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Home✈️Aircraft🚁Helicoptere-BladeBlade SR › E-Flite Blade SR and DX7 setup
02-27-2010 12:52 AM  10 years ago
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copperclad

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NY

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E-Flite Blade SR and DX7 setup
Hi
i picked up an SR today at the local hobby shop , and like what they have done with it

it is basically the same head that the Blade CP uses , but they have improved the frame and skids by leaps and bounds , it comes with an AR-6100 and a nice little brushless main motor , the tail is a DD setup with a N-60 brushed motor , and then there is a hybrid dual ESC for both the brushless main and brushed tail motor

i haven't gotten a chance to fly yet , but i did set it up on my DX7 , i didn't see any point in taking the stock TX out of the box , i thought i would post the settings for the DX7

go into the DX7 setup mode

start with a new model memory

select 120 degree swash

( if you want to use the remote gain plug and be able to select
between HH and RATE )

set the input select to

AUX2............GEAR
AUX2............GYRO

go into the main menu

reverse switches

set aile to reverse

set rudder to reverse

all other reverse switches set to normal

throttle hold to

-14 percent

and select AUX2 as the throttle hold switch

and in the swash screen

AILE -50%
ELEV -50%
pitch -30%


( if you are using the remote gain plug )

in the gyro screen

RATE
0: = 75
1: = 25

these settings will have the swash working correctly , but are just a starting point

a couple of things i noticed , they have the gyro gain plug zip tied off and not plugged into the RX ( so gain is controlled with the pot located on the GYRO ) , and the heads setup to increase pitch as the swash lowers

i will update this list as i get more familiar with the machine , but the settings listed should help you get started

.
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02-27-2010 02:26 PM  10 years ago
copperclad

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NY

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Hi

this information only applies if you are switching over to a better TX like the DX6 or DX7

i have had a chance to go over the pitch setup a bit , and one thing i have found out is that on mine the head button was causing some binding at full negative pitch , if you pull the screw out and look at the head button , you will see that it is a small inverted cup that sits down over the end of the head shaft , what i did was to take a small grommet and place it inside the cup and reinstall the head button , this spaced the headbutton up a bit to allow for a touch more negative pitch , and this let me get the pitch range set to -12 ~ +12 , without any binding , and with zero degrees at midstick

now that the mechanical pitch range is set , i can use the pitch curves to adjust the pitch range as we normally would , i will post more info as i get the machine setup , regards

.
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02-27-2010 06:51 PM  10 years ago
9sec240

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Chicagoland

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The proper way to sort out the pitch on the SR is to move the swash to get zero pitch at mid stick. This is done by changing the length of the swash linkages. The lower mixing arm linkages are fixed length but you CAN get the pitch sorted out and the mixing arm fairly straight on the blade grip. On mine, I was able to get +10 -9 with 0 pitch at mid stick.

The 12 degrees you suggest is a LOT of pitch for this heli and will just bog the heck out of it.

I ended up with -68 AILE -68 ELEV -25 PITC for a +10-9 range with 7 degrees cyclic.
I have a FLEET of helicopters... seriously.
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02-27-2010 07:08 PM  10 years ago
copperclad

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NY

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Hi 9sec240

yes , i did use the linkages to center the pitch range , and i mentioned that once setup mechanically , the pitch range is set with curves , this is what has always worked for me , to set it up for the mechanical maximum allowed , and then tune it down with the pitch curves , i am sure your system works fine for you also

and i totally agree , that 12 degrees is probably more than the stock motor and gearing can carry , regards

an interesting note , i set my swash aileron and elevator to -40% as mentioned above , and found that it measured out to 4.5 degrees of cyclic throw each way , this did prove to be very soft response once i got a chance to do a test hop , so i am going to increase it till i find the setting that feels right to me , probably around 6 degrees , of coarse every one sets them up a little different

i was careful to mention that my posted settings were only a starting point , i really feel that there is no one correct setting as it applies to everyone

.
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02-27-2010 07:48 PM  10 years ago
9sec240

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Chicagoland

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I cant seem to find where you posted info on setting up the swash mechanically.

I set mine up for a reasonable pitch range and then change the swash mix to suit my flying. Going this route, there is no need for shimming the head button as you did. I found it odd that you would post up info on how to mod the head when it is not even needed.

I was also able to get cyclic pitch closer to begin with by measuring pitch first rather than guessing at a swash percentage. This way I have a reasonable expectation as to how it will fly.

