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04-23-2010 11:32 PM  8 years agoPost 1
Against Gravity

rrVeteran

Pottstown PA

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I am not through my second gallon of fuel, and my swash plate is showing some serious slop.
Does any one know if I can install a T600 swash. I have a Quik UK swash that I could use. The dimensions are not the same but I wonder if it would work.

Thanks for any help

AG

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04-24-2010 06:06 PM  8 years agoPost 2
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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Just replace it with this one from the Predator.

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...m?prtnm=HI3146C

Take the rear ball link with the guide extention and replace the rear ball hoint on this one.

As the front radial guide is not needed, you can just remove it also.

OR you can also just pop in this one from their big 620SE electric:

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...tm?prtnm=CNE561

They both will work very well.

Phil

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04-25-2010 02:33 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Against Gravity

rrVeteran

Pottstown PA

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Better Swash
Thanks Old Fart
That is what i will do. Got one more for ya, I would like to upgrade the head for better 3D. I don't need allot of bling, but would like to stiffen it up.
What can I get away with, Just a head block or do I need to go all the way.
What model heli parts should I use.
Oh and I have finished off my first set of dampeners "the black one's" Is there a better option ?

Thanks Again

AG

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04-25-2010 03:19 AM  8 years agoPost 4
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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I have switched both of my Radikals over to a Metal Center Rotor Block. To do it you need the following parts....

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...1¤tid=208

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...A¤tid=328

http://www.centuryheli.com/products...0¤tid=328

You will also have to grind the spindle spacers down a bit. Their OD is just a tad too large to fit in the CNC Rotor Block.

I am using the stock plastic blade grips.

For a harder set of dampers, the K&B Dream Greenies work. That is what I am using. It is a bit of a tight fit, but they will go in with some coaxing.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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04-25-2010 08:57 PM  8 years agoPost 5
Against Gravity

rrVeteran

Pottstown PA

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Thats what I need
Thanks Again Sparx
Did you notice a big difference in flight ?

AG

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04-25-2010 09:36 PM  8 years agoPost 6
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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Yes. It tightens up the cyclic quite a bit.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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04-26-2010 06:22 AM  8 years agoPost 7
chopper_crazy

rrElite Veteran

Delphos, Ohio

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When I built my Radikal it had a defective swashplate. It was seperated into two pieces. I called Century and they let me pay the difference and get the metal swash. Couldn't ask for better customer service!!

It's a complex, costly, glow powered anti-gravity machine!

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04-26-2010 10:47 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Against Gravity

rrVeteran

Pottstown PA

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Swash Trouble
Yeah I think it should be a standerd piece. The Radikal is to heavy and powerfull for that plastick swash.
Any one who wants to do 3D flight with it should order it with there kit.

AG

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04-26-2010 10:49 PM  8 years agoPost 9
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Swash
When I built the kit also, the one out of the box was defective with too much slop in it. I got it replaced with another as well. If I knew you could trade up to a metal one, I might have gone that route instead.

Waiting on the auto hub fix, that's the stickler left in the kit.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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04-26-2010 10:51 PM  8 years agoPost 10
James Kovach

rrKey Veteran

canton, oh - US

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While I agree with you that they should be standard, I can see their point as well. Not everyone is going to fly 3D with their helis, so rather then make it standard, they offer it an optional upgrade. Either way you would end up paying for it, be it in the kit standard or as an upgrade. Same with the center hub. If then included these things statndard, you'd probably be looking at $575 for the kit vs $499. So why not just make it optional and keep the kit price lower.

Even if you buy some upgrades for the Radikal when you are building it up, it would still be inline with any other Quality helicopter in this size.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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04-26-2010 10:57 PM  8 years agoPost 11
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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I have to wonder about this "auto hub problem" to be honest. I have 2 kits, one with over 2 gallons thru it and the other getting damn near 2 gallons thru it. Both are running the stock hubs that were installed during their respective builds.

