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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Autos
03-09-2010 12:25 AM  8 years agoPost 21
jamienz

rrNovice

Auckland, New Zealand

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Think I found the reason for the wobble... my tail blades have been hammered in the long grass and must have picked up a few stones. Time to buy a new pair.

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03-09-2010 12:42 AM  8 years agoPost 22
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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I had to remove the sleeve around the feathering shaft inside my 600Ns head to help with autos. When I was using it, I would get a nasty front/rear bobble at the end of long autos. It would still auto fine... but I could stretch them out a lot longer without the sleeve. The autos seemed much smoother after removing it.

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03-09-2010 04:38 PM  8 years agoPost 23
dhc8guru

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, Texas

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Auto'ing a 450? An urban legend around my parts..a few have claimed to have seen it done. I heard you needed to be going about 90mph to make it happen.

I have "auto'd" my 450 when a connector came off the motor..it was more of a controlled crash.

Scared of doing it with a 600? They auto so well you would swear you can be doing your taxes at the same time.

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03-09-2010 05:43 PM  8 years agoPost 24
LaurenceGough

rrElite Veteran

UK

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Autoing a 450 is pretty easy if you do it right, wind helps too as do decent carbon blades.

I learnt autos on my 450 as that was all I had at the time, very possible and good fun, maybe you might tip it over like I have once or twice out of many, no damage just pick it up check it over and fly again.

Now I am flying a Logo 500 3D, which had 503mm blades at first, felt better than my 450 for sure, learnt autos with more controlled landings into nose in, side in or tail in. Now I have 553mm blades it is a whole different beast can do even bigger adventurous autos such as ones with piros in or backwards ones and land it where you want (I love it!).

Today I was autoing a Logo 600 V-Bar with 603mm Edge blades, you know, it didn't auto quite as well as I thought, only slighter better than my flybarred Logo 500 with 553's still awesome!

Now I don't bother with the 450s other than a tiny one to land at the end of the pack.

I love autos! It's a whole different area of heli flying.

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03-09-2010 08:23 PM  8 years agoPost 25
dhc8guru

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, Texas

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Watch the Curtis Youngblood auto training video on the Helifreak forum. Very informative. Something interesting was when his Heli almost tipped itself over after landing while the rotor was spooling down. He said he has to program the flight command to drop down to 40% when he hits the T-Hold switch because flybarless equipt heli's have tip themselves over if you let the controls "go" after landing. He didn't get into explaining the details. I am not a flybarless guy so maybe someone could explain this better.

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03-10-2010 01:11 AM  8 years agoPost 26
chopper_crazy

rrElite Veteran

Delphos, Ohio

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You can do it!!!

It's a complex, costly, glow powered anti-gravity machine!

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03-10-2010 01:17 AM  8 years agoPost 27
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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Auto'ing a 450? An urban legend around my parts..a few have claimed to have seen it done. I heard you needed to be going about 90mph to make it happen.
Not very precise, but this is just a beat up 450V2 with well over 1000 flights and tons of abuse

Watch at YouTube

The 450 can auto ok.... although many of mine are pretty ugly

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03-10-2010 11:27 AM  8 years agoPost 28
ACKopter

rrApprentice

Florida

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Funky Trex, man that was awesome!
Gives me some ideas as I i've not been able to do anything more than "baby autos", just cant get the nerve to cut the throttle any higher than 10 ft. There is a field nearby with some real tall grass, I'm sure It will cusion the blow in event of a botched auto and I have my trusty SE V1 that was three years old when I got it a year ago so it wont be a huge loss even if it does'nt go well.

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03-10-2010 07:37 PM  8 years agoPost 29
Rotowerkz

rrApprentice

Windham, NH

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I've done dozens of autos with my nitro birds, but I was wondering - how do you keep track of battery consumption with electric helis when doing nothing but shooting autos? Any good rules of thumb out there? I plan to get a 600 electric, and won't be able to tell at a glance how much life is left in the Lipo.

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03-10-2010 09:38 PM  8 years agoPost 30
LaurenceGough

rrElite Veteran

UK

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You can't... Just add a few more autos onto the end of the timer.

I tend to use about half the lipo of what I normally do... I should do a lot more autos but I never like flying over the timer too much...

You can look at the mAh back into the pack when charging and adjust the time from there.

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03-18-2010 06:35 AM  8 years agoPost 31
jamienz

rrNovice

Auckland, New Zealand

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Still loving the autos! Put the throttle hold back to idle and had no issues - the 600 seems to just float forever!

One question, I want to set up my normal pitch curve so that there is enough negative pitch in it to auto (in case of a blown go plug or similar).

So one more question..

1- what pitch would you expect to get the best "glide" out of your auto? I was imagining somewhere between 0 and -2 degrees coming from a full size way of thinking but someone told me -6 degrees is best!

I want to set my normal lowest pitch at somewhere near that so that if something goes wrong, I just dump the collective and glide.

Cheers

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03-18-2010 06:59 AM  8 years agoPost 32
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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I would not recommend you using 450 to learn auto as it is difficult. Learning with a 600 is more forgiving. You will be surprised how much hang time it has just before the touch down.