The swash has wide set balls which limits cyclic movement. The swash mix needs to be quite high to get a decent amount of travel out of it.
I have a FLEET of helicopters... seriously.
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02-27-2010 08:19 PM  10 years ago
copperclad

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NY

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Hi 9sec240

yes , i see the swash is different from the CPs , and i agree , it takes more aile and elev percentage in the swash screen than usual , i was being conservative with my starting points , and do see that it will be up to around 60% for 6 degrees , to end up with what feels right to me

you are reading way too much into my raising the head button , loosened the screw popped in about 1mm of shim and screwed it back on , this bought me all of 0.5mm of clearance for the flybar cage at the top of its throw , i didn't mean to imply that it was a problem with the head or that you couldn't fly without it , just posting

it is a nice little heli , and a lot of fun to work on and fly , kindest regards

.
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02-27-2010 10:59 PM  10 years ago
copperclad

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NY

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Hi
i can see that this would be a good point to talk about the SR head and getting a handle on the mechanical setup

and again let me state here , that if you are flying the SR with the stock TX , this isn't anything you need to worry about , this is really only for someone interested in setting the SR up with a different TX and interested in setting an equal amount of positive and negative pitch

with the SR head , the limiting factor on overall pitch travel is not so much the swash plate , but the rotor head ( 009 ) on the center hub ( 010 ) , see diagram

here is a photo showing how the rotor head fits onto the center hub

i have labeled the photo to show the area in which the head can move up and down , if you think about the head moving up to the top , the area marked "A" will be closing and when the head moves all the way up to and hits the head button , that will be the limit of travel

and the same would be true as the head moves down , "B" would decrease until the gap closed and that would be the lower limit of travel

it is important to see that with the actual SR head this total throw is limited to about 5mm of travel , or from centered position it can move up or down , roughly 2.5mm

also if you look at the SR head , you will see what are called the "paddle control frame pushrods " these are the loop pushrods that go from the top of the swash to the " paddle control frame " , and directly link the swash to the rotor head (009) , it is important to note that these loop pushrods are not adjustable , the reason i mention this , is that the distance between the swash and head is fixed and cannot be adjusted , this leaves only two adjustment points , the linkage rods between the servo arms and swash , and the pitch setting in the swash screen

so in adjusting the head , what you run into , with the throttle hold on as you advance the throttle stick to the top , the swash plate will move down the mainshaft , and if you watch the area marked "B" in the photo the gap will either close completely and start to bind , or not quite close

and as you pull the throttle stick to the bottom and watch the erea "A" on the photo , it also will either close completely and bind , or not quite close

also if you center the throttle stick , you will want to see that the head (009) is centered

what worked for me , was first to center the throttle stick and make sure the servo arms were at 90 degrees to their linkage rods , another way to say this , with the heli set down on a table the servo arms should be dead level

at this position the head (009) should be at its center of travel

if it is not you can pop the linkage rods off between the servo arms and the swash and adjust them for length

if the head is hitting the end of its travel , this is adjusted with the pitch setting in the swash screen , to start it would be a safe bet to set this at "pitch -20" , and once you have the head centered , you should see that moving the throttle arm full throw will not bottom the head out to where it binds

if the push rods have been adjusted to the correct lengths , you should also see that when the head is as high as it goes , the gap at "A" is the same as "B" when the head is all the way down

it is important to get the head perfectly centered and then start increasing the pitch value , and as you increase it you will see these gaps get closer and closer

at some point you will see that if you increase the pitch setting any farther , one of these gaps will close completely and will start to bind

also as you close these gaps , it will be easier to see if the head is really centered , and you can move back and forth between fine adjustments to the links and adjusting the swash screens "pitch value"

finally the proof is in the pudding , if the head (009) is really centered , when you measure full pitch , you will see that full negative pitch will match full positive pitch

one more thing , is this an " absolutely , positively , gotta be done or you wont fly type of thing " , no absolutely not , but if you like the mechanics of these machines and like to mess with stuff then by all means have at it

.
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04-12-2010 03:31 AM  10 years ago
n7ki

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Tempe, AZ

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One other thing occurs at extreme travel on the center hub and that is that the flybar looses much of its travel. Also the screw that holds the cap on the center hub extends down into the flybar slot. I think I'm going to try to angle up the flybar slot on both sides to improve travel of the flybar at the top end.
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