Now mind you, I did take a little more care when installing mine than what others do I am sure. I cleaned mine and then lightly oiled them. One of them did stick a little bit after the first 4/5 flights, but I tore it down again, re-cleaned and re-oiled it and cleaned up any marks it had made on the sleeve. It is now just like the other. Spins nice and free and does not lock up at all.

I do have some "ideas" as to why some are having issues and others are not, but I will reserve that as they are going to put out an upgrade for those that want it. But I fully believe if you follow what I did with mine, you will have no issues with the auto-hubs.

FYI, I am not being easy on these helis by no means. Every time I fly them, I fly them trying to break them with the hardest 3D I am capable of doing. Just ask Bill

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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04-27-2010 01:09 AM  8 years agoPost 12
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Hey Robin
Batman tested this reported autorotation hub problem. He auto'd 20 to 25 times in a row and it failed - case closed and hence why the upgrade is coming.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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04-27-2010 01:38 AM  8 years agoPost 13
James Kovach

rrKey Veteran

canton, oh - US

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Still not sure why you have to respond to my posts in the manner that you do. But hey, whatever.

If you are referring to yourself as Batman, then I am in no way, shape or form the Robin to your Batman and you are in NO WAY superior to me. So you can drop the BS anytime. As I stated before, there is nothing I need to learn from you or need from you.

First off, when you Auto your heli, there is damn near NO LOAD on a one-way bearing. It is FREE-WHEELING and not locked onto the shaft. So I cannot think of any reason a one-way bearing would fail from Autos unless your one way is filled with CRAP. This would not be the fault of the bearing or the heli, but the fault of the END-USER.... IE YOU!

Case closed? Pretty egotistical to call your self the final say in these matters.

The upgrade is not coming out for the reason that you state. They are producing it as an upgrade for those that are running Modified engines in their Radikals as they did not design the drive system to hold up to the kinds of power and torque these modified engines are putting out. So do not mis-inform people and mis-lead them into thinking that they must do this upgrade if they are running a stock engine. In stock form with a stock engine, it will hold up just fine. My stock Radikal is proof of that or I got some "magical" bearing.

How is your Radikal and Engine working out for you Raja? I am hearing not so good?

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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04-27-2010 03:09 AM  8 years agoPost 14
Asid

rrVeteran

uk

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nu na nu na nu na nu na Rbort (in batman stylee)

If it ain't broke then break it.

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04-27-2010 03:51 PM  8 years agoPost 15
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Thoughts
I'm not Batman actually, so take another guess on that one
As I stated before, there is nothing I need to learn from you or need from you.
I never asked you to learn anything from me, but in the past I've seen you read my posts and later make some other posts with some recommendations that you picked up on from reading my replies. You may not admit it, but I felt good that you learned something after seeing you change your recommendations from your previous posts. Remember you're been flying gassers for like 5 months, so reading alot helps and I see it which is good.

On the auto hub thing, when you're 'free-wheeling' it that's when its getting hot and the plastic is breaking down. When its locked and you're flying its not in use and will last longer then turning it. That's part of the reason for failure besides the fact that the plastic is not strong enough for gassers. You can call century on that and talk to them to get updated, they will tell you don't auto it too much or take breaks between autos to let it cool down.
a one-way bearing would fail from Autos unless your one way is filled with CRAP. This would not be the fault of the bearing or the heli, but the fault of the END-USER.... IE YOU!
All kidding aside here, we're talking about a brand new auto hub from whomever right that Century gets. Don't you think it should be clean out of the box instead of filled with CRAP and armed to fail so to speak? FYI I did clean mine (and I really shouldn't have to) but both of them failed nevertheless due to heavy auto use.

The case is closed by Century, not by me. Again, I'm not the only person who saw this issue, there are several auto hubs that have been replaced. I reported it, they had it tested by their field rep, and they confirmed the failure.

