nice though

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08-17-2010 06:03 AM  8 years agoPost 7
kazager

rrApprentice

Waldorf, MD - USA

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Hokie Steve
You need to put some torque on the gear strut. Loosen the set screws on the REAR LG. Then squeeze the Gear pipes together at the rear, and re-tighten the set screws. this puts the pipes under tension and adds rigidity to the gear, while raising the tail out of the dirt. This trick is on the AvantRC site - GENIUS!

Flying $uck$...All of the money out of my bank account!

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08-17-2010 10:13 AM  8 years agoPost 8
Hokie_Steve

rrApprentice

Virginia Beach, VA - USA

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Thanks Kazager I'll give it a try!

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08-17-2010 02:27 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

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The only thing I don't like about my e-Aurora is that I don't have two of them.

But seriously, I am totally afraid of plastic parts, yet the plastic in my Aurora seems to be performing flawlessly. The helicopter is built to be easily repaired. Every part of the helicopter is accessible with a minimum of work (except for the Scorpion 4035 motor which I cannot figure out how to remove without splitting the frames--but maybe someone knows a secret here?).

Some people have complained about the pin through the main shaft, but I personally think this is the best part. It is possible to pull the head of the heli in about 30 seconds. The pin/set screw arrangement works very well. After my last crash, I was able to pull out the main shaft to inspect if for damage--and this took me a total of one minute. Try that with a Stratus.

Maybe there are aspects of the helicopter that I will discover I do not like (as I have been plagued with ESC problems and have not had as many flights as I would have liked), but for now I am enjoying it quite a lot.

I had thought the canopy was a little bit of a PITA to put on and off tightening down all 4 screws, but with the RCBooya quick release, it is now very easy to take on and off to replace the batteries.

The Aurora is meant to be flown hard, and if need be, crashed often. When you have an Aurora, you do not have the fear that you will need to spend many hours fixing something after a crash. When you put the helicopter into the ground, if is at most an hour to repair it. In fact, if you know what you are doing, you can build the entire e-Aurora in about 3 hours. The most time consuming part of the build is threading the ball links onto the rods. Honestly, what took me the most time with building mine was reading the manual carefully to be sure I understood what was going on. The design is somewhat unconventional.

The Aurora parts are relatively cheap (now)--at least through Amainhobbies. Carbon fiber boom for $30. New torque tube for $15. The most expensive part of a crash is having to buy new CF blades. Even the fully painted canopy is relatively cheap at around $80. But my canopy is pretty durable and has survived a couple of hard hits with the ground with minimal damage. The sacrificial canopy mounts help a lot.

I can't speak for the nitro as I have not owned one, but I am really enjoying my electric.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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08-17-2010 05:16 PM  8 years agoPost 10
Jason Bell

rrElite Veteran

California

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(except for the Scorpion 4035 motor which I cannot figure out how to remove without splitting the frames--but maybe someone knows a secret here?)
Jeez I guess I will give up the secret!

Unscrew the setscrew that holds the pinion assembly on the motor shaft, and unscrew\remove the whole pinion\bearing block assembly. Unscrew the Motor mount form the frames, and from the motor. You can then take the motor mount up through the top of the frames, and the motor out from the larger hole on the left frame of the aurora. Pretty simple.

I also had a bit of fun during Ircha and timed how long it took to replace a mainshaft. 6 minutes, 45 seconds..and I am sure I could of done it faster.

Justin, pleasure meeting you at IRCHA, I know you will be enjoying your E Aurora ride

Jason

AMain.com
Mikado "V Team"
Xnova Motors
Optipower USA
RCProPlus

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08-17-2010 05:37 PM  8 years agoPost 11
fast88lx

rrNovice

NY

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what up
hey Jason

nice to meet you at IRCHA just to let you know the 4035-530 motor works great max temp 189 with the ice 80hv on the hottest day there with frank columbia flying it it made 9hp 150max amp

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08-17-2010 05:39 PM  8 years agoPost 12
RyanW

rrKey Veteran

Edmond, Oklahoma

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You beat me to it Jason! I pulled my Scorpion to inspect the bearings and change the pinion.

I too thought that it was going to require removal of the frames, but it dropped right out like you mentioned.

I will be replacing the front bevel gear set and see if I can do it with everything still attached as well.

For botching the auto like I did, it didn't do too much damage!

-Ryan
Mikado USA, Kontronik, Opti-Power, MKS Servos

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08-17-2010 05:40 PM  8 years agoPost 13
Jason Bell

rrElite Veteran

California

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Great to hear the 530kv is working well! I figured it would, 500 works great - when you trick the software, 560kv is overkill in my opinion and now we have a middle ground - the 530kv

AMain.com
Mikado "V Team"
Xnova Motors
Optipower USA
RCProPlus

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08-17-2010 07:35 PM  8 years agoPost 14
Justin Stuart (RIP)

rrMaster

Plano, Texas

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ok. Now I've got the secret on the motor. Thanks for the clarification, Jason. I think I got a little bit of Loctite onto the motor shaft/pinion so I was trying to get it out with the pinion still on. I think the heat gun will take care of the Loctite, and it sounds like separating the pinion from the motor makes the motor fall out quickly.

IRCHA was great fun, guys. What a fantastic experience. Can't wait until next year.

Avant RC
Scorpion Power Systems
Thunder Power RC
Kontronik Drives

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