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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 50 › Titan - main blade tracking with Kasama head
03-08-2010 08:39 PM  8 years agoPost 1
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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Last time I came across a strange situation - I have been flying with some GCT fibreglass main blades on a Kasama head @ 1800rpm for about two years, and I thought I might give some carbon-fibre blades a go. So I borrowed a pair of Align 600D Pro blades and bolted them on.

The tracking was immediately out by a large margin - perhaps 2 or 3 centimetres. I thought that was pretty unusual. After adjusting the short link to the blade grip on my marked blade/grip, I found that I could not get a decent track without putting the link on backwards. A single 360 degree turn would go from bad in one direction to just-as-bad in the other direction. By putting the link on backwards (which I'm not all that happy to do), there's still about a 1 cm difference in the tracking. Perhaps I need to replace the link with something with a finer pitch...

Why should these CF blades be so difficult to track, and why are they different to the fibreglass GCT blades that tracked perfectly?

I know that this pair of blades came together - it's not a case of one from one packet, one from another. They don't look warped or twisted.

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03-08-2010 10:01 PM  8 years agoPost 2
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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Maybe the FG blades are out?

In any case, putting the link on backwards is no big deal as long as you leave it be. Put it on and off a lot that way and you'll either wear it out or get stress cracks.

Some folks put them on backwards on purpose to make it harder for them to pop off by accident.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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03-08-2010 11:18 PM  8 years agoPost 3
Billebob

rrVeteran

Tim-buck-2

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By putting the link on backwards (which I'm not all that happy to do), there's still about a 1 cm difference in the tracking. Perhaps I need to replace the link with something with a finer pitch...
Perhaps you should be making finer adjustments than 1/2 turn.If what you say is indeed accurate information try the long link at the mixer arm for fine tuning.

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03-08-2010 11:36 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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Align did have a recall on some C/F 600mm. blades, for insufficient stabilization. Horizon Support should have a bulletin on it.

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03-09-2010 12:19 AM  8 years agoPost 5
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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Hmmm, interesting responses, thanks everyone. I think I'll buy some non-Align CF blades and see how they behave. That should give me a good idea as to which set has the problem.

Can anyone recommend some good but not too expensive CF blades? Ideally something I can buy from my local store.

How about those silver Funkeys? CYB Radix blades?

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03-09-2010 12:43 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Gary H

rrVeteran

Minnesota USA

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We use SAB`s here in the cold country and they track perfect, auto great, fly great!

Gary H

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03-09-2010 01:19 PM  8 years agoPost 7
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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Blade type is something you mess with to get the heli flying the way YOU like it.

My favorites are Rotortech 610's on the Titan but SABs are excellent, stable, and auto extremely well, and the Radix standard weight blades are great.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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03-09-2010 07:51 PM  8 years agoPost 8
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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I've had a couple of local recommendations for the Thunder Tiger "TT V2" blades - has anyone else tried these?

http://www.thundertiger.com/product/3878.html

The SAB blades sound good but nobody in NZ sells them. But there are a few Radix blades around at a 'premium' price...

BH - you're right, it's a matter of personal preference. Unfortunately due to extremely limited supply down here, it's rare that anyone gets to try more than one or two brands (unless they crash a lot).

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03-09-2010 11:49 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Peefor

rrVeteran

Norfolk UK

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I've had a couple of local recommendations for the Thunder Tiger "TT V2" blades - has anyone else tried these?
I've used several sets of these (and still use them), with a Kasama head. The only thing I found was the original hovering head speed of 1500 had to be raised to 1550 to get rid of a slight wobble. Higher head speeds are no problem.

The blades auto alright as well.

Pete

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03-10-2010 08:56 PM  8 years agoPost 10
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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Peefor, thanks for the comment.

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03-22-2010 12:48 AM  8 years agoPost 11
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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Ok, just to close this off - I bought some TTV2 blades and they seem fine to me. They track with exactly the same setting as the Align blades (one link backwards) so I can only conclude that the older GCT fibreglass blades were tracking oddly in the first place.

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03-22-2010 03:06 AM  8 years agoPost 12
Tom Wrobleski

rrApprentice

Wyoming Michigan

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You do not want to adjust the short links to track blades. The short links or double links should be the same length and left alone. You make adjustments with the long links from the swash.

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03-24-2010 03:43 AM  8 years agoPost 13
meowsqueak

rrApprentice

New Zealand

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@Tom Wrobleski: are you sure about this? My understanding was that you adjust the long links (from the swash) to make sure the mixer arms are exactly level at centre-stick with a horizontal flybar, then you adjust the short links to get zero pitch on the main blades at the same centre-stick. If you adjust the long links then aren't you upsetting the mixer arms neutral position?

But this says nothing about adjusting tracking... so if I've got it wrong, please do tell me why

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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 50 › Titan - main blade tracking with Kasama head
03-24-2010 05:05 AM  8 years ago •• Post 14 ••
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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+1

I've adjusted the short link for years and it works great. I also like symmetry in my mixers which can only be accomplished with equal length long links.

Besides, I read two manuals just now that say adjust the short links. Only my Blade 400 has you adjust the long link, and that is because the short link is not adjustable.

If a single 360 degree turn is taking you WAY out track the other direction, the blade is simply unstable and no matter what you adjust you will not have a good setup.

Replace the blades. That is not good for your heli as all that unstable movement energy is being transmitted through the mechanics and servos.

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03-28-2010 03:45 AM  8 years agoPost 15
Tom Wrobleski

rrApprentice

Wyoming Michigan

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Was talking to guys a the field today about why not to adjust the double links on a Raptor. It messes with the flybar ratio. Meaning that as the flybar rotates around the paddles are not biting the same. Kind of hard to explain. If you look at the newer helis like the Trex they make the links so you cannot adjust them, you have to adjust the long links only.
Just my opinion.

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03-28-2010 04:17 AM  8 years agoPost 16
LonR

rrElite Veteran

Macomb,Mi

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I also allways adjusted the short links on my Trex 450's,Raptor 30,Raptor 50,Trex 600N and both Raptor 90's,never had a flybar ratio problem .Had a Trex 450 sport which had non adjustable short links so you have no choice but to adjust the long ones.

600LE,OS55,OS PowerBoost pipe,Align 610's,Spartan

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03-28-2010 05:05 AM  8 years agoPost 17
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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We can banter about this all we want.

This is for a Raptor 50. The Raptor instructions say to adjust the "link to the main rotor blade pitch arm" to fix tracking issues.

That link can only be the short double link that goes to the blade grip ball (i.e. blade pitch arm). It wouldn't be the long link as that goes to the mixer.

I do this and it has never adversely affected any of my models.

Do what you will with your model, and I'm sure it will probably still be OK in the grand scheme of ways to mess up a setup. But whenever an RR pissing match gets started, I can't understand how you can get beyond the manufacturer instructions. It doesn't make sense to argue it when what to do is right there in ink from the guys who built the thing.

That said, what you describe in this case sounds more like crappy blades causing out of track condition. I've never had to do more than a turn on the short link unless I got a cheap set of woodies.

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03-30-2010 03:24 AM  8 years agoPost 18
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I use both if needed. Start off with both the long links and short links the exact same length. Set one blade at 0º pitch at mid stick with everything at 90º. Then swing the other blade around and check it. If it's more than 1 to 1.5º out then I'd start looking for a problem somewhere besides the linkage length. Use one twist of the short link to get you close then 1-2 turns on the long link to get it spot on. If I have both blades reading 0º at all 4 cardinal points then it'll track right when I'm flying.

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