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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerobatic FAI F3C F3N Contest › GY-520, ICE FAI Setup?
04-06-2010 05:23 AM  8 years agoPost 1
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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My previous experience was with G7000Ts. I now find myself with this GY-520 and I know its a great gyro, but can someone offer some FAI setup tips for a GY-520/FAI beginner?

I went in with the PC and changed it to "F3C" so far. Heli isn't ready for limit setup yet but some of the other parameters are interesting.

Can someone help with some starting parameters? Hoping for a first flight this weekend!

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04-06-2010 06:01 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Honestly and to start, you need to do very little.

Fly it in FAI mode.
Set the response rate to normal.
Set the frame rate as per your servo type (BLS-251 is ideal).
Set the limits as per the manual either with the stick or the interface.
TRIM THE TAIL MECHANICALLY IN RATE MODE BEFORE SWITCHING TO AVCS!!
Adjust your piro rate with the rudder AFR.

Fly it like that and see what you think. If there are any issues with bounce at the end of piros or inadequate piro rate, I can tell you what to tweak in the interface.

Let me know what you need help with from there. You might like it just like it is. It's a fine product.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-06-2010 11:34 PM  8 years agoPost 3
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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Thanks Ben! Not close to ready to fly yet but getting closer daily. I'll definitely do the rate mode mechanical adjustment.

Edited title to add another question without littering this forum with stoopid noob Qs.

In castle setup my 10S 12/115 Neu 520KV exceeds limits above about 1700 at 100% SetRPM. So I set 1700, 1600, 1500. The calc on ready heli shows much higher numbers:

Voltage for this calculation (avg):3,552/cell with a total of 35,52
Nominal voltage: Spoolup RPM 100% throttle no governor (37v): 2008
Avg RPM you will see with 100% throttle and no governor: 1908

Max normal bogging applied you will see RPM at: 1735
(this number should be the minimum if your motor & battery is up for the challenge)

Maximum RPM before Castle Link program goes red: 1717

...or I don't understand what they mean? I can fly helis, but I'm really don't know much more than a complete beginner when it comes to electrics, CCPM, FAI.

Do I need a 13?

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04-06-2010 11:44 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Save and email me your ESC file to tbminor@juno.com . What the headspeed calcualtor says, what the ESC says, and what happens in reality are sometimes three different discussions.

In that same email, I need all your model data: model, gearing, motor, batteries etc. It saves me jumping back and forth between RR and the email.

Ben

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-08-2010 04:13 PM  8 years agoPost 5
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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Thanks again for the personal help Ben.

Is it normal for the motor to warm fairly quickly while testing no load?

Also, I plan to start adding drivetrain parts (mainshaft, then tailshaft, then head, then finally blades and the first test flight) to my mechanics and retest checking for added vibrations. Is there any concern for the motor running no load at SetRPM speeds?

Finally, my 700 tail boom only has one bearing. I remember running 3 on my R90. Is it a good idea to add 1 or 2 more - unevenly spaced of course?

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04-08-2010 04:17 PM  8 years agoPost 6
F1 Rocket

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Melbourne, Florida USA

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Finally, my 700 tail boom only has one bearing. I remember running 3 on my R90. Is it a good idea to add 1 or 2 more - unevenly spaced of course?
If this is a T-Rex 700 it should have two bearings on the the TT.

Danny

Danny - DemonAero Support Team

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04-09-2010 02:37 PM  8 years agoPost 7
AlexV

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Dubai, UAE

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I have question to guys who use phoenix hv esc in governor mode.
What governor sensitivity do you use?
Currently I use 11.
I noticed strange behavior of my heli when i hover tail to strong wing.
There is some tail oscilations (1..2hz, 10..20 sm amplitude).
When It hovers nose to wind - all ok
I tryed to change gyro settinsg - no difference.
maybe it's connected with motor and governor settings - tail rotor takes much more power when tryin to keep tail to wind and motor load changes frequently also...

I fly trex700e + rotortech fai 220gr blades
sorry for off topic

Alexander

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04-09-2010 05:42 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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The governor isn't going to keep up at 11%. Mine will even lag a fuzz at 17% in heavy wind in hover.

Is your firmware updated to 3.20?

Will your model tolerate any more gain?

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-09-2010 06:20 PM  8 years agoPost 9
AlexV

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Dubai, UAE

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I use ver 3.0
I tryed about 20% at old version (don't remember number)
It looked too much
is ver 3.2 significantly better?
I did't tryed more than 11 on current setup- i did't have castle link at hand

Alexander

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04-09-2010 07:41 PM  8 years agoPost 10
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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20% may be too much; it is for my model.

