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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Question for making push/pull rods.
08-09-2010 07:00 PM  8 years agoPost 1
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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I want to make some of my own push/pull rods. There are 2.5mm rods on the N5. I was thinking about buying .086 misic wire and using a 2.5mm die to cut the threads. Would this work? Here is the stuff I was going to use. http://www.amazon.com/Music-Wire-0-...h/dp/B001LIGCD4

Thanks Chris

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08-09-2010 10:33 PM  8 years agoPost 2
cudaboy_71

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sacramento, ca, u.s.

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i found this info on music and piano wire a while back when considering the same thing.

a couple of things turned me off:

1) the fact that while technically the wire is not hardened, it can become even harder than properly hardened materials through the compression technique used to reduce the diameter of the wire. this is important because you're considering putting threads on them. i imagine you'll get about .5 thread per die done before you need another die. that's going to be one expensive set of links!

2) there was a section talking about the repeated annealing making the wire more brittle than non-annealed wire. not a pleasant thought considering your application.

of course this was just my personal research and conclusion. maybe someone else has done it and can recommend the materials to do it.

if it ain't broke, break it.

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08-09-2010 10:39 PM  8 years agoPost 3
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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What rod did you end up using or do you have a suggestion for another type of rod.

Thanks Chris

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08-09-2010 11:10 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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If you live by a large bicycle shop see if they can thread the rods for you.

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08-09-2010 11:11 PM  8 years agoPost 5
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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I'm not worried about threading the rod. Just looking for the right rod.

Chris

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08-09-2010 11:45 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Busher

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Manchester, England

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If your sure you want to make your own rods and sometimes I do, there are several routes you can take. Bike spoke material is pretty good and will work providing you can get the spoke in the correct size for your application. You will then usually find that the thread has been rolled onto the wire rather than cut, giving a somewhat larger diameter thread than the original rod. Therefore after you cut your thread on the other end the 2 threads will have a slightly different OD. If you can live with this than this is a good option. The next is to buy yo push rods ready made to the length you require.
I have however cut my own with great success. You will need the following for success.

A length of silver steel rod in the diameter you wish to use, Make sure you get Silver steel and not just steel that is silver in colour, and a hardened die. Do not buy a cheap die as you will get upset when the threads come off all chewed, don't ask how I know. A good thread cutting lubricant is always worthwhile.
Put a good lead in taper on your rod and use the die to cut your threads to length.

Silver steel has never let me down, it is hard but machinable and can be heat treated to tool hardness if required, I use it as it comes and it works well. I have also used it to make main and tail shafts on my 30 and 50 size heli's when I was short of the odd part, so I know it is up to the job.

Good luck
Busher

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08-10-2010 05:33 AM  8 years agoPost 7
antja

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Levin new zealand

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why dont you just buy threaded rod in metre lengths and cut to the size you need.

Tony.

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08-10-2010 09:50 AM  8 years agoPost 8
Busher

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Manchester, England

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why dont you just buy threaded rod in metre lengths and cut to the size you need.
I have done this in the past and it works ok, but sometimes its difficult to get the correct thread and pitch you require for the job. And they always seem to rust after a few months which makes the model look a bit untidy.

Good luck
Busher

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08-10-2010 11:34 AM  8 years agoPost 9
antja

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Levin new zealand

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buy galvanised threaded rod no rust problems the thread size amd pitch dont matter.

Tony.

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08-10-2010 12:33 PM  8 years agoPost 10
merlin3

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dayton, ohio

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fully threaded rod is significantly weaker you do not want to use it for push rods.

Justin - Team Horizon, Team Byron
2-700x, Trex 700n, small helis

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08-10-2010 04:30 PM  8 years agoPost 11
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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I made my own rods back in the day. I found it was hardly worth the effort.

  

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08-11-2010 02:27 AM  8 years agoPost 12
GMPheli

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W. Bridgewater, MA USA

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You can also make carbon ones. See this thread:
https://rc.runryder.com/t532442p1/?...carbon+pushrods

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08-11-2010 06:15 AM  8 years agoPost 13
antja

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Levin new zealand

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3mm galvanised threaded rod is a lot stronger than bike spokes
at under 2mm before you cut the thread.

Tony.

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08-11-2010 07:06 AM  8 years agoPost 14
ch-47c

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san jose, ca

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I used to buy a couple of the long tail rotor control rods and just cut with a pair of dykes and dress the end with a file and threaded the ends with a die. Never had any problems. I did this with Schluter and Xcell helis.

Music wire is too hard. The tail rotor rod is the same spec as the other rods in a kit. Unless it is stipulated otherwise and I've never seen that yet.

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08-11-2010 10:18 AM  8 years agoPost 15
Busher

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Manchester, England

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I used to buy a couple of the long tail rotor control rods and just cut with a pair of dykes and dress the end with a file and threaded the ends with a die. Never had any problems. I did this with Schluter and Xcell helis.
Thats a good idea, there is plenty of material for a good set of push rods on one tail control rod. I forgot I did a similar job on my raptor 30 tail control when I could only get a 50 size rod.

Nice one.

Good luck
Busher

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08-11-2010 11:11 AM  8 years agoPost 16
ch-47c

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san jose, ca

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Thats a good idea, there is plenty of material for a good set of push rods on one tail control rod.
"I like to roll my own."

.

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