Basically Sparx the auto hub is marginal at best. You apparently have to cross all your t's and dot all your i's to extend its life, but sooner or later it can fail on you and that can bite you if it does it at the wrong moment and causes you to crash. My first failure I was in a middle of a stationary rolls and barely enough altitude and was very lucky to get the machine down in 1 piece. The second one I knew better and was expecting it. Someone who doesn't know how to auto will certainly panic and most likely crash if they are far and away when it happens.
So do not mis-inform people and mis-lead them into thinking that they must do this upgrade if they are running a stock engine. In stock form with a stock engine, it will hold up just fine. My stock Radikal is proof of that or I got some "magical" bearing.
I'm not so sure about how much time you got on yours. I heard that when you went all the way to Huntsville you put in 2 flights on Friday and 1 flight on Saturday and that was it. Man when I go to 3 day funfly's like I will be in a couple of weeks you can ask anyone I put in about 20 to 22 flights over the 3 day period or 5+ hours in the air. Go do some more reading of previous posts from funfly's from last year and you'll see me writing that at the conclusion of the events thread.
How is your Radikal and Engine working out for you Raja? I am hearing not so good?
Where did you hear that? You know I was testing the modified G20 motor in there which has been optimized and perfected. That thing flies smooth as silk as you've seen on a video here before and the 3D max version makes more power to boot. Testing always takes time and effort, so maybe your source misinterpreted that as "engine troubles".

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4220 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3310 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1618 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 473 flts

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04-27-2010 06:20 PM  8 years agoPost 16
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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Raja, you need to get Larry your buddy to keep a better account... there was more than 3 flights put on the Radikals...

You have made a BIG deal out of this because you had problems and have everyone worried about the bearing..There just has not been enough to be concern over this...

Paul Pan is the one who agreed with you on this nonsence of heating up after autos, only after you have nagged the hell out of everyone..

It is of course impossible for drag to heat up enough to the plastic cage. You can auto from the moon with a dry bearing ad it want heat up, its polished unloaded steel.. Over compression is what damage the bearing mainly on 6.0 ratios
Simple fact...Century has corrected this on the second batch with standard 6.4 ratio and has replaced the bearings for those who had a problem...

As for as cleaning the bearing before use, that is what I do when having a problem on any machine that shows a problem. You seem to think your spectra doesn't have to have bearings clean. Kinda like when you had been flying for years, and didn't know how to adjust your auto clutch to get rid of the shakes like I showed you huh?. But later you invented it yourself..Is Al gore from your State?

You are so arrogant to accuse someone of plagiarism of what you know?

Speaking of which it is very noticeable that Century doesn't come in and make comments about the Spectra when folks are having trouble like you do with Century...Well, that is about to change..I'm taking this personal, with good reason, because you know you have had a vendetta out because you are jealous, back stabbing and a very greedy SOB

The shake rattle thread was very amusing with the Spectra problem with you stating that you had "NEVER heard that before" problem
Well, I know about 10 spectra owners in TX and LA that put their machines up because of "never heard before" problem..But you as you always do, you never publicly say the problem, but call them, and those others are left hanging...
If I was MA, I would pay you not to fly the machine...I suggests you go to Heliproz fly in this year so they can get a real gut full of your arrogant self, but then again, bet that engine is not as smooth as it was, huh?

Screw you
Bill

.

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04-27-2010 08:59 PM  8 years agoPost 17
Zman

rrKey Veteran

Florida

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Game Set Match

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04-27-2010 09:16 PM  8 years agoPost 18
S76 Mech

rrElite Veteran

Hatboro, Pa.

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subscribed... this is gonna be good!

Gaui Greatness X7, X5, NX4, X3

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04-27-2010 09:20 PM  8 years agoPost 19
Chris Bergen

rrElite Veteran

cassopolis, MI USA

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My my....

Sounds familiar.

Chris D. Bergen

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04-27-2010 09:29 PM  8 years agoPost 20
Frank Bostwick

rrElite Veteran

Cincinnati Ohio

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Its been brewin for some time now.................

RIP ROMAN

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