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HomeAircraftHelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Novarossi Input Here
04-10-2010 04:00 PM  8 years agoPost 81
tommyvuitton

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Joburg, South Africa

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Ok, finally got to idle but had to change out the carb for my OS50 hyper carb. Only problem is that as soon as i up the throttle it cuts out. Anyone have this issue with the OS50 hyper carb on the novarossi?

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04-11-2010 04:05 AM  8 years agoPost 82
Git

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Brunei

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tommy,

try leaning out ur idle screw.. i used to have mine on the os50 carb at 45 deg leaner than stock.

but u will notice that ur mid will starve when tuning for max top end power.. so u cant really lean ur high needle too much.

that's one of the reason i changed to 3 needle carb. i would really recommend u to try it.

Alees Rush 750

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04-11-2010 04:34 PM  8 years agoPost 83
Gernejr

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Miami, Fl

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You need to be careful when using OS60L carb in stock form. The OS carb doesn't go into the Nova motor as deep so it does seal on the inside o-ring. The oring on the OS carb will seal . I recommend using a thin layer of red hi-temp RTV sealer on the base of the motor where the o-ring will seal. Also when install 60L push hard then tighten the bolt. Will can get a air leak there cause the idle problems...and lean running on top end...
I milled 1mm off the OS60L carb so it when deeper into the Nova57 motor sealing on the inside oring. The OS60B and OS60M have a 1mm longer base on them alright..let them seal on th einside oring..

I'm not help on running 15% nitro but changing shims and changing heat range on plugs it you find the right comb...
Lower nitro % lower compression maybe .06 shims
play with plugs
note* the nova glow plug brass shim is thicker than OS8 shim.

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04-12-2010 04:46 PM  8 years agoPost 84
Git

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Brunei

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new bearing arrived today.. it's fitted and my fbl600 is ready for smackdown tomoro..

one question about the rex. is it normal for dyke rings to have little or no compression if u turn the crankshaft slowly? i know once it is running, the compression will definitely expand the ring but im just wondering how yours feel at the bench (i.e cold engine). can you twist your starter coupling easily with your fingers?

Alees Rush 750

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04-12-2010 08:23 PM  8 years agoPost 85
Gernejr

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Miami, Fl

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Git YES it's designed that way. Less drag on the down stroke also doesn't relay on piston ring tension for compression. Rings has wider sealing edge too. Sure was easy installing the piston in liner wasn't it?
Git are you using the 3G FBL system? Let me know how yours works out? I never did find the sweet spot for foam on the gyro and try many with /without plates too but in the end i think i had a defective unit..

I do think the Mavrikk G5 wide chord blades are better blades for FBL.They are very close to CY600SB but CG is 1.5" more from the bolt hole and 5 grams (131g) heavier per blade..

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04-12-2010 10:13 PM  8 years agoPost 86
Git

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Brunei

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gernejr,

yeah, installing the piston into the liner was too easy

im not using the 3g fbl. i'm using skookum and spartan. i have set up a 3g for my fren 700LE. had to use both gain below 40%. i will wait until align provide the full programming capability for the 3g, then i will use it. becoz what i can see and feel, the 3g makes the heli bounce too much. right now im in the process of converting my 700LE to fbl using skookum as well.

ive used mavrik g5 before but not on fbl heli. they are quite heavy for my taste. too slow on the pitch pumping and bog at stickbanging. on my 600fbl i use edge 603 fbl.

back to the nova. im using 61b carb (from os91hz). where's your mid needle at? mine is at around 2 turns plus minus a few clicks. if i lean it leaner than 1.75t, my engine gets angry. just want to compare with other ppl using the same carb on the rex57 that's all. on all my other 3 needle carb equipped os engines, in general, the mid is usually around 1.5t

Alees Rush 750

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04-13-2010 02:43 PM  8 years agoPost 87
Git

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Brunei

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post flight comments after installing new rear bearing
the rattling was still there if not getting worse than before. more pronounced with higher throttle input.

the motor produced no torque at all either with rich or lean settings at full climb and bogged ridiculously.

idling seemed very rich and the motor struggled to get to gov speed but once up to speed, hovered steadily (@ 1850, 2000 and 2150rpm)

motor heated up quite fast and back plate almost untouchable after hovering.

ive come to the conclusion that i need a new liner since my piston and ring are only a few flights old. i know it's a dyke ring and all, but the way it slides way too easily in the liner is not good to me.

im going to change the front bearing while im at it.

comments pls. luca?

