RunRyder RC
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| RunRyder | Scorpion Power |
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| T-Rex-Flyer
rrElite Veteran Panama City, Fl |
Does anyone have a diagram to make a home built glow igniter ?  |
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| Avropilot
rrVeteran Murfreesboro, Tennessee |
 Here is your remote switch. Parts List:
All resistors 1/4w/5% tolerance, unless otherwise posted. R1 = 47K IC1 = MC14013B R2 = 1K Q1 = BUZ11, IRFZ42, NTE2395, or ECG2395 R3 = 10K S1 = on/off switch (optional) P1 = 100K Servo lead C1 = 22nFParts only KIT available, Click here: R/C SwitchDescription: The circuit, as described above, is a so-called "Radio Controlled Electronic Switch". It can be used to switch on/off anything electrical, whatever it is. Here are a couple of examples: navigation lights, landing gear, sound systems, glowplug driver, bomb release, parachute, search lights, gyros, and so on. Fig. A shows the regular setup for common accesories such as motors, glowplugs, bomb-doors, relays, etc. If you like to hook it up to a camera, see Fig. B. Note that for the Camera Shutter version the value for R1 and R2 is different (100K). Please note that this system will not work with PCM.Hart of the circuit is a CMOS Dual 'D' Flip-Flop MC14013B. The input Flip-Flop is designed as a monostable pulse generator by means of R1, P1 and C1 connected between 'Q' and the RESET input, which produces a preset pulse-length set by the adjustable potmeter and starts at the rising edge of the input pulse. When this monostable times out it's inverted 'Q' signal goes high and clocks the output stage of the Flip-Flop, which is used as a normal type 'D', to sample the input pulse. If the duration of the input pulse is longer than the preset monostable pulse, then a logic high level will be clocked to the output of the 'D' type. A shorter input pulse will cause a logic low to be clocked to the output. In short, both halves of the IC perform two different logic funtions.The output drives the output device which in this circuit is the IRFZ42 TMOS FET. It needs only 2-volt on it's gate to fully turn-on and has an rDS-ON resistance of only 0.028 ohm. To invert the operation of the r/c switch, you can connect R2 either to pin 12 or 13 of the MC14013B. This circuit is easy in design and to built and can easily be done using vector board, vero-board, or whatever. My unit measures 5/8" by 1-1/4" but I know I can do a lot smaller by choosing smd components, probably 3/8" x 1/2". You can use a case or heat-shrink; I used the latter. This unit is NOT ment as a motor-switch for electric flight. For that purpose check out the "R/C Electric Motor Switch".Adjusting the switch: To test the unit hookup a light and a battery, making sure the + of the battery goes to the Drain of Q1. Adjust the potmeter P1 to somewhere in the middle and set the transmitter function of your choice (say the throttle) to the point where you wish to switch the unit. Now adjust the potmeter P1 to the point the light comes on. If it does, your unit functions properly and you can play with whatever other setup you have in mind. If you intend to use this unit as a on-board glowdriver, make sure to use havy wiring between glowplug, battery and r/s switch. A 'Y'-lead to the throttle servo is required. If you use this unit to switch relays or a small dc-motor, then a 'spark eliminator' diode (1N4001) is required. Cathode of the diode goes to the '+' side of the battery. (See diagram).Surface Mount Version At the left you see the Surface Mount version (SMT), measuring 15mm x 17mm!Final Word: The IRFZ42 is a TMOS Power FET. They can be pricy ($12 Can). Other substitutes like the IRFZ44 will work too. Watch for static discharge with this one! IC1, the MC14013B, is a CMOS SSI type Dual Flip-Flop. It features a direct pin-for-pin replacement with the CD4013B, NTE4013B, ECG4013B, and others. 
The output signal can be inverted by selecting either pin 12 or 13. To make life easier, you could install a miniature on-on switch. The middle contact going to R2, and pin-12 & 13 to the other two contacts. 
