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HomeAircraftHelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › Need help with my Gy520
01-12-2010 09:00 PM  8 years agoPost 1
Tommy8275

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Mount Juliet, TN

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What cause my my Gy520 drift to my left? I took off my T-rex500 today it startet to drift to the left I tried to short the linkage it still to the same thing. when I land me heli I noted the servo arm on my rudder drift or moved slowly backward toward the tail without moving my rudder. Anyone know what cause this? Im using Futaba S9650 for tail servo Servo arm I use the second hole from the center. Also I tried both rate/heading lock mode it does the samething.

Tommy K

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01-12-2010 09:58 PM  8 years agoPost 2
kcordell

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O Fallon, MO

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Before ever setting up HH in a gyro, the TR must operate perfectly! With the gyro in normal mode, trim the tail rotor mechanically until it is perfect! Only then will it work flawlessly in HH. Too many times when I have worked on models at the field, the tail is no where close to being trimmed in normal. This is the key. With this ALL linkages with the tail must be free and easy. If the servo has to strain the slightest bit, the tail will not hold properly or consistently.

Team Futaba, Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, Team Castle Creations, YS Engines, VelTye

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01-14-2010 03:58 AM  8 years agoPost 3
helidevil

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Brunswick, ME

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actually the 520 gets a better, more solid hold when the rate mode is off a little but the piro rate is what it sacrafices. but once you do get it set up, do what the manual sais and flip from (start) normal, to hh, to normal then to hh finally. it should go hh, n, hh. quickly. that resets the center position. make sure the gyro starts out in normal first then to the mode flip stuf.

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01-15-2010 04:01 AM  8 years agoPost 4
tjrhodes01

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walkerton IN. US

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if you look closely at the inst unless you are planning on flying in normal mode theirs no need to set it up for it and who flys in normal mode longer than trying to just get a mechanical set up per inst of older tec gyros then we put it in hh and fly away the only tweeking ive found needed is the stop settings per machine to get the optimum soft but firm no bounce stop dir say to just set tail to 0 pitch set the travel to no bind both dir and then your setting i have no normal mode settings whatsoever and it flies better than any gyro i've tried thus far i have even used the oldschool setup just to compare and it made no difference once the 520 hh is initiated their is absolutely no center the 4 to 5 degree offset for normal mode settings dont transfer to hh mode if you follow the inst about 0 pitch it eliminates a bunch of work which is what this thing was desingned for ,oh and you can with the comp programming software you can make it have the feel of all the gyros available, starting stopping pirro cosistancy holding hope this helps you out just trust the inst

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01-15-2010 04:10 AM  8 years agoPost 5
tjrhodes01

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walkerton IN. US

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oh yeh make sur your not dealing with any vibes or static issues any gyro is very succeptable to vibes and i have heard off issues of stattic with 500 you can find some threads on it and if i remember correctly when you have a nm and hh mode set up in the 520 you must initilize in hh first for it to lock in properly it says something about that in the instruction

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01-15-2010 05:50 AM  8 years agoPost 6
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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The instructions do indeed say that, BUT................

they were originally conceived prior to a tremendous amount of flying of the gyro in real world installations after we first started flying the preproduction prototypes. During that time, some of Futaba's top pilots in the world recognized some issues with piro consistency and hold. After a period of study and work with not only the Futaba JP factory but also Team Futaba members in the US and abroad, the set up guidelines for the gyro were revised to strongly recommend and support mechanically trimming the tail first in normal mode prior to switch into AVCS. These simple steps can DRAMTICALLY improve the performance of this superb gyro. Flying the gyro without first doing this first forces the gyro to utilize a portion of its holding abilty and servo rotation to suppress any trim error present in the model. Depending on which direction the trim error falls, the offset of the servo arm relative to 90 degrees can substantially upset the gyro's abilty to deliver a consistent piro rate. In the most severe cases, such trim errors can also produce drifting.

Here are Team Futaba's Bobby Watts comments on this matter:
" POSSIBLY THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP FOR THIS GYRO!!!!!

Tracking your tail in non- heading hold mode:

In order to get the most performance out of the GY520, you MUST track your tail in non- heading hold, meaning that in an idle up head speed, with a decent amount of gain in NON HEADING HOLD MODE, your tail must not rotate. If the tail begins to slowly pirouette in a hover, adjust the tail rotor pushrod linkage to achieve a neutral point.

Once this has been done, flip back into Heading Hold mode and go fly!! This made a night and day difference in the performance of my gyro.
Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-15-2010 02:02 PM  8 years agoPost 7
kcordell

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O Fallon, MO

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Well said Ben. As you and I both know, when we go to events and are asked to look at claimed 'gyro issues', once we go back and set up the tail properly in normal mode, most of the perceived gyro problems go away. This goes back as far as Don Chapman (and further), the model MUST BE SET UP MECHANICALLY PERFECT, and ALL LINKAGES (INCLUDING SWASHPLATE RODS) MUST BE 'KISSY FREE' before you start worrying about other issues.

