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› Raptor 50 conversion
05-09-2011 06:06 PM  7 years agoPost 81
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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I still don't understand why you want the added weight and complexity of the fan and clutch, I would do as I did and chuck them!

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-09-2011 06:09 PM  7 years agoPost 82
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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WOW! I really need to update my pictures in my gallery. My Erap50 has been changed several times since then!

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-09-2011 06:21 PM  7 years agoPost 83
matador_24

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Montreal, Quebec

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Could you post pictures of what you did?
If you installed directly the motor to the main gear, could you tell where you got the pinion or adaptor you used?????

thanks

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05-09-2011 06:24 PM  7 years agoPost 84
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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The pinion adaptor was from a TPPacks kit. However I have made my own as well. All you need is a coupler that goes from your motor shaft size to an 8mm 1.25? thread. I've got a tap for the thread size on the stock pinion.

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-09-2011 06:26 PM  7 years agoPost 85
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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Or you could go from motor shaft-coupler-pinion shaft(pinion on it) then up into a bearing.

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-09-2011 06:52 PM  7 years agoPost 86
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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The latter would be easier to do without a tap. Stock Drive Products Inc (http://www.sdp-si.com/) has the couplers and shafts. Then use an ERaptor pinion or simular. For the top bearing use one with the same diameter outer race as the pinion bearing but an inner race the size of the pinion shaft (5 or 6mm).

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-09-2011 09:33 PM  7 years agoPost 87
Rosa

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Canada

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Matador

Here are some pics of the clutch without fan,I looked at the typhoon motor with the 5mm shaft from hobby king that you are getting and the shaft is 23mm long.
The prop adapter accepts only 11mm of the shaft of any motor, so you could cut the shaft down 12mm.
Cutting out the fan gives you an additional 17mm for a total of 29mm to help raise the motor.
I also meassured to see if the typhoon motor would clear the base of the frame and it would. You may be able to get a few more mm if you can tap threads further down the prop adapter shaft(with your fancy new tap and die set) so you can thread the clutch down the prop adapter shaft further.
Where the prop adapter sits now with the clutch shoes in the bell, it looks like you might have to make your own motor mount(something like Heli143 did with a carbon sheet or even plywood or aluminium)
Hope this helps some.

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05-09-2011 09:46 PM  7 years agoPost 88
matador_24

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Montreal, Quebec

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It looks good.... I might try it out... I am still waiting for Heli143 feedbacks because he managed to do it without cutting off the fan. My only concern of cutting off the fan would be to have the base of the clutch perfectly balanced, otherwhise, it would vibrate, non?

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05-09-2011 11:20 PM  7 years agoPost 89
Rosa

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Canada

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The base of the clutch is aluminum and files down easy enough,I know in my pics it looks like a hack job and to be quite honest it was.I have since took a little time with a file and it looks much better.

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05-10-2011 10:35 PM  7 years agoPost 90
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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I received a PM from matador asking why I had not responded yet. I wasnt ignoring him so I apologize but I am constantly on the road with my job and I left St. Thomas, VI this afternoon for Puerto Rico so I am now in San Juan for the remainder of the week.
I am on the hotel computer but it will be easier once I get back home.

In the meantime I hope you guys are out there having fun with your helis!!

Roy Mayoral

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05-11-2011 01:28 AM  7 years agoPost 91
matador_24

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Montreal, Quebec

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Hello Heli 134,

I was not pressuring you to answer, I am sorry if I misstated my PM. I just meant that instead answering me by PM, if you could answer in the forum so that others could read. Do not worry about that, take your time and thanks a lot!

P.S. Have a safe trip!

P.S.2. Yes, I am enjoying weather flying helis while it lasts!

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05-16-2011 01:38 AM  7 years agoPost 92
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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OK I am back home but sick as a dog.
Picked up food poisoning while in St Thomas so spent a day in bed while in PR. What a lousy week it has been LOL

Matador, no pressure felt I just know you would like to get your project completed and it's hard to have to wait on someone else for information. that company I emailed about adaptors never responded.

I just finished taking a bunch of pictures of each component so that you can see how I am setting mine up and what mistakes were made by me and a buddy who tried to help me out by cutting down my adaptor.

I will post the pics and comments in the morning while at work as that computer runs very fast while my wife's laptop (which she doesn't like me playing with) is slow...

take care!!

Roy Mayoral

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05-16-2011 03:08 PM  7 years agoPost 93
PJRono

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Minnesota, Ya!

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This is a pic of what I'm talking about, but you can shorten it up to fit the 50.

If you skip me I can't play!