Original author of the circuit diagram is Ken Hewitt. I modified it somewhat because we can't get the BUK555-60B (Q1). Ken also has a way to put the circuit on a strip-solder board.And here is your glow ignitor  Parts List:All resistors, except Rm, (metal-film recommended) 1/8 watt (1/4 watt for carbon)
& no less than 5% tolerance, unless otherwise posted. C1 = 100uF/16V Electrolytic R1 = 100 Ohm, 1/2 watt 1 red jack C2 = 10nF, ceramic R2 = 1K 1 black jack C3,C4 = 10nF, mica R3 = 1K 1 amp meter, 1 to 6-amp (dc) Q1 = TIP42C R4 = 4K7 1 knob for potentiometer Q2 = NTE123AP R5 = 750K 1 coolrib for Q1 D2 = 1N5401 Rm = .2 ohm/10W D1,D3 = 1N4002 P1 = 100K D4 = 1N4148F Here is a suggestion for a complete Power Panel IC1 = LM555A couple possible substitutes, use at your disgression, no guarantees: For Q1: TIP32C, TIP42, TIP42A (or B), NTE332, ECG332. For Q2: 2N3904, BC547, (or A or B), BC550, European TUN. For D1,3: NTE116, ECG116, try others. For D2: NTE5801, try others. For D4: NTE519, ECG519, other 1N4148x types worked also. For IC1: NE555, TLC555, MC1455, HC555, NTE955M, ECG955, etc. The NTE123A did not seem to work and is not quite the same as the 'AP' type. The 2N2222(A) did not work in the prototype and shorted out the circuit.The ECG and NTE/ECG substitutes are made by Sylvania (Philips). I build two units and both working fine.pin connections  Printed Circuit Board Component layout  [Click here] to print an original size pcb (3 x 6cm).Notes:
An on/off switch is not required for the glowplug driver since it only draws current when a glowplug is attached. As a matter of fact, the circuit is only powered (via Q1) via a connected glowplug. Just in case you were wondering how the positive (+) side of the circuit is connected. The starter motor runs directly from the flight box battery, via the jacks on the power-panel, and has it's own on/off switch. Same scenario for the fuel pump, but includes a reverse switch to pump the fuel in or out the tank/cannister.For all components, substitutes are fine. D1 and D3 are regular 1N4002 diodes. You may substitute with the 1N4001, or 1N4003. D4 (1N4148F) is an ultra-fast switching silicon diode with a 100V prv. The regular and more familiar 1N4148 seems to work also. D2 (1N5401) is a 3A/100V prv power diode.Q1 is a PNP power transistor/switch with a TO-220 case, 6A, 80/100V, 65 watts. Don't be afraid to experiment, and don't forget the coolrib on the TIP42, it may be needed. I strongly recommend a power supply if you're gonna experiment and turn up the voltage slowly while watching the ampmeter. My own experiments resulted in 3 burned out glowplugs, 2 TIPs, and 2 NTE123AP. Q2 is a NPN silicon, AF/RF Amp/Driver, transistor to drive Q1. If you substitute, stick with the 'driver' type, other may burn-out the very second you apply power. Again, try using whatever you have in your parts-box first, but try to match the current/voltage parameters as close as you can and make sure it is able to drive Q1. Whatever transistor you use for Q1 or Q2, watch the orientation of the the emitter, base and collector and don't assume it is the same as the original or as shown in the component layout. The tab for the metal case transistors (Q2) is always the emitter. Remember, Q2, as mentioned before, should be a driver-type-transistor (or close to it) in order for it to supply enough current to Q1.All this circuit does, is providing enough controlled current (via P1) to make/keep a plug glowing under various conditions. In regards to the 750K value of R5, it is fine to combine different resistors to get to that value. I used two 1M5 resistors in parallel myself. Works fine! So does 680K+6M8 (754K). 