Alees Rush 750

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04-13-2010 04:46 PM  8 years agoPost 88
ININVERNO

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San Leandro - Ca - USA / Mandello del Lario - IT

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Dear
How many gallon have your 57?
My advise if you alrerady change the rear bearing is change the coupling.
Than with this 2 change your engine will new.
The novarossi linear don't have any usure, wath normally were is the cilinder.
This is my personal advise to get back withthe originally best performance.

Luca Invernizzi - ininverno@yahoo.com

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04-13-2010 08:10 PM  8 years agoPost 89
Git

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Brunei

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luca, about 20 gallons.

which coupling are you referring to?

what do mean by this pls..
The novarossi linear don't have any usure, wath normally were is the cilinder.
anyhow, i ordered the liner and front bearing already and shud arrive in 3 days.

i just hope the conrod and piston pin are ok.. otherwise, to get those as well, den i will spend rebuilding roughly the price of a new 57

Alees Rush 750

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04-13-2010 10:08 PM  8 years agoPost 90
stuartmp74

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Gold Coast, Australia

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which coupling are you referring to?
I think you will find that Luca is referring to the Piston & Liner.

If I was you I would replace both piston & liner at once. This will ensure your engine will once again produce max power.

chances are if your liner is shot so is your piston. have a close look at it to see if it has any vertical running scratches / grooves in it. Very small once are ok.

Probably the most important thing is the dyke ring check to see that it still has a series of horizontal grooves running around the perimeter. If you have gotten your enging to hot there could be places on the outer surface of the dyke ring where the ring is smooth.(No horizontal grooves) This is not good. the ring will not seat into the linear as well, causing less compression & less power.

Good luck with your rebuild.
Don't forget to follow the break-in procedure once you have completed your rebuild.

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04-14-2010 12:42 AM  8 years agoPost 91
Gernejr

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Miami, Fl

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Git When do you heard the rattling? I had a rattled at idle but when away when rev up but came back when lower again. Was the rear bearing ... Have you changed backing plate and carb o-rings? try using a very thin layer of red RTV silcone gasket on the motor where the carb oring seals. The 60B doesn't sit deep enough in the motor to seal on inside o-ring. it touch but not fully, changing all 3 o-rings fixed my problem.. i still used RTV on both at carb and backing plate .. use finger dibbing it with finger so you keep taking rtv off very thin layer is all you need.
Has your pipe been in crash maybe baffle is loose?

GIT
back to the nova. im using 61b carb (from os91hz). where's your mid needle at? mine is at around 2 turns plus minus a few clicks. if i lean it leaner than 1.75t, my engine gets angry. just want to compare with other ppl using the same carb on the rex57 that's all. on all my other 3 needle carb equipped os engines, in general, the mid is usually around 1.5t
I only run the 60B for about 8 flights starting from breakin , then switched to Mod 60L . Had to hunt down old theard for my setting but think i needed to open MID to Tune in the high right but never give it fair shake.. on my 60L high is 1turn 5 clicks

Grenejr
i set both mid and high to 1.5 turns out. hit the switchglo she fired right up with only 2 clicks down on the trim to a nice idle. i only had time to get 2 tanks though her but mid is at 1.25 now, idle is very smooth. Hoping to give her broke in before the weekend to see how she going to run ...
doooh!
I have the 60k carb on my 57 and although heavier than the original carb i think it yields more power as its venturi is 10mm.Plus you can tune it in easier with the three needles.Mines in my trex 600 with the outrage 56 pipe at 2150 on the head.The needle settings are 2 turns on the mid and just over 1 turn on the main needle.Running model technics 30% copter mix, .5 shim on the head and two brass washer on the os no8 plug to lower the compression a smidge more.With this setup it pulls 14 degrees of pitch all day long with no overheating . hope this helps

