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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Shakes violently
02-05-2010 02:32 AM  8 years agoPost 41
Spitfire1

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Perth Australia

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When you say that you have tried new blades, were they woodies ?

It could be a lot of things, maybe bent tail shaft, even belt too loose can sometimes do it, but until you try some F/G or C/F blades your never going to know for sure.

Im not saying its impossible to use wood blades, often you may be lucky and have no problems, but if you have a vibration issue like you do, I think at that point you have no choice but to go FG or CF.

Im not a gambleing person, but I would be willing to bet theres a pretty big chance maybe 90%, blades is your problem.

Its not makeing a loud woofing sound by any chance is it .?

EDIT. At very least Ive found a good set of well ballanced blades can make a big vibration almost managable. I have a Trex 600e thats had a vibration I have not been able to get rid of to this day, I found a perfectly balanced set of good quality CF blades has made it at least flyable, now the tail fin vibrates, but with un balanced blades it was unflyable, like a paintshaker.

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02-05-2010 02:45 AM  8 years agoPost 42
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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New blades ar CF no woofing noise.

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02-05-2010 03:19 AM  8 years agoPost 43
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Is this your first build ???
We got to be missing some thing / Is it your first build ??

Are your tail blade's installed like the photo of a NX ??

greyeagle

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02-05-2010 03:23 AM  8 years agoPost 44
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I'm with Jack on this, we must be missing something. Can you take some pictures of the head assembly and the tail assembly?

do you have any local flying fields you can go to and get someone to take a look at it? I think some hands on help could really go a long way here.

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02-05-2010 05:03 AM  8 years agoPost 45
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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This is my third build and first time anything like this has happened. My first build I could hover one handed. Here’s some pics

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02-05-2010 10:23 AM  8 years agoPost 46
basmntdweller

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis IN

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It may just be the camera angle, but one grip looks to be further away from the head than the other. I'm looking at the gaps between the head and grips. If this is the case, then that is the problem.

Matt


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!

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02-05-2010 02:15 PM  8 years agoPost 47
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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.0825 and .0920 only a .0095 diffrence.

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02-05-2010 03:25 PM  8 years agoPost 48
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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The head looks right to me, the spindle doesn't move back and forth any does it?

One thing I can think of which may be throwing you off is the gyro. If it's setup for too much gain it may be violently slapping the tail back and forth - is this a possibility?

A shake like that has to be something big wrong. If two sets of blades have been on there and you still get the same results then I'd start looking elsewhere.

Perhaps the tail drive system? Does that feel smooth when running it by hand? Did you say you actually checked the tail blades? Most tail blades I check are out of balance right out of the package, including my $30 CF tail blades.

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02-05-2010 03:50 PM  8 years agoPost 49
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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Thank you to all of you! I took it out side and hovers like a dream with woodies and did not need to touch the trim setting or tracking but that’s because of my swash leveler and digital pitch gage witch I would highly recommend you can set your blades within one tenth of a degree. Last night I rebuilt the entire head and balanced the blades which took several wraps of tape (not lead). I will take the tape off later to see what happens. I am going to put it in a scale fuselage later any suggestions on pitch and throttle curves.

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02-05-2010 03:54 PM  8 years agoPost 50
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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Don't take the tape off! If it balanced and run smooth leave it, the tape might pull the covering off the blades. Did you glue the roots onto those blades? very important.

For scale I'd probably look at about a -6 to +9 pitch curve and 6-7 deg cyclic. Add some weight to the flybar and run about 1750 headspeed - just spitballing here but that's probably about where I'd start.

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02-06-2010 03:07 AM  8 years agoPost 51
57NOMAD

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La Palma, Calif.

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You got my curiosity, what did you find that fixed the prob.?


If you're not crashing your not pushing hard enough!
MRC Team Hirobo

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02-06-2010 04:10 AM  8 years agoPost 52
GREYEAGLE

rrElite Veteran

Flat Land's

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Take a good look at the inboard of one of the grip's - Macro Photo may show it
The inboard edge of the right grip -- as oriented in the photo -- it appears that their is some fretting on the perimeter of the plastic.

Barely see the edge deformation on the circumference.

Could be dirt or spooge but it shows in the photo.

Wonder if a damper is pinched or a bearing is not seated.

greyeagle

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02-06-2010 04:55 AM  8 years agoPost 53
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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I don’t know what exactly what did it but I am glad it’s gone. Like said I completely rebuilt everything on the main shaft static balanced the blades and changed my throttle curve from 0 40 90 90 90 to 0 25 50 75 100. I put the throttle curve back to 0 40 90 90 90 and it did not like it! Around hover it started whooping so I put it back to default. What you see at the grip is where I had to trim the outer edge of the rubber dampener to stop it from rubbing the bearings.

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02-06-2010 05:09 AM  8 years agoPost 54
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Well ????
One must ask?? why is it proper on one side?? and not on the other ??.

Since your getting comfortable braking the head down her'ers what I'd do. Just my two cen'ts

Take it down again - sorry

re sort - all your thrust bearings -making sure you have the proper I.D. of the races oriented. If necessary set them over the top of your spindle bolts so you r sure the orientation is correct - so when their inserted your absolutely - positively the orientation is correct for re- insertion.

Clean the bore of the head block -if necessary Q- tip's - or what ever get it sterile. Look down inside for any fretting - from a bearing being pinched.

Dry off any spent lub from the dampers - take the one that's been " modified " flip it - put talc " baby powder on it " and re- insert it till it's fully seated and both are matched dead nut's.

I'm sure they didn't send two that were different lengths.

greyeagle

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02-06-2010 05:47 AM  8 years agoPost 55
eppler

rrApprentice

Baytown, TX

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They both were trimmed you just can't see it in the picture. The length was not changed just the outer edge where it bulged out when it was tightened and pressed on the bearing causing the blade grip not to move freely.

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02-06-2010 07:56 AM  8 years agoPost 56
imnxtc

rrVeteran

BC.Canada

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.....and changed my throttle curve from 0 40 90 90 90 to 0 25 50 75 100. I put the throttle curve back to 0 40 90 90 90 and it did not like it! Around hover it started whooping
May I ask why you would set an electric heli's throttle curve into a nitro heli??

I can surely see why it would want to behave erratically. At half stick you are probably at 0 pitch (a very low load is seen by the motor), yet you are telling the motor to give almost full power, so your head speed would have been going ballistic!!!

With an electric heli, setting such a curve will not do the same thing. The ESC will act more like a governor, with the 90 setting being like a rotor speed setting (voltage) rather then a power setting (wattage).

I am actually surprised you did not throw one of the wood blades with such a power setting!!!

Is this your first large nitro heli??

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02-06-2010 03:21 PM  8 years agoPost 57
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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I was unaware that was a electric setting. Yes my other heli was a nexus 30.

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02-16-2010 02:39 PM  8 years agoPost 58
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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HomeAircraftHelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Shakes violently
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