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HomeRC & PowerAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › YS50 heli engine
01-20-2010 01:49 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Heli Greenhorn

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salix pa usa.

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I recently bought a used YS50 engine that needs front and rear bearings.
Being new to heli engines, how do I get the connecting rod off of the crank shaft? It looks to me I need to pull the cylindar sleeve and slide the piston and connecting rod one way or another.

Could someone advise me on how to change the bearings?

Thank you

Heligreenhorn

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01-20-2010 01:54 AM  8 years agoPost 2
george0079

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USA

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Yes. you need to pull the sleeve before you can remove the piston and con-rod.

You'll probably need to put in the oven, at about 300 degrees, for about 10 minutes, in order to get the liner to come out.

Hell... I can fix that.
Uh oh..
Nope.
It's ***ked!!!
RE-KIT!!!!!

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01-20-2010 08:33 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Bob Wales (RIP)

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Lebanon CT

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You may also want to look into buying a brand new one as they can be had at my hobby shop for $169 and to get a piston and sleeve to fix this will cost you a minimum of $125.

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01-20-2010 06:05 PM  8 years agoPost 4
Smok

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Antwerp, Belgium

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Replacing the bearings is a bit tricky, but not that difficult,
I did it myself for my airplane Saitos, now I found this,
just by googling. That's part 1 :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuzEco3EDUM

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01-20-2010 06:12 PM  8 years agoPost 5
Smok

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Antwerp, Belgium

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01-20-2010 06:16 PM  8 years agoPost 6
Smok

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Antwerp, Belgium

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One more suggestion - use a sealed front bearing, not a shielded one.
The latter would cause oil coming out via the front bearing.

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01-21-2010 08:33 PM  8 years agoPost 7
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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If you have not purchased yet, RC-bearings.com has great prices on bearings and Paul knows RC well, use stainless steel on the rear bearing.
I have used a heat gun in place of the oven to heat up the case to pull the sleeve. When I changed the bearing on my YS, the rear bearing did not want to come out easily. I removed the front bearing, used red loc-tite and put the crank back in. After a few hours I heated up the case with a heat gun and tapped the crank out with the rear bearing attached.

Good luck and take your time, getting the sleeve out is the hardest part.

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01-22-2010 08:47 AM  8 years agoPost 8
alfred

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Australia, New South Wales, Mid North Coast

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One more suggestion - use a sealed front bearing, not a shielded one.
The latter would cause oil coming out via the front bearing.
No it doesn't.
If yours does then you have a worn crankshaft or worn case (bin job).
Also sealed bearings cause higher drag.
Most of today's engines have a slot in the front case which due to the venturi effect helps pulling the fuel/oil away from the front bearing.

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01-22-2010 11:51 AM  8 years agoPost 9
Smok

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Antwerp, Belgium

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@alfred

You might or might not be right for YS-50, I must say I do not know,
as I did not have any need to change bearings in my YS motors yet,
but for my airplane and car engines I am using sealed front bearings,
as shielded ones cause some (minor) oil leak ( or rather sweating )
- not a lot but still...

Re: Bearing sealing drag - this seems negligible, compared
to the piston-sleeve drag and to the power loss for the piston
start-stop movements, imho...

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01-22-2010 12:02 PM  8 years agoPost 10
Smok

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Antwerp, Belgium

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...indeed the YS50 front bearing looks like a shielded one,
but it's not clear from the pictures which I found online
if it might also have any sealing beneath the metal shield,
anyway I am not planning to disassemble mine to check myself

I guess the easiest way to go would be to just use
genuine YS parts, then you would be getting the same thing
as the one used originally in the motor, imho..

Btw. the part list is included in the manual:

http://www.yspower.co.jp/en/data/pdf/50st.pdf

The prices for bearings which I found online
probably won't break a bank, likely the postage
might make more price difference than the bearing
price itself...

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01-22-2010 02:28 PM  8 years agoPost 11
alfred

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Australia, New South Wales, Mid North Coast

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Same here.
I haven't pulled mine apart yet, but do have a set of stainless steel ones sitting here for it.
The front bearing is the shielded type.
Just checked my YS80 and instead of the slot, it's got a tiny hole drilled from the front where the front bearing case butts against to the bottom of the regulator...different to the slotted ones I have seen in other engines.
I was able to check the YS80 as it is pulled apart at the moment getting a re-build.
In regards to sweating through the front.
Not sure that this might be an issue with heli engines. The heli engine is sitting vertical in the frame and as such no oil can pool at the bottom of the front bearing.

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