17% is the most I can run.

It's always best to run the most current firmware.

Other things in your set up may be a factor. Post all your setting for PWM, motor timing, and so forth.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-09-2010 07:57 PM  8 years agoPost 11
AlexV

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Dubai, UAE

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esc cc85hv
motor scorpion 4035-500
12s
gear ratio 10.25
pwm 12khz
timing 5
governor high
i just updated to v3.2

Alexander

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04-10-2010 02:03 AM  8 years agoPost 12
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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Alex,

Drop the PWM to 8. Set the motor timing to LOW. Set the governor to 17%. Fly it that way and let me know how it works.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-10-2010 07:39 PM  8 years agoPost 13
AlexV

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Dubai, UAE

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motor has become very hot at 8khz
i returned to 12
i decreased timing advance to 3 and increased governor sensivity to 19
I tryed 20 to 22 - too much.
now it hovers much better.
ver 3.11 and 3.2 does not work with my esc at all.
after update to 3.2 esc stopped to recognize zero throttle and motor did't rotate.
I tryed v3.11 - same result.
i had to return to v3.0

Alexander

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04-11-2010 01:57 AM  8 years agoPost 14
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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I'm going to wager you didn't recalibrate the ESC after the firmware update; you need to.

I run timing at 0.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-11-2010 07:58 AM  8 years agoPost 15
AlexV

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Dubai, UAE

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I never did calibration and can not find in manual how to do this...
btw - What is Outrunner Mode in pwm settings. I read help but didn't understand anything

Alexander

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04-11-2010 02:13 PM  8 years agoPost 16
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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I'm confused about calibration too. Does this refer to setting the high and low travel limits? I also noticed on a couple occasions during testing mine did not arm at zero throttle. The next time it did.

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04-11-2010 03:26 PM  8 years agoPost 17
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Calibration:

1. Take the blades or whole head off the model for safety.

2. Using the Castlelink, put the controller into "Heli - Fixed Endpoints" at the top of the "throttle" screen. The other option is governor, which you won't use until after calibration. Click the "autorotation" option box.

3. Put a default 0-100% linear throttle curve in normal. Nothing in it at all. Low stick is 0% throttle, and high is 100% throttle.

4. Reduce both of your throttle atv's to 50 or 60%.

5. Turn on the transmitter and model. ESC throttle lead is plugged into the throttle channel on the receiver.

6. Go to 100% throttle. Plug the ESC to the motor batteries. The motor is off course hooked up since it's the "speaker" to create the beeps. No, the motor won't start.

7. With the stick at WOT, increase that side of the throttle ATV until the ESC makes a "warble" sound, then go one or two point further. It'll be somewhere around 85%.

8. Unplug the ESC from the motor batteries.

9. Reduce the throttle stick to full low, throttle trim centered.

10. Plug the ESC back in. Increase the other side of the throttle ATV as before until the ESC warbles again, then go one or two point further. This side will be well over 100%. That's OK.

11. Unplug the batteries and turn off the airborne. Change the throttle curve in normal/hover back to 0% @ low stick and 25% straight across from there.

12. Hook the ESC back up to the Castlelink and change it back over from Fixed endpoint to set rpm. Reenter the set rpm data or reset to governor high mode.

13. Grease the maingear if you've not already done so. Put the dog away and set the model in the floor. Turn everything back on, plug in the batteries, and confirm it spools up as expected. While you're there, and after the model is armed in NORMAL, switch into throttle hold and set the throttle position to where the motor is just a point or two below where it tries to run with the hold switch activated.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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04-11-2010 06:03 PM  8 years agoPost 18
AlexV

rrApprentice

Dubai, UAE

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Thanks Ben.
But this procedure more looks like radio calibration not esc.
I'm going to try it tonight but i don't understand what is WOT?

Alexander

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04-11-2010 07:36 PM  8 years agoPost 19
ErichF

rrElite Veteran

Sutton, NH

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Good grief, Ben...I've seen autopilots with fewer setup steps!

I thought the CastleLink was supposed to make things easier?

Don't these things have auto-calibration for throttle?

Erich

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04-11-2010 08:40 PM  8 years agoPost 20
AlexV

rrApprentice

Dubai, UAE

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After performing this procedure i got high throttle atv 87% and low 135%.
all previous versions worked with 100% and 109% respectively, it is strange..
Thanks Ben

Alexander

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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerobatic FAI F3C F3N Contest › GY-520, ICE FAI Setup?
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