Just like to show everyone my electric conversion.
My goal was to use the clutch and as many stock parts as possible.
I used a dremel with metal cutting disc and a hand drill to make the mount. The only special tool that I used was a press to remove the motor shaft and install the new one.
The Scorpion 4035-500 motor shaft was removed and replaced with one from a Hacker A60L that I shortened on the none threaded end and ground flat spots to match the Scorpions. This allowed the stock clutch to bolt up using the 8mm collet(used 2 washers under the collet to clear the motor bolts). Just hold the motor with a strap wrench. The prop nut I used was from a YS61, anything in a pinch!
The rest is aluminum angle and plate cut and drilled to fit. Existing holes where used, no holes where made in the frame.
I used 4S and 6S 5000mah Air Thunder bats in series as I had some left over from other projects. The 6s is on a wooden plate where the fuel tank goes and the 4s is in the front, attached with velcro to the inside of the frame. I had to remove a couple of the plastic spacers to make it fit. Using 5s bats on either side might be easier! The C of G did work out good with this set up though.
RPM is 1730, weight is 12.5lbs and it fly's nice and stable with good power. Could benifit from some new Hyperions, and a set of 720's to bring the disk loading down a bit. Getting about 9min of sport flight with these old bats. I have about 70 flights and it has been perfectly reliable. The smooth spool up with the clutch is great.
I am using 690's with 22 tooth pinion, jazz 10-32-55.
I am adding a step by step on swapping the motor shaft due to some requests. It is not hard at all, have no fear!
I should add that this was inspired by Peter Wales, thanks Peter. He used a Actro motor and drilled and tapped the end, worked great. Only problem is that I needed a method that did not require machine work!
Thanks also to Mr Mel for his excellent calculator, this stuff would not be possible with out it.
Here it goes.
-Remove clip and washer from scorpion shaft.
-Slide motor apart.
-measure the distance from the inside of the can to the c-clip grove
-I can not remember if there is a washer between the can and bearing, if there is just reinstall during reassembly
-Remove 2 set screws from motor can used to retain shaft.
Shaft is a light press fit in can. Warm the can a bit and press it out. I used a large press at work, but they say that even a drill press will work as it is not that tight.
-Now the spare shaft from a Hacker A60L is prepared.
-Shorten the non threaded end to the same lenght as the scorpion, measured from the c-clip grove. A little longer is OK, it is not critical, shorter would be a problem though!
-Grind or file a smooth the edge at a 45 degree angle, to make instalation easier.
-Set screw flats are now ground on to the Hacker shaft. They look to be 90 degrees, but are not! Use the scorpion shaft as a example.
-The Hacker shaft can now be pressed into the can. Again warm the can, also support the back side with a block of wood with a hole drilled in it just bigger that the shaft. This will prevent deforming the can end. Getting it pressed in the correct amount is a bit of trial and error (use the measurment you took earlier to get close), test fit the motor and install washer and clip from Hacker shaft(supplied with spare shaft). Mine is set up with no end play.
-At this point you basicaly have the same shaft on your Scorpion as an 8mm glow motor shaft.
-I added to the motor shaft 2 washers approx 8mm ID from the parts bin to give clearance for the motor mount (see pic)
-Now add the 8mm engine collet, fan hub(no fan
) ect., just like a glow motor installation, no need for the hex adapter either. I do use the piece that the adapter bolts to though.(see pics again)
-When tightening the prop nut hold the motor can with a strap wrench to get it tight.
Hope this helps, Jason