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04-14-2010 07:25 AM  8 years agoPost 92
ININVERNO

rrApprentice

San Leandro - Ca - USA / Mandello del Lario - IT

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About engine service I already give my personal advise.
The Novarossi ring IF it is damaged means that other parts are damaged for sure.
If your engine was ok and after many fly will come don't work well and overheating the better is make the rear bearing and coupling service,( cylinder / piston with ring assembly).
Front bearing never changed one in my life.
Changing rear bearing, coupling (cylinder/piston) your engine come back new if don’t get hard crash issue.

Sometime after hard crash engine can be seriously damaged, this is the worst service condition because apparently engine don’t show nothing, but don’t work well, the crankcase need be changed.

The con-rod in my experience I never changed, I change the engine every year and normally I change 2 bearing and one coupling for each engine every year, and I fly a lot, every days is 2 gallon, means with 3 engines I take approx 500 gallon a year.

My advise also look about special offer some time is cheap to buy a new engine that service it.

I am user me too and I know this situation cost.

Luca Invernizzi - ininverno@yahoo.com

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04-14-2010 04:56 PM  8 years agoPost 93
Git

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Brunei

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ok thanks luca..

i will see how the fit is once my liner arrive. i think my piston and ring is still ok.. only a few flights old. i do have a new spare ring. if it's not tight, i will change to new ring.

Alees Rush 750

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04-14-2010 11:35 PM  8 years agoPost 94
MaSt0RaS

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Greece

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see how is my engine After 100tanks...

Watch at YouTube

What do you think....

I took off the motor in order to add one shim because i am going from 20% to 30%

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04-15-2010 06:35 AM  8 years agoPost 95
bigwolf1

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USA

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what fuel and what plug were you running for the 100 tanks. why are you going to 30%

MAH blade Rep
Trex700LE
Magnum fuels

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04-15-2010 09:53 AM  8 years agoPost 96
MaSt0RaS

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Greece

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ι was running optifuel 20% with enya 4....
I am going to 30% because my 20% have finished and i found the 30% on the same price as 20%

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04-15-2010 01:56 PM  8 years agoPost 97
bigwolf1

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USA

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use the same plug. I found the colder plugs do work best with the nova.

MAH blade Rep
Trex700LE
Magnum fuels

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04-16-2010 02:17 AM  8 years agoPost 98
ADHD

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Jacksonville, FL

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Novajunk
So here's the deal. I purchased a Novarossi .57 for my Velocity and installed it. Everything was going good while breaking it in over four tanks of fuel. I was running 30% fuel on a .5 shims with the stock plug and and OS8. Running the low four turns in and the high two turns out my piston burned up and my sleeve is scarred now from the piston.

Now I'm so pissed off with this engine I can't see straight. Its going to cost me another $115 bucks to get it fixed, and who's to say that its not going to happen again? I knew I should have stayed with my trusty faithful OS.

Anyone have this happen yet?

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04-16-2010 04:06 AM  8 years agoPost 99
stuartmp74

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Gold Coast, Australia

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Hi ADHD,

Sorry to here about your engine problems.

I must say that I find it very hard to believe that it could be possible to cook this engine with those carburettor settings.

Can I ask you a few questions.
Do you mix your own fuel?

What head speed were you running during the run-in period?

Did you ensure the carburettor was seated correctly in the Engines crank case? (if not this could cause it to run very lean)

Did you read and followed the tuning Guide from the LYNX web site?
http://www.lynxheli.com/index.php?o...=startdown&id=4

and check that your throttle body is in the correct position before you adjust the Idle mixture?

Did you measure the head & backing plate temperatures during break-in to confirm that the engine was running within the temperature ranges specified in the manual?

Please post some pictures if you have time.

Please answer my above question and hopefully there is an explanation as to why this occurred.

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04-16-2010 06:35 AM  8 years agoPost 100
MaSt0RaS

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Greece

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the low needle was too close i think it must be at 3.5 from fully open and not at 4 turns ....
But i dont think this think samaged so much your engine something else happened..!

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