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HomeAircraftHelicopterFuel-Helicopters New or Limited ActivityElyQ › Finished Ultimate
03-11-2010 09:52 PM  8 years agoPost 1
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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I finally finished building my Ultimate last week. Having alittle trouble getting the engine to run and with me being new to nitro's I can guess that the problem is my tuning ability

TT Redline 53H
4x Hitec hs945mg
Align 2n1
Solid G Gyro
JR8900G w/align step-down
DX7 w/AR7000
CoolPower %15
TT R3 glowplug

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03-12-2010 03:51 AM  8 years agoPost 2
oragami

rrVeteran

Florida

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Where are you at on your needle, and your idle circut? maybe we can help

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03-12-2010 10:34 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Callum

rrApprentice

Blaby, Leicester, England

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Looking Good There!

About your tuning issue, i would reset to the carb defaults (Should be listed in the Instruction booklet)

Then, tune the lower (idle) needle as follows using the pinch method

The pinch test is the First method to tune your Idle Setting:
1. Hover the helicopter for 30 (somewhat) seconds
2. Land it and drop the RPM to idle
3. Pinch the fuel line closed just before the carburetor (where the fuel line is connected to the engine) and start counting the seconds
4. The engine should rev up and die because of lack of fuel.
5. If this is between 3 and 5 seconds its all right

a. Sooner? Too lean
Turn the Mixture control screw richer for 10 degrees counter-clockwise

b. Longer then 5 seconds? Too rich
Turn the Mixture control screw leaner for 10 degrees clockwise
6. Return to step 1 until you got it right

Then the next step is to do "Hanging RPM Method"

If an engine is running lean then the RPM will “hang” (RPM stays high for a sec) is the throttle is
lowered to idle.
1. Hover the helicopter for 30 (somewhat) seconds
2. Land it and drop the throttle to idle
3. The RPM should drop immediately
4. If the RPM do not drop immediately but kinda “hangs” in a higher RPM before dropping

a. Too lean
Turn the Mixture control screw richer for 10 degrees counter-clockwise

b. Return to step 1

5. Does the RPM drop but the engine is smoking heavily and is sluggish?
a. Too rich

b. Turn the Mixture control screw leaner for 10 degrees clockwise
c. Return to step 1

6. When you got it right, turn it rich for 10 degrees and you are done.

Then the next step is tuning the high end needle using following method:

Step 1
Hover the helicopter and check if the RPM stays stable and the smoke is “normal”.
Is the RPM increasing after a while? Then its too lean.
!Land the helicopter and turn the Main Needle 3 clicks counter-clockwise (richer)

Is the engine loosing power after a while? Then its too lean.
!Land the helicopter and turn the Main Needle 3 clicks counter-clockwise (richer)

It the engine sluggish and not getting up to speed? Too rich.
!Land the helicopter and turn the Main Needle 3 clicks clockwise (leaner)

Step 2
Fly the helicopter full speed horizontally.
If the engine is loosing power it is too lean.
!Land the helicopter and turn the Main Needle 3 clicks counter-clockwise (richer)

If the engine is running too rich then it is sluggish and will not come up to speed.
!Land the helicopter and turn the Main Needle 3 clicks clockwise (leaner)

In doubt?
Play around with the Main Needle until you get the optimal performance.

Another way to fine-tune this is to do a fast forward flight and do a hard climb into a stall-turn. Listen to the engine bog down. Play with the Main Needle to get your optimal performance on this manoeuvre.

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03-12-2010 02:01 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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My settings from what the manual stated are: Idle screw - flush, and needle valve is open 3 turns. I can get the engine to fire but is will die almost immediately longest I had is running at idle was less than 10 seconds.

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03-12-2010 02:11 PM  8 years agoPost 5
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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Callum

Thanks that's alot of info and will try to work on it when I get home today. I haven't even tried to fly yet because I cant get the idle right, I don't have the blades on while I try to get it idling.

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03-12-2010 03:10 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Callum

rrApprentice

Blaby, Leicester, England

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Hi There, Anytime Dude! if it helps print some of the information off when you go and try and get it to start

You will want the blades on as this puts a load on the engine, if you dont have blades on you can and will damage your Engine

Couple of pointers:

Have you got the carb open enough for it to start and stabilize? if it starts but cuts out increase the throttle a bit or better yet the throttle trim

What glow plug are you using?

and what fuel are you running?

Regards
Callum

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03-12-2010 03:30 PM  8 years agoPost 7
oragami

rrVeteran

Florida

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I know the manual says 3 turns out, but to me that seems a bit extreme. If you are using 15% fuel, you will need to lean your mixture a bit more. I think you are just to darn rich, and from your idle circuit to your high needle, it cannot make the transition and falls on its face.

I would take the needle and go to around 2.5 to 2.25 and get it started. Then put it into a hover for about 1 minute, land and check your temp. On your first tank you want your temp to be around 130 or so in a hover. After the first tank in a hover, you can start to fly around without loading the motor, again for just a minute or so, then land and temp the Head, not the back plate. Again, you want your temps to now be around 140 to 160. Then go from there.

I break all my motors in based on temps, and unlike most, I fly my heli's straight away. I don't baby them in a hover. As long as you are not overloading or bogging the motor, and the temps are around 140 to 160 range, you are good to go.

Hope this helps

Craig

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03-12-2010 03:36 PM  8 years agoPost 8
Callum

rrApprentice

Blaby, Leicester, England

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I thought that too Craig, 3 on the main needle seems very very rich!

That actually seems the root cause of the issue!

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03-12-2010 05:07 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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All trims are zero and at 0 throttle stick the carb is in the fully closed mark. I have not used any throttle to start I kinda figured that carb close position was not really fully closed but just enuff to start and idle. And I will put my blades back on I didn't know about that.

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03-12-2010 05:46 PM  8 years agoPost 10
Callum

rrApprentice

Blaby, Leicester, England

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Up the throttle a bit or up the trim

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03-12-2010 09:34 PM  8 years agoPost 11
Alexm0324

rrApprentice

Atlanta, Georgia USA

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The TT RL53 is not a great place to start if you are new to nitro.
I fought with one for 6 months and I know how to tune. I never did get it right. I tried all the shim combinations, different plugs, fuels, and 1000 different needle settings. It would still rattle the heck out of the helicopter and spew fuel all over. Replacing the RL53 with a rebuilt OS 50 was the best thing I ever did.

I do hope you get it working. I would love to hear a success story with the RL53 that didn't involve all kinds of modifications or headaches just to get it to perform. Seems like a 50/50 chance based on what I experienced and have read here.

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03-12-2010 09:40 PM  8 years agoPost 12
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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Im gonna try the TT first, I thought the TT was a good name based from my observation and have been around awhile. I guess we'll see what happens

450Pro~Vision50~EXI450~

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03-12-2010 09:45 PM  8 years agoPost 13
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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Ok got the steps printed and its RAINING here. Hopefully I can try tomorrow. Also how much THR trim should I use?

450Pro~Vision50~EXI450~

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03-13-2010 04:42 AM  8 years agoPost 14
Callum

rrApprentice

Blaby, Leicester, England

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Keep on increasing the throttle trim until the engine fires and stabilizes

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03-18-2010 12:14 AM  8 years agoPost 15
Oracus

rrApprentice

West Terre Haute, IN

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I follow your suggestions and it works not perfect yet but it runs. I had to cut short cause I needed to correct the gyro. So I cant wait to get it back out again.

Thanks

450Pro~Vision50~EXI450~

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