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05-16-2011 04:52 PM  7 years agoPost 94
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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OK. here are some pics which might make the conversion using the T-rex 600 motor mount and an adaptor so you can still use the clutch easier to see.
I will try not to confuse anyone.

this is the raptor frames. It is a V1 version and my V2 version seems the same in the clutch area.
the small ledge insde the frames can be cut down just a bit to let the mount sit a little farther up in the frame but I think there is enough meat there to make the screw hole.

Roy Mayoral

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05-16-2011 05:02 PM  7 years agoPost 95
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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note the adaptor has to be cut down about 1/8 inch or else it is way too long and won't let the clutch shoes seat right in the fan hub.
you have to make sure that you leave enough of the adaptor bolt coming thru the hub to use the nut prop on there.
As you can see from my picture my buddy cut it too short so once the adaptor is on the hub there is not enough bolt left sticking out to use the prop nut.
since the hub has to be cut down some also, I think my buddy cut more off the adaptor than the hub which messed me up. So I will cut my spare adaptor to the longer length.
As Rosa had said earlier, the hub is soft metal and can be filed down easily also.
Notice that I cut the fan off the hub but not sure that it is necessary.
also notice that the starter shaft protrudes just a bit into the clutch shoes but that is not a problem as when you cut the adaptor bolt down there is no conflict.

Roy Mayoral

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05-16-2011 05:19 PM  7 years agoPost 96
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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now once all that cutting is done, you can install the adaptor onto the motor and set it as close as possible to the motor bearing.
I added a picture of the adaptor and a measurement of how deep the adaptor is so you need at least that much on the motor shaft.
then install the hub and secure it with a prop nut with locktite.
put on the clutch shoes and push it up into the frames.
now you have to mark where the mounting screw holes would go. when you go to mark the holes, make sure that the system is lined up straight and check it by turning the main gear and feel for a nice smooth turn.
I will place a mark in line with the motor mount holes using a permanent marker. then measure up to the hole center and use that measurement to know how far up to drill the hole in the frame. On my other conversion the holes were slightly off and I had to slightly elongate them, but once bolted down, I have had no issues with virbation or loosening.
as you can see even with just a little more that can come off the hub to raise the motor mount in the frames, it sits in there pretty good. and I did not trim the little ledge inside the frames. I may grind that down just a bit before completing this job.
If anyone has any suggestions or comments please do not hesitate to chime in as I will not be insulted. This conversion makes it possible to do the conversion without laying out a bunch of cash and it is relatively easy. But I am new to this arena so I also have a lot to learn and I can never learn enough

there are probably easier ways to do this conversion but this one allows you to use the clutch and if you have seen the video of my other raptor conversion which copetdoctor did for me using his mount, the start up is very turbine like (at least to me).

Roy Mayoral

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05-17-2011 03:53 AM  7 years agoPost 97
matador_24

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Montreal, Quebec

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Thanks a lot for the pictures!
I haven't got the motor yet, I'll continue with the set up as soon as it arrives. Is the 600 mounting fitting right into the frame? because last time I checked mine it was not fitting completely, if I centered into the frame, it would have about 3mms both sides, did it happen to you guys? I guess I just would have to put some washers????

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05-17-2011 11:58 AM  7 years agoPost 98
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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yes, mine fits right between the frames. It is not a tight fit but there is almost no play at all. If you have a small gap you should be able to use a washer in there and once you center it and bolt it up you should have a tight fit.
Last night I used my trusty dremel with a cut off wheel to grind down the ledge inside the frames. Now the whole power system fits right in there so I can drill the hole where there is a little more meat on the frames as opposed to very close to the edge.
I slid the system in and checked the clutch and everything is turning super smooth with no drag or catch whatsoever.

Roy Mayoral

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05-18-2011 12:07 PM  7 years agoPost 99
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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matador,
here are a few more pics. As you can see, the mount fits in there nicely and even without the bolts tightened down there is no unnecessary gap.
I drilled the front holes and must have been luck because the front hole came out right on the nose. Now to do the back holes and she is just about ready for a test flight this weekend.
I spun the main gear and still smooth turning.

Roy Mayoral

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05-19-2011 01:25 PM  7 years agoPost 100
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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OK, last night I drilled the second set of mounting holes on the frames and Again I got lucky as the first hole was right on the money. The second one I needed to open just a little bit using an exacto knife, but it is mounted.
I took the following pics with longer screws on there so you guys could see them easier, but for final mounting I will probably be using M3 X 6 screws. The whole system is nice and tight between the frames and it still runs very smooth with not even a hint of binding or tightness at the clutch.
I just need to take the whole thing apart and make sure everything is locktited, reinstall, connect the esc, etc...
I am hoping to test fly it this weekend

Roy Mayoral

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