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03-18-2010 07:15 AM  8 years agoPost 33
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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I would also not practice auto's with the 450. Is it possible? yes, but IMO, it is only possible to auto a 450, successfully, and repeatedly, with a LOT of experience with larger heli's.

There is no reserve on the 450. you come down like a rock, almost full negative pitch, and if you dont screw up, you will have just enough energy to bring it to a soft landing within a foot or two of the ground.

The 600 is a good machine to auto with. it is a relatively light machine, which reduces disk loading. autoing the 600 is a great tool to learn with.

Now, my personal favorite, is autoing my 90. rotormonkey has seen me doing it with my 90. it is on the edge of cheating. On a 90, not only can you screw up and recover, but even after you have screwed up, you can still take your time and hover around before landing. It just simply floats down almost on its own, leaving plenty of energy for messing around. I have brought my machine down to about 1 foot off the ground at one end of the field, and landed on the other end. Or even fly a small circuit before deciding to put it on the ground.

for blades, the longer and heavier the better with autos. Rotor Techs and Radix are the best blades for auto's IMO. I have used V blades, but they are bad at everything, auto's not excluded.

before entering the auto, point the heli into the wind, level out, get a small amount of forward speed, and center out the collective to unload the engine as well as the blades. If you dont do this, your likely to lose rpm when you hit hold. and it makes for a nice entry.

keep the heli level during its decent, dont dive or pull back, you will drop your rpm like crazy. when you get about 10ft off the ground, gently start flaring back and drop your pitch. this will translate your forward energy, and put it into the blades. Yo actually gain energy when you flair back and slow the heli down.

once your forward speed has dropped off, you can bring it in for a gentle landing.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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03-18-2010 07:19 AM  8 years agoPost 34
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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1- what pitch would you expect to get the best "glide" out of your auto? I was imagining somewhere between 0 and -2 degrees coming from a full size way of thinking but someone told me -6 degrees is best!
I personally keep the pitch settings for every single flight mode the same. Do not limit yourself in the negative pitch for auto's. sometimes you might need to bring it down a little quicker then you planned on, and not having that extra pitch will mess you up.

Short answer, -6 is best, depending on the heli.

but roughly -3 degrees will give a good auto. if it is a heavier heli, then you would want to bring it down a little quicker, maybe -6, and turn your speed into blade energy for the landing. my 50 is a bit heavier, which needs a bit more negative, while the 90 with low disk loading can float around all day with -1 degree.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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03-18-2010 01:05 PM  8 years agoPost 35
rotormonkey

rrKey Veteran

Ottawa, ON - Canada

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rotormonkey has seen me doing it with my 90. it is on the edge of cheating.
Yeah I've seen it. You told me it was all skill! Should've known better

If it can't hover, it ain't worth flying.

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03-18-2010 01:37 PM  8 years agoPost 36
Rotowerkz

rrApprentice

Windham, NH

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Are you thinking about setting the low end pitch curve when you are in throttle hold to something like -3 or -6 deg pitch? Something that would allow you to just rest the collective stick against its lower stop?

I did this originally on my nitro birds, but felt that I needed to be able to listen and adjust the negative pitch based on circumstances, and not be limited by some artificial lower limit. Now, I just hit TH, and fly it in based on what I see on the head. If I need more speed, I drop collective slightly.

The bottom line here is that it is a good idea to get proficient with autos on pitch curves that mimic your normal flight curve.

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03-18-2010 02:02 PM  8 years agoPost 37
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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I set my pitch to -4.5 for TH on all my 50 size nitros and my T500. They all auto like a charm.

Rudy

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03-18-2010 02:13 PM  8 years agoPost 38
Rotowerkz

rrApprentice

Windham, NH

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I guess what drove me to this conclusion is that in watching Finless Bob's auto videos with his 450, you see him actually adjusting the collective to the conditions, rather than blindly assuming that the lower end of the pitch curve is where you should be operating.

In the case of a 450, your really have to be on your toes.

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03-18-2010 02:22 PM  8 years agoPost 39
max232

rrVeteran

Pensacola

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I just started practicing autos, they sure are fun to do i have the full range of pitch curve set, and just use what i feel i need as stated by furious and meatbob. the blades im using now are NHP Razor 600mm. i'm no master of these autos yet.....but maybe....with more practice....who knows

Watch at YouTube

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03-18-2010 02:26 PM  8 years agoPost 40
rotormonkey

rrKey Veteran

Ottawa, ON - Canada

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I'm with FP and meatbob. You need to be able to fly the heli on the way down. Suppose you have a little more forward speed than you though you did, and you're going to overshoot your landing spot, you drop the collective a bit, and fly it down at a steeper angle.

If you're already resting your stick at the bottom of it's travel, you can't do that, and you end up way overshooting.

Just keep your full negative, and use what you need. Generally around -1 to -3 is good just to keep your HS up. You still need to fly the heli though.

If it can't hover, it ain't worth flying.

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