The CMOS timer,MC1455P, can be substituted for the ordinary LM or NE555 and are pin-for-pin compatible. The CMOS version uses much less power and its operating voltage is 2 - 18 volt versus the regular 555 type 4.5 - 18volt. On the other hand, the MC1455P is not as robust as the regular 555 type. The amp meter is not mandatory, but gives you a nice visual indicator. It can easily be constructed from a salvaged panel amp meter.When a glowplug is hooked up (the plug act as an on/off switch to power the circuit), Q2 switches on and biases Q1, which in turn provides enough current, adjusted with potentiometer P1, to make the plug glow. C2, C3, & C4 are filtering capacitors while C1 keeps the voltage over the glowplug steady, like when the plug gets wet with fuel and draws more current. Diodes D1/D3 are feedback blocking diodes preventing signal feedback.CAUTION! The '-' of the glow plug jack connects to the emitter of Q1 only! |
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| JRjoe
rrElite Veteran Jonesville , IN USA #1 |
Do you really need a diagram for two wires, a battery, and a couple of alligator clips. JRjoe..... Indoor plumbing??? No, we don't need that!!! |
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| JRjoe
rrElite Veteran Jonesville , IN USA #1 |
JRjoe..... Indoor plumbing??? No, we don't need that!!! |
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 bmapope
rrVeteran TN |
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| Avropilot
rrVeteran Murfreesboro, Tennessee |
Heres what I use  |
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| Mapleleafs
rrVeteran Ontario, Canada |
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 krashtagain
rrKey Veteran ohio |
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| Mapleleafs
rrVeteran Ontario, Canada |
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| dfrazier
rrApprentice Sulphur, La |
some wire and a couple AA rechargeable batteries in parallel and a spare channel on your receiver. |
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| Mapleleafs
rrVeteran Ontario, Canada |
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| krashtagain
rrKey Veteran ohio |
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| GREYEAGLE
rrElite Veteran Flat Land's |
AVRO - That's the top of the catch ! I literially can't stop Laughing everytime I look at it !!!Must have kid;s !! Have to pick my self up off the floorHow many volt's can you get ????Best part is I have the same drill on my bench and almost the identical VM, and Nicad from a yard light !If it snows; any more I've just got to have one !!!! I'll make one - just for the guy's that never return my ignitor !!!Kick's and more kick's : THANX !!!! |
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| bmapope
rrVeteran TN |
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| az_heliguy
rrKey Veteran San Tan Valley, AZ |
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| GREYEAGLE
rrElite Veteran Flat Land's |
I'd love TOO !!! We could be related H.m I -bet he;s part glowtard Irish Like me He'res my latest IMAC - Precision Museum Scaler - all about 28Lb's of her /// With a
homye- ilite weed waker motor - My signature bird. " If you get it around the patch once" you get to sign your first name " " If you take off and land successufully -- " With or without Flaps" you get to sign your first and last "" Your also required to fish it out of the corn if it snap's in. SO far the signature are about 4 to one Still missing Nerf whistels for the wings and a police whistel I can pound into the Bennett |
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| mlucia
rrKey Veteran Essex Jct., Vermont |
All you need is this http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/...trolled_Switch_
some wire and a couple AA rechargeable batteries in parallel and a spare channel on your receiver. |
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| steve9534
rrKey Veteran yakima, wa. |
Glow ignitor I'd caution against using the Rx flight pack battery to run the glow ignitor. The glow plug draws more current than you think - somewhere between 1 and 2 amps which will quickly drain your battery and can lead to you losing control of the heli. The Rx isn't really designed to carry this kind of constant current either and may or may not be damaged. Better is to use a separate pack for the glow ignitor and no more than 2 volts max or you'll blow the plugs. The fellow who was using 4 cells must have either wired them in parallel or had leads with a lot of resistance which lowered the voltage to the plug. The switch from Hobby City is so cheap that it's hard to see a reason not to try it first. It will cost you more to buy the components individually. Hope this helps. steve. |
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| DarkSide41
rrVeteran Sylacauga Alabama USA |
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 billiano
rrVeteran Greece ,Patras |
There is also a radio controlled switch from Turnigy in HobbyCity.com for lights,horns,etc which costs 5$. The only thing its con is the fact that you will have to add an 1cell battery on-board.If that option is also not regarded then I guess you have to figure out what you really want. 1.Pay the SwitchGlo(as I did) 2.Do the MacGyver stuff 3.Short-circuit a channeland get power for glow(with danger to crash) 4.Buy the Turnigy Radio Controlled switch for 5$ and add a battery 5.Have a list of all pros and cons and get your choise.Good Luck Kasama Srimok 90N FBL TDR Rigid 90 |
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