Team Futaba, Team Synergy/Rail, Team Scorpion, Team Castle Creations, YS Engines, VelTye

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01-15-2010 10:47 PM  8 years agoPost 8
tjrhodes01

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walkerton IN. US

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i cant seem to find no revision on their website instructions still read the same i have also resetup my 550 again setting it up for nm also and mechanichaly trimmed and as before not a bit diffrent i actually had to do more playing around with atv to get a cosistant pirro rate from left to right but since bobby watts says so i guess thats gospel but regardless of popular oppinion your mechanical setup will not cause the servo to be hunting when your machine is still setting static the linkage could be all togther removed and it wouldent cause the servo to hunt when static as he said it was doing wich is usually initiating problem and programming

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01-15-2010 11:44 PM  8 years agoPost 9
Flyinrazrback

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Fort Smith, AR

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So with this gyro you set the gain with the ATV in the radio, and anything below 50 is Normal mode, and above 50 is HH. What is a good number above 50 to start out at? About to set mine up for the first time.

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01-16-2010 04:10 AM  8 years agoPost 10
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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The reason I made a particular point of clarifying this information is because you yourself spent a full paragraph advising to trim the tail in a manner that has been proven to be suboptimal. I do not fault Hobbico for what the manual says, because the information at the time of the printing was believed to be ideal. Things change.

Bobby's word may not be gospel, but the gentleman who advised Bobby, myself and quite few others about the most effective setup received the suggestions from Futaba JP........from the man who designed the gyro. I would wager HIS word IS gospel.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-16-2010 04:25 AM  8 years agoPost 11
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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'back,

Plug the gain lead into an unused switched channel. One side of that channel's ATV from minimum to 100% will be HH, and the other side will be normal and also range from minimum to 100%. Use the LED to tell you which direction of the switch is HH and which is normal. If you don't like the switch position, use the servo reverse to change it.

For the HH side of the channel, 45% is a sensible starting point. A bit more is fine for normal "side". The actual gain setting that is ideal for your model is NOT what is written be anyone in any set up guide. Rather, it's a function of YOUR model, YOUR set up, YOUR t/r servo, and YOUR flying style. The only constant across all set ups is the desire to avoid t/r servo temps any more than just warm to the touch. Some models, flying styles, and set ups will produce excessive heat in some servos at comparatively low gain settings, while my electric contest model with BLS251 will allow 87% gain and barely be warm after a long hovering flight. I can offer further guidlines if you tell me how the model is working in flight, how warm the servo is getting at the starting gain setting, and what your expectations are of the system.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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01-16-2010 11:18 AM  8 years agoPost 12
darksidedave

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niles,MI

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Also check if the rudder trim is anything other than zero in any flight mode...

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01-18-2010 04:23 AM  8 years agoPost 13
jketron

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Del Mar, CA

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I'm in the process of setting up my Trex 500 for the first time.

I have a GY520 and BLS251. I'm using a R6106HFC in normal mode and a 10 CHG.

Im working on the initial setup and working on where to set up the gain for the first flight. I haven't flown heli's in about 5 years and I recall that I always used the heading lock mode and it seemed to cover up any building slop or minor errors that I may have introduced in building.

I get the impression from these postings that I should first try and fly and trim out the normal (non-lock) mode first.

In my first setup so far (haven't flown yet only a run-up on the ground) I'm verifying the head setup, servo direction functions.

I'm confused with the gain setups and as well as the initial setup of the tail.

What I have done is follow the instructions for the heli to a T. I have set the gyro in mode 3 to center the servo and I set the servo bracket placement on the tail boom to have the tail blades as visibly center as I could eye it with servo arm in the center position. When I do test the full throws of the tail the pitch slider doesn't contact either end of the throw. Of course prior to this I change the setting to use the BLS251 servo in the gyro.

During the initial run on the ground I had the tail rudder direct reversed. I believe that I have the gyro control in the right direction. If there is some nice "rule of thumb" please let me know.

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01-20-2010 03:23 AM  8 years agoPost 14
FlytilyaDrop

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Playboy mansion

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What I have noticed missing in the post above is once you find neutral position of the heli in hover in Normal Mode you again have to reset your travel setting in the gyro.

If you don't you will bind at servo, one comment above said to trim out in normal mode then flip switch and go fly in HH.
WRONG

Set trim in Normal mode then reset travel adjustment in servo, then go fly.

If this set up is done right and you still have drifting, then gyro location, foam thickness pads adjusted, etc.

I will admit this gyro as good as it is I did have less issues than I did with my 401 but I know this 520 will hold better.

This hobby sucks, when your not flying.

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