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HomeAircraftHelicopterAerobatic FAI F3C F3N Contest › Hirobo SSR Rotorhead
01-20-2010 08:51 PM  8 years agoPost 1
andrei

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Clovis,NM-USA

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Anybody out there familliar with this particular type of rotor?
Before i get aggressive and dismantle it, i thought i'd ask if anyone knows if there is any adjustment for increasing the friction as far as the rocking motion along the longitudinal blade axis is concerned.
I had a rough landing(auto'ed) the heli being tilted forward when it touched down and one of the main blades tips hit and ricoched off the pavement and in the process rocked the head backwards and the opposite blade sliced through the boom.
I wold like to try and increase the ammount of friction to diminish the see saw like motion of the head in order to hopefully avoid such thing from happening again.

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01-22-2010 01:40 AM  8 years agoPost 2
mpafonseca

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Savannah, GA - USA

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This is a SSR (first edition) from the original SST-Eagles back from 1988/1989. The way to get it more rigid is to change the dampers with harder ones. As far as I remembem the design is very similar to the recent Hirobo heads so probably the dampers from the newer versions or some aftermarket ones (for hirobo helis) will fit. You will have to do a trial on that.

If you had a crash like you described I suggest you to replace the spindles to avoid getting vibrations on the heli. It will not be easy to find it but it is possible. If you need I can send a contact that will have a great chance finding parts for it.

Are you flying an original Eagle?

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01-22-2010 04:53 PM  8 years agoPost 3
andrei

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Clovis,NM-USA

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Thank you for the reply, mpafonseca.
I am gong to mess with it to see what i can do.
It is an SSR IV second edition i think.A WC winner for that matter.
I have another earlier version rotor that is very rigid compared to this one.I may have to try that one see how it fares.
I'm not shure how the dampeneres work as far as the side to side motion is concerned but i wouldn't want to use very hard dampers, this heli is a FPV machine and one of the things i liked about this rotor was it's soft damping.

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01-23-2010 12:36 PM  8 years agoPost 4
mpafonseca

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Savannah, GA - USA

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Ok, the SSR heads are usually softer than usual because they are ment to be F3C style and at that time the high loading maneuvers were not so demanding. I have two of them in my Eagles that were build exactly like the 1989 Champ machine (Yukihiro Dobashi was the pilot and he still flies in the F3C WC), so I really know the "pedigree" of them...

Have a good flying...

Marco

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01-23-2010 08:36 PM  8 years agoPost 5
andrei

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Clovis,NM-USA

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There are several editions of the SSR rotorhead as you are probably well aware of.
I for one know of the IV/V/VI/VII versions, and none as early as 1989.
As far as i know it was Manabu Hashimoto who used the type of rotor i have, on a SST Eagle 2 EX wich earned him his first WC title in Turkey 1997.
The first photo is supposed to be a similar rotor as the one he had used.
The second is my spare SSR rotor wich to me looks just like his.
The third is what is instaled right now on my heli and by the look of it i would say it is a revised version of the same SSR IV.
I presume Hirobo was inspired in adding the suffix WC to this machine by Hashimoto's win the previous year.
http://www.modelrectifier.com/catalog/item48.html

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01-24-2010 01:27 AM  8 years agoPost 6
mpafonseca

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Savannah, GA - USA

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I can be wrong, but for me it looks like the 1st picture is an SSR-IV (this I'm not 100% shure, in a certain version Hirobo changed the spindle from having 2 side plates bolted to a single piece machined one and I don't remember wich version was that), the second one is the SSR-II and the 3rd is a SSR-I. I have both of them and I really bought it in 1989/1990. My first SST-Eagle was bought in Japan and it came with the SSR-I that really looks like the one you have in your heli (3rd pic) the second Eagle was bought in US in 1990 and was a sort of WC version that came with some "upgrades" like the EX tail gear box, a newly designed fuel tank and the SSR-II head that Yukihiro Dobashi used in 1989 WC (Eagle with a pink/blue/white Black Shark body). If you look close the real difference between them were the side plates that hold the spindles together and the different shapes changed the position of the rotor flapping hinge point the the distance from this point to the damper, changing the stability and damping a little bit. As long as I remember the SSR-I was more stable than the SSR-II but a little less "precise" for the contest flying.
But again, I can be wrong. I'm only saying that based on my memory and the pictures you sent.

Here is a picture of my 1990 SSR-II head...

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01-24-2010 04:49 AM  8 years agoPost 7
andrei

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Clovis,NM-USA

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The reason i went for this older ones is the black anodizing.
If i would've found a black one in a newer version i would've purchased one.
I dont like the blocky draggy flat sides bolted together.
They look like the rivets on a cca 1900 submarine.
The SSR V or VII would've been much more to my liking but they only come in blue and i really dont like a rainbow of colours on heli.
I found this picture on someones gallery wich is probably a more recent version, maby even a prototype SSR V, since it seems Hirobo switched to blue anodidzing around that time.(year 2000 or so)

PS.It is because it is a stable and mild rotor why i like it and would like to keep the damping soft, on my V1.
No Dobashi here, just a slow flyer.

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01-24-2010 01:13 PM  8 years agoPost 8
mpafonseca

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Savannah, GA - USA

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The head in the pictures is even older than the ones we have. It is called DDF head that means Dual Damping Flaping. They have the flaping movement from the rotor hub and the spindles are independently hinged too. As I remember this heads equiped the previous Eagles, Latest Falcons and the GMP Stork (US ReBranded Hirobo). That is why the head is black. I believe that this head is probably from a Stork (1987 aprox.).

You can have a newer head and send it to be anidized again in black. It will not be cheap but will be one of a kind!!

Marco

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01-24-2010 11:17 PM  8 years agoPost 9
andrei

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Clovis,NM-USA

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Thanks for the tip on anodizing.I had no idea it is possible.
I paid 500$ for my rotor so what's another five or more for a newer version plus the anodizing another who knows how much.
Peanuts.
All i need is to hit